Out with the old, In with the new
- Thread starter hultman
- Start date
Thanks guys. I think I might go heavy on the rock and do the sand as well, both in the tank and the sump. I don't really want to keep the sump level very high, so now I'm wondering if keeping the rock under the return drip, like the bioballs would keep it healthy. Or maybe just get some small bits and lay it on the bottom.
I generally like to keep a lot of structure in a display tank, but it has always been old-school, red white and blue bleached coral structure that I would take out and clean occasionally. This system will be a different, live structure.
Also, What about UV? I've always kept a UV sterilizer in the mechanical filter circuit. Is that still a good thing? And also what about the old diatom filters? I still use them for "polishing" the water from time to time. Still a good idea? Or out-of-date?
Appreciate the input!
Jim
I generally like to keep a lot of structure in a display tank, but it has always been old-school, red white and blue bleached coral structure that I would take out and clean occasionally. This system will be a different, live structure.
Also, What about UV? I've always kept a UV sterilizer in the mechanical filter circuit. Is that still a good thing? And also what about the old diatom filters? I still use them for "polishing" the water from time to time. Still a good idea? Or out-of-date?
Appreciate the input!
Jim
There aren't really any fish that need massive amounts of rock (unless you are keeping something like mandarinfish, but even then, an established tank could still do the trick without a ton of rock). On the other hand, most, if not all need the swimming room. My advice is to go moderate in terms structure to allow for plenty of water movement and swimming room. That will be better for both the fish and the tank itself in the long run. That isn't to say you can't create nice, complex structures with less rock, because you can. It just requires a little more planning and ingenuity.
There is a lot of debate about using UV. I started a thread on it because I was interested in all the pros and cons.
If it was me, I'd keep the UV for emergencies such as QT'ing fish for new arrivals or poorlies just to help kill off any "bugs" but I wouldn't run one 24/7 (saying that, I don't even have one!!!)
HTH
If it was me, I'd keep the UV for emergencies such as QT'ing fish for new arrivals or poorlies just to help kill off any "bugs" but I wouldn't run one 24/7 (saying that, I don't even have one!!!)
HTH
Thanks for the comments.
I'm in the process of setup now, and I'm thinking about the wet/dry filter. The tank is small, only 40 gallons, so I was thinking of maybe modifying the sump. I'll probably leave some bio media, but if I create a sort of refugium, it would increase the effective size of the system and also be a better place for the skimmer.
Anyone have any design ideas or other thoughts on this?
And as long as I'm going with the live rock, I'm also thinking of eliminating the mechanical filtration entirely, as much as I love my old Ehiems. Any real downsides to this?
Appreciate the comments!
Jim
I'm in the process of setup now, and I'm thinking about the wet/dry filter. The tank is small, only 40 gallons, so I was thinking of maybe modifying the sump. I'll probably leave some bio media, but if I create a sort of refugium, it would increase the effective size of the system and also be a better place for the skimmer.
Anyone have any design ideas or other thoughts on this?
And as long as I'm going with the live rock, I'm also thinking of eliminating the mechanical filtration entirely, as much as I love my old Ehiems. Any real downsides to this?
Appreciate the comments!
Jim
Finally getting the new 40 hex running. Have had the water in and running empty for a couple weeks, and just got 50 lbs of live rock yesterday. Rock is curing in the tank and 40 lbs of live sand should be here today. Couple questions on this live rock stuff.
I cleaned it in some salt water mix before adding it to the tank. It didn't smell bad, so I assume it will cure in a couple weeks. I was told by the vendor that I should also add air stones during the curing process. I have a couple old Tetra luft pumps running now, and the tank is boiling pretty good with fine bubbles. Is this a good idea?
Also, the lighting on the tank is a USA PowerCompact Satellite, 2X40W, which was fine for FO, but will I have to upgrade the lighting to make the live rock happy? Being a hex, lighting is a pain, and about the only upgrade I can do is either MH, which I don't like, or perhaps the new CFL stuff, the SHO compact screw in bulb. Perhaps hang one of them on a pendant reflector? Maybe add another 80W? Any thoughts on this?
This is getting exciting!
I cleaned it in some salt water mix before adding it to the tank. It didn't smell bad, so I assume it will cure in a couple weeks. I was told by the vendor that I should also add air stones during the curing process. I have a couple old Tetra luft pumps running now, and the tank is boiling pretty good with fine bubbles. Is this a good idea?
Also, the lighting on the tank is a USA PowerCompact Satellite, 2X40W, which was fine for FO, but will I have to upgrade the lighting to make the live rock happy? Being a hex, lighting is a pain, and about the only upgrade I can do is either MH, which I don't like, or perhaps the new CFL stuff, the SHO compact screw in bulb. Perhaps hang one of them on a pendant reflector? Maybe add another 80W? Any thoughts on this?
This is getting exciting!
For your particular situation, a halide will be the easiest route to go in order to get the intensity you want. Depending on the depth, you'll at least want a 150w.
Have you bought a wet dry? I would suggest not buying one. Go to the pet store and buy a tank and build you own sump. I started with a wet dry, was given to me with the tank, was using bio media(balls), and constantly having problems with my nitrate levels always 80+ no matter what I did. I built my own sump using a glass tank some glass baffles and some aquarium sealant for under 100.00. Put my skimmer in the first section, overflows into second section with live rock rubble(instead of bio balls)into a deep 4+ inch sand bed section with Macro algea in there with a little clip on 10 watt full spectrum light over it, and that overflows to where the return pump and heater are.
In the main tank I have 80lbs of live rock and 80lbs of live sand.
Not that this is the best way, but after 2 weeks my nitrates have dropped to under 20 and are continuing to decline.
In the main tank I have 80lbs of live rock and 80lbs of live sand.
Not that this is the best way, but after 2 weeks my nitrates have dropped to under 20 and are continuing to decline.
Thanks for the comments. I do have a couple old wet/dry setups from previous systems, and I was thinking that I should do something with one of them like you suggest. I am running one on the new 40, and I do have it set up with the bio media, but I also have live rock rubble in the first chamber. I think I will remove the bio media.
Do you have any mechanical filtration? I used to run Ehiems and the really big old Nu Clears but I'm thinking that was overkill and I don't have any on this system so far. My wet/dry isn't a big as yours, but I was thinking of maybe one of those sock filters in the return line?
Other than that, all I'm running are the wet/dry, the skimmer and a small 8W UV.
Jim
