W.T.F.!!!!!!!

[makai]

tang looked healthy as could be....

at first didn't eat anything i fed, but cleaned the back side of my tank. Once the algae was gone, like mostly seaweed mix but ocasionally would grab a few brine.

that was all within 4 days or so...lost him for a day and then he showed up the other morning, on what i call "the beach", with some serious signs of ick. Caught him...only because he wasn't moving to fast. just sitting with gills moving fast. Dipped in aquarium products "quick cure" for about 3 min and back in the tank. Dead that night.






"the beach"- the beach is located on one side of my 55g. it is a patch of bare sand about 13" x 13". Other side of tank stacked pretty high with LR gradually tapering down to the beach. total around 60 lbs.

 

[gcvt]

Well, no offense man, but problems and disease were inevitable with that fish in that size tank. I'm sorry you lost your fish! - I just didn't think it would happen that fast

Chalk it up as learning experience and move on. Best of luck.

 

[BiggerWurm]

makai,

Are your water parameters good? Probably the best thing would be to quarinteen the fish in a copper tank like KAPFishous said. I have anemones and used green x in my reef tanks with inverts. My LFS barelly keeps it in stock. Downfalls are that it can turn plastics green like silicone in the corners although mine went back to normal color with time. A few peices of gravel turned as well not much though. You must also remove carbon. It is used by my LFS i only found out about it after becoming friends with the guys that do all the work not the owner he recommended a 30 dollar worthless ich cure had deaths after using it. GreenX was like $9 it recommends to do a water change after using to get rid of extra medicine but fish are still alive and ich free. Don't get in one your bare skin has some stuff toxic to humans in the pure form. The guys told me it was what the our zoo uses they sold me. I don't beleive in uv sterilizers for a reef tank normally but the will kill ich that is water born not on fish but with the wattage and water flow correct for your tank. It can stay water born for weeks i beleive even with removal of fish. So this could and expensive fix but could be used for slim algae out breaks and ich when needed. I also agree with gcvt to small of tank for tangs to be happy and stress free. Best of luck ich is the devil

 

[latazyo]

is raising water temp not an option in marine tanks?

 

[KAPFishous]

Raising the water temp could be another option, sure... how warm is it already? I don't think you want to go too much higher than about 82 or so though.. but the temp is effective in killing the evil Ich, yes.

BTW... I used a product called "Rid-Ich" when I treated my tank... contains no copper - as far as I know anyway... all of the shrimp, crabs and the featherduster are doing great, as stated earlier. I have also added two anemones, and the tank seems perfectly happy.

There also is a product specifically made to remove copper. I am sure that is for those who have not yet added inverts to the tank prior to adding the copper treatment - but there is a product out there nonetheless... not sure of the name, and I have not used that product, but purchased it just in case I infected the tank with the Rid-Ich that I used. I can let you know a little later if interested.

Just a little additional info... hope it's helpful.

 

[redpaulhus]

Are you using a Quarantine tank ?

The life cycle for marine ich (Cryptocaryon) is about one month.
If you Q all new fish for at least one month, you shouldn't have any problems with ich.
In a tank with inverts, the best way to "cure" ich is to remove all the fish for one month or more - you may need to remove some rock in order to catch the fish - but the important part is no fish for at least one month - without a host, the parasite will die off... another good use of the hospital or "Q" tank...

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/quaranti.htm