That's true. I don't know if you're keeping a reef or what, but 20-30 on a fish only or fowlr tank isn't all that high.
Maybe cut down on feeding a bit, and possibly get that ro water. And maybe add some macro algae somewhere...
same ol nitrate question! #@!
- Thread starter cmar
- Start date
Maybe cut down on feeding a bit, and possibly get that ro water. And maybe add some macro algae somewhere...
Using RO/DI water is preferred for water changes and topoffs. If that isn't feasible, at least make an effort to do your topoffs with RO/DI.
When you lose water to evaporation, that's all you lose. If you are adding tap water to top off, all you're really doing is concentrating the bad stuff that you don't want.
If you use tap just for water changes, you shouldn't be making the problem worse. But top offs will make it worse, if your water has impurities.
Also, if you do begin to use RO/DI, don't rush it. Going from bad water quality to good water quality can be harmful if done too quickly.
It wouldn't hurt a thing to increase the flow, either.
When you lose water to evaporation, that's all you lose. If you are adding tap water to top off, all you're really doing is concentrating the bad stuff that you don't want.
If you use tap just for water changes, you shouldn't be making the problem worse. But top offs will make it worse, if your water has impurities.
Also, if you do begin to use RO/DI, don't rush it. Going from bad water quality to good water quality can be harmful if done too quickly.
It wouldn't hurt a thing to increase the flow, either.
okay, got it! bought a new test kit, nitrates @5. i feel so relieved, but stoopid! this answers why nothing ever changed in the past few weeks! often, the best solutions are the easiest! thanks for all your help everyone!
oh yeah, i treat my water with a conditioner that removes all metals, chlorine, etc. i know it's not the best route, but so far.... and i plan on getting some sort ro/di unit when funds allow, & before i move on to corals, etc.
oh yeah, i treat my water with a conditioner that removes all metals, chlorine, etc. i know it's not the best route, but so far.... and i plan on getting some sort ro/di unit when funds allow, & before i move on to corals, etc.
Great stuff, glad we have a more accurate reading..lol...I know its hard sometimes to not be able to the best route with a fish tank, like an RO unit, but, its good that you have one planned in the near future. It will help no end with the system in the long run..
Niko
A common misconception is that water conditioners remove the impurities. The impurities are still there - they are just converted to a form that is not toxic (or less toxic).
Chloramine is one of the most common additives to tap water to prevent bacterial contamination. It is a source of chlorine that is more stable and easier to work with than other sources of chlorine. But one part of the molecule is the "amine." The water conditioner essentially "neutralizes" the amine part, but I would bet anything that it is still available to the bacteria to eventually convert to nitrate. Chloramine will not give a postive response to a nitrate test either.
It's a good idea to find out if your municipality treats the water with chlorine or chloramine, even if you aren't having a problem with nitrates now. Chloramine is much more toxic to fishes than chlorine, and certain conditioners will not treat the chloramine, only chlorine.
i use " aqua- plus", removes chlorine and chloramine, neutralizes metals. actually, our municipal water has always been rated and ranked very high for water purity & quality, but i know that that doesn't mean that it's "pure". i'm more worried about whats in my old pipes. anyway, the real lesson is when your test suddenly go goofy,and your test kits are near the end, get new test kits!
thanks again to everyone for all your help, suggestions,and solutions!
thanks again to everyone for all your help, suggestions,and solutions!
