MM - If it is Gray BBA I kept a few links I found in searching for you earlier...Here is a good excerpt:
Black-Beard Algae (BBA), Red-Brush Algae
Brush/Red Algae ( Black-brush algae) has been known to thrive in both, acidic and alkaline waters. In hard waters it will form lime tissue (biogenic decalcification) which makes it harder to be eaten/consumed by the only algae eater known to eat this type of algae, the Siamese Algae Eater (SAE). Biogenic decalcification can be prevented by adding CO2. Healthy fast growing plants will out-compete this feathery-black algae that tends to grow on slow growing plant leaves. When buying new plants, before planting, it's good to soak them into a weak household bleach solution for two minutes. 1 part of bleach (don't use bleach that has lemon, orange or any kind of scent) to 20 parts of water. Do not forget to rinse the plants well with clean water before adding them into the aquarium. The only perfect way to combat Brush algae is planting lots of healthy fast growing plants, introducing a few SAE, maintaining CO2 at 30ppm, nitrates at 15ppm and phosphates at 0.5ppm. Leaves that are badly overtaken should be discarded.
Observations;
When I had a problem with BBA, I dosed 1ml per 50 liters of Easy Carbo (equivalent to Flourish Excell) every other day for a week. The algae turned purpleish/pinkish and disappeared. Maintaining the same CO2 levels is the best way in controling this algae.
Photo by Dusko Bojic.
- posted by Dusko Bojic @ 6:28 AM
--- FROM:
http://www.aquariumalgae.blogspot.com/
...And I'm sure you know about this one (my fav):
http://www.plantgeek.net/article_viewer.php?id=9
I too have a minor case of BBA and will be trying out the suggestions above.
- Phosphates at .5ppm
- Fast growing plants (BTW I will gladly pay shipping for some - uninfected that is!
)
- Keep nitrAtes below 15ppm
- Ordering 4 SAEs
- (I just can't do the CO2 ATM)
I will post how things go later on.