Given those levels, regardless of how long the tank has been running, it looks like your tank is not completely cycled. pH should be at or above 8.2 or so, and that should come up normally with water changes. What kind of salt mix are you using, what kind of test kit are you using, and what is your SG? And as far as nitrates being a result of an algae bloom...I'm not sure I understand that. Usually its the other way around; high nitrates lead to an algae bloom. I don't think algae produces nitrates, unless you use some sort of chem to kill it and it starts rotting.
I have to agree with Sploke on this one.. And while your saying your not keeping inverts alive and yes your ammonia is currently only at a .1, it could very well be the reason why you aren't keeping inverts alive. They are VERY sensitive to ammonia in a tank. And just because its reading .1 today doesn't mean it wasn't 1.0 yesterday.
Your pH should be able to be controlled through good tank maintenance. I have used either Instant Ocean or Reef Crystals for my salt and have never had an issue with pH. I do buffer calcium and magnesium in my tank because I now have corals that are using calcium in abundance along with my mangroves which are seeming to suck the magnesium out faster than I can change the water. But I test for everything I buffer.
Your nitrites and ammonia levels have to be dealt with first. fish, inverts, and corals will all suffer greatly with those levels in your tank. its absolutely toxic. I recommend a 20-30% water change to immediately cut those levels down. (using RO water of course)
that will also help to cut down on your nitrates.... those should be below 15 ppm in my opinion. Anything over that is starting to risk disaster.
as for the pH you can use a product like Kent Marine Superbuffer. I've been using this for some time now and it buffers my pH wonderfully. Read the directions and apply as needed to maintain alkalinity. Instant Ocean and Reef Crystals will not always properly maintain alkalinity or calcium, in fact they rarely do for optimal tank health.
you should also buy a test kit and test for phosphates as well as get a protein skimmer on there.
If you are getting red slime.... bottom line no matter what anyone tells you... you have a water quality issue somewhere. its just a matter of figuring out what it is.
Your nitrites and ammonia levels have to be dealt with first. fish, inverts, and corals will all suffer greatly with those levels in your tank. its absolutely toxic. I recommend a 20-30% water change to immediately cut those levels down. (using RO water of course)
that will also help to cut down on your nitrates.... those should be below 15 ppm in my opinion. Anything over that is starting to risk disaster.
as for the pH you can use a product like Kent Marine Superbuffer. I've been using this for some time now and it buffers my pH wonderfully. Read the directions and apply as needed to maintain alkalinity. Instant Ocean and Reef Crystals will not always properly maintain alkalinity or calcium, in fact they rarely do for optimal tank health.
you should also buy a test kit and test for phosphates as well as get a protein skimmer on there.
If you are getting red slime.... bottom line no matter what anyone tells you... you have a water quality issue somewhere. its just a matter of figuring out what it is.
You couldn't be more wrong. Nitrites are proven not to affect SW fish so it is recommended you don't test regularly for Nitrites. On the other hand Ammonia is harmful in SW so you will need to allow your cycle to complete.
Nitrite Aquarists' concerns about nitrite are usually imported from the freshwater hobby. Nitrite is far less toxic in seawater than in freshwater. Fish are typically able to survive in seawater with more than 100 ppm nitrite! Until future experiments show substantial nitrite toxicity to reef aquarium inhabitants, nitrite is not an important parameter for reef aquarists to monitor. Tracking nitrite in a new reef aquarium can nevertheless be instructive by showing the biochemical processes that are taking place. In most cases, I do not recommend that aquarists bother to measure nitrite in established aquaria.
You couldn't be more wrong. Nitrites are proven not to affect SW fish so it is recommended you don't test regularly for Nitrites. On the other hand Ammonia is harmful in SW so you will need to allow your cycle to complete.
Nitrites can affect your entire overall tank health. Whoever told you not to bother testing for that is wrong. nitrites at .30 are not good for any tank at any time. hehe. you should always be aware of all the elements and levels in your tank.
Regardless, we agree the ammonia must be dealt with. hehe.
Nitrites can affect your entire overall tank health. Whoever told you not to bother testing for that is wrong. nitrites at .30 are not good for any tank at any time. hehe. you should always be aware of all the elements and levels in your tank.
Regardless, we agree the ammonia must be dealt with. hehe.
ok... here's teh thing in regards to the water change comments...
I HAVE been doing DAILY water changes.... at least 2-3 gallons a shot too!
the water is supposed to be RO water from the store I buy it at.
as for the tank... its been running for SEVERAL months... WITH LR. so I don't see why it wouldn't be cycled properly.
now in regards to teh amonia... that is the level its ALWAY been at in the tank... I had the intial spike way back when I started the tank... but is always been a solid 7.5 or 8 in the tanik.
I did however go to a local LFS who reccommended a phosphate treatment of some sort.... ( I wasn't completely paying attention.. but I"m going back tomorrow for more info)
I'm also bringing him a sample of my water to test so that he can more accurately assess my tanks needs.
Hopefully he'll give me some positive information!
as well.... its a family owned store... that has been around for a while. they didn't really try and sell me on anything and gave me advice honestly.
Lets not turn this into a personal battle over an issue ppl...there is no real need for it. If you have something to say to another member, then please do this via the personal messaging system..
