How to make your very own wet/dry, sump and DIY pvc overflow!

AnDr3w

AC Members
Apr 29, 2007
991
0
0
35
Ft. Lauderdale, Florida.
I know overflows and wet/drys are not really big on here, but I'm hoping to get this made into a sticky so it will catch on.


So here we go.


Back round:

Wet Dry (sump) System


This is really a lot simpler than it looks and works really, really well. Water is sucked from the main and then siphoned to a water reservoir (sump). A return pump keeps the water level in the sump below a set level and the incoming water from the tank is filtered by anything you choose. May it be filter socks, scrubbies, bio balls, filter floss or anything you choose. Material's like scrubbies(pot scrubbers) are designed with a huge surface area for its size and it is my home for BB.) This constitutes the bio-filtration portion of the filter. You might assume that because the sump is a lot smaller than the original tank that there wouldn’t be enough BB to properly filter the water. The truth is that the sump has a FAR greater biological capacity than the aquarium gravel bed. The huge surface area of the bio media combined with the massive amount of oxygen available in the air makes the wet/dry system the best biological filtration available. It is almost like a bio,el, but on a larger scale. There is a problem about them tho.
While a wet/dry-sump may not polish the water the way a cannister or pressure filter would, it still does a good job of cleaning the water because of the volume of water moved. This problem can be addressed with the addition of power heads. Gravel vacuuming takes care of excess food a poop build up.

These supplies are for a 10 gallon sump, so more supplies will be needed for a large sump.

So here is how to make a sump or a wet/dry out of a 10 gallon tank.
First you need a 10 gallon tank. You can remove the top trim if needed, or you don't have to. You need a large bottle of aquarium grade silicone. The one's at your LFS are a waste of money, go to Home Depot or Lowe's and get GE silicone I(one), NOT II(two). Get a caulking gun, and two 20x12" piece's of acrylic, one 10x12" piece of glass and a glass cutting kit, egg crate and 1" diametr pvc. 10 feet(also used in the overflow, so save.) I am assuming you have a drill gun, but if you don't, pick one up also.

The first thing you do is make your drill plate. I used the acrylic here, because you have to drill it, and glass at home depot is tempered. So my bio tower is around 6"x10". So cut a piece of 6x10", it should be acrylic. In the acrylic piece I drilled 60 holes, about 1/4" in diameter, every inch. Then, leave it alone for now. Then, cut 4 pieces of pvc, 2" high. Place the egg crate on that. You do not have to silicone the egg crate. What I did was use filter floss and place it in between the pvc and egg crate. I made my bio tower 7" tall, so cut a piece of glass 7.5" in length, and 10" wide. 7.5" because you need it higher then the drip plate. You may be asking why, but I made my overflow dump water directly onto the drip plate. So if the 7.5" piece of glass was not higher then the drip plate, the water would all fall off to the side, missing the bio tower. So the point of having it higher then the drip tray is to "coral" the water so it goes over the scrubbies. Silicone the glass in place now.

This is a messy example, so I re did it. But you get the jist of it.
The blue, yellow and red things are the scrubbies. I highly recomend these over bio balls. These come in 6 packs at the dollar store. I bought 3 packs, so 18 pot scrubbers.
This was the original method, my first try.

tankpix126-2.jpg

tankpix127-1.jpg


This is the right way to make it, the way I have been writing about
tankpix136-1.jpg


This shows my filter floss, my drip tray, egg crate, the 7.5" piece of glass and everything else I have stated so far.

That is the first part of making a sump.
 
Part 2:

Here is part 2 of many, many parts. The second part is more of a mechanical filtration area. It is 2 layers of sponges, with a piece of egg crate on top of it, and weights on top of that to hold it down. This piece of glass will dictate where the water level is in your sump.

Example: If your glass is 3" high, then your water level in your biological part of your sump will be 3" high as well.
tankpix148c.jpg


I cut a piece of glass 4" high, 10" wide. This glass is to make sure that the water from bio area goes over this glass to get to the pump back to the tank. So this ensures that water goes thru sponges and filter floss, to "polish" the water. So you cut your piece and silicone it in place. It is important to make sure this piece is even, so water flow doesn't favor one side.
 
Part 3:

You are now almost done with your sump. You now need to get your pump. This is second hand knowledge, but I heard Quiet One pumps work very well. I use a Penguin 660. It pumps 170 gph. So on my 29g tank it it just under 6 turn over rate. That works perfect in my sump. Sumps do not need massive water flow to be effective. 3-4 times will be sufficient if you have a normal stock list. I recomend 5-6 tho.

So anyways, now you can use soft tubing and put it on your pump. I buy the size tubing that the outlet is. Example. My penguin pump outlet is 3/8". So I bought 3/8" ID(inside diameter) tubing. To get it on, I boiled a pot of water. Then when it is boiling, stick the end of the tubing in, until it softens up and is more bendable, around 3-7 seconds. It might take a few trys to get it on, but it will work, trust me.
smile.gif


So now you suction cup your pump to the bottom of the sump. Take your soft tubing from the power head and place it in the tank. I used another suction cup here to hold it right above the tank water level. It is important to not have the tubing in the water, because if the pump goes off, it will start a reverse siphon, causing lots and lots of water into your sump, and then to the floor.:irked: So I have my tubing about 1" above my water level. Then, your sump is complete.
biggrin.gif
Let your sump dry for 48 hours, then hook it up.
 
Part 4: Over flow

The overflow:

This is made with pvc piping, and is very simple to make. It seems hard, but armed with just the knowledge of how to use a saw, I created the pvc overflow.

Well the tank I used was a 29g tank, with a 10g sump. I used 1" pvc.
tankpix150.jpg


My tank is 18 3/4" tall. So my cuts were:
1) 14"
1) 17"
2) 16"
4) 2" connector pieces
1) "T"
1) Ball valve
7) 90 degree elbows

These pieces are just for the overflow portion, not the pieces that go to the sump. Those need more pieces, not listed.
tankpix154.jpg

tankpix158.jpg

tankpix163.jpg


Can of Krylon Fusion helps the looks.
tankpix130-1.jpg

tankpix128-1.jpg

And a piece of breeder screen as a pre filter.
tankpix129-1.jpg
 
Chart:

This is a size chart that will be very useful. It can be used to determine your cuts for the overflow.

tank size...............dimensions...............size of pieces needed......
20 (high) ---------24 x 13 x 17--------------------1) 13" 1) 6" 2) 17"
20 (long)----------24 x 13 x 21--------------------1) 17" 1) 20" 2) 21"
33 (long)----------48 x 13 x 14--------------------1) 10" 1) 13" 2)14"
37----------------30 x 13 x 23--------------------1) 19" 1) 22" 2) 23"
38----------------36 x 13 x 20--------------------1)16" 1)19" 2)20"
40 (breeder)-------36 x 18 x 17--------------------1)13" 1)16" 2)17"
40 (long)----------48 x 13 x 17 -------------------same as above
45----------------36 x 13 x 24 --------------------1)20" 1)23" 2)24"
45 (long)----------48 x 13 x 19---------------------1)15" 1)18" 2)19"
50----------------37 x 19 x 20 --------------------1)16" 1)19" 2)20"
55----------------48 x 13 x 21 --------------------1)17" 1)20" 1)21"
65----------------37 x 19 x 25 --------------------1)21" 1)24" 2) 25"
75----------------48 x 19 x 22---------------------1)18" 1)21" 2)22"
80----------------73 x 14 x 21---------------------1)17" 1)20" 2)21"
90----------------49 x 19 x 26---------------------1)22" 1)25" 1)26"
100---------------73 x 19 x 20---------------------1)16" 1)19" 1)20"
120---------------49 x 25 x 26---------------------1)22" 1)25" 2)26"
125---------------73 x 19 x 24 --------------------1)20" 1)23" 2)24"
150----------------73 x 19 x 29--------------------1)25" 1)28" 2)29"
180---------------73 x 25 x 26---------------------1)22" 1)25" 2)26"
 
Nolapete: I do need to do that, your right. But it is a sump, not a fashion show. :) But still I should make it look nicer then it is. When I do scrape the excess away, I will be sure to take pix. :thumbsup:
 
wow thats pretty cool. Maybe after everything's up and running you could post a video too? I think I understand the concept but showing how it runs would help out. Also I'm sure it would be possible to connect the flow back to the main tank to an undergravel jet system instead of a normal output, right?
 
wow thats pretty cool. Maybe after everything's up and running you could post a video too? I think I understand the concept but showing how it runs would help out. Also I'm sure it would be possible to connect the flow back to the main tank to an undergravel jet system instead of a normal output, right?

I'm not totally sure about the UGJ. But I will take a video of it running.
 
So anyways, now you can use soft tubing and put it on your pump. I buy the size tubing that the outlet is. Example. My penguin pump outlet is 3/8". So I bought 3/8" ID(inside diameter) tubing. To get it on, I boiled a pot of water. Then when it is boiling, stick the end of the tubing in, until it softens up and is more bendable, around 3-7 seconds. It might take a few trys to get it on, but it will work, trust me.

I used my wife's hair dryer to soften the tubing used for mine which also worked, although I'd bet the boiling water works much quicker and will less noise. I'll definately remember that trick for my next project! :)
 
AquariaCentral.com