Thanks. i suppose the next question is what lighting and CO2 systems are the best? I've looked at the Juwel Duolux for the 96l tank, and CO2 wise i've looked at the Red Sea Turbo CO2 Biosystem. What is a good light system for the 16gal (24in) (preferably one that isn't too expensive)?
What I need for a planted tank
- Thread starter momar
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If you want to you can start with low light plants under that lighting and see how it works out for you.
Yes, it is only 1 wpg, but I think Java moss and Java fern plus Anubia barteri nana and many types of small, low growing Cryptocoryne would do OK in that environment.
I would also consider dosing Seachem's Flourish Excel (a liquid carbon supplement) in place of CO2 injection. You won't need a lot of nutrients under that light and not too much carbon either.
Then, if you find that you're not getting the results you want, you can always go to higher lighting. For example, there are screw in CF bulbs available at hardware stores that are very inexpensive to put together to light a small tank. I've got a ten gallon tank with two 28 watt screw-in's over it and it does very nicely.
But it's not a necessity to have that much light, and IMO would be a better way to go initially with the lower light tank till you get your feet wet (so to speak
) in the hobby.
One other thing. Once you do start using extra nutrients, stay away from the plant tabs or any 'in substrate' fertilization. IMO, they are not necessary and can be problematic in that once they are pushed into the substrate they cannot be disturbed until they spend themselves (3 months or so). If disturbed the can/will create some of the ugliest green water you've ever seen. Especially in a newly set up tank, where plants are being moved, this can easily become an issue.
Len
Yes, it is only 1 wpg, but I think Java moss and Java fern plus Anubia barteri nana and many types of small, low growing Cryptocoryne would do OK in that environment.
I would also consider dosing Seachem's Flourish Excel (a liquid carbon supplement) in place of CO2 injection. You won't need a lot of nutrients under that light and not too much carbon either.
Then, if you find that you're not getting the results you want, you can always go to higher lighting. For example, there are screw in CF bulbs available at hardware stores that are very inexpensive to put together to light a small tank. I've got a ten gallon tank with two 28 watt screw-in's over it and it does very nicely.
But it's not a necessity to have that much light, and IMO would be a better way to go initially with the lower light tank till you get your feet wet (so to speak
) in the hobby.One other thing. Once you do start using extra nutrients, stay away from the plant tabs or any 'in substrate' fertilization. IMO, they are not necessary and can be problematic in that once they are pushed into the substrate they cannot be disturbed until they spend themselves (3 months or so). If disturbed the can/will create some of the ugliest green water you've ever seen. Especially in a newly set up tank, where plants are being moved, this can easily become an issue.
Len
Also (just thought I would jump in), if that sponge thing is a nitrate remover (dubious) then I would get rid of it. You need a nitrogen source to feed the plants and nitrate is generally it. Why remove it if you are then turning around and dosing it with ferts. 10 ppm is perfectly fine, anything under 20 ppm is generally considered safe for fish. Don't waste money on crazy filtering pads (and carbon) when you can save it to waste on other exciting things like lighting.
Lighting over 3 watts per gallon usually requires CO2.
Lighting below 3 wpg doesn't require C02.
Lighting below 3 wpg doesn't require C02.
