Ready to throw in the towel over BBA

BBA=> too much light/too little CO2.

Very common algae because poor use of CO2 or dosing Excel is also very common.

2 x 54 W T5 lights is a lot of light really, you should have CO2 for this.

Folks that have chronic BBA and cannot get rid of it all have a CO2 problem, not adding too many ferts, too much iron or all the other claims.

Now I can induce BBA in any planted tank pretty easily.
I can also get rid of it in any tank.

Yea, yea, I've heard all this stuff a decade ago, I had the same issues and heard some of the same things and even worse. I went down one by one looking for causes carefully and isolated them. Then went back and induced the algae for verification.

There might be some interactions, say low NO3 and low CO2 etc, but as far as a single main factor, it's CO2. Stable CO2 in particular.

DIY folks run into troubles, non CO2 users are okay, low light and stable low CO2, plants adapt, but if you bob the CO2 all over or cannot add enough, then you will get BBA and likely many other algae, have trouble growing plants at a nice high level.

"Limiting" algae is not going to happen if you have plants, algae need far less and will wait till you add more and make the same mistake all over again.

Rather than worrying so much about algae, focus on the plants and see what makes them grow the best.

The Excel likely can work here, with this lighting if you add a fair amount.
I'd try and turn one bulb on for 5 hours and then the other.
that+ daily Excel dosing.
Should be fine.

Either that, or go back to CO2 gas.

As with all algae issues, trim and remove what is there now, clean and bleach any equipment, rock etc, rinse well, add dechloirnator etc, I do not ever add Excel/bleach etc to infected leaves, I always trim them off, with good reason, they will not look nice later and not add much to the growth of the plant.

Bleaching tears up plant leaves pretty bad, but just looks good for a few weeks after. Plants do better if they can grow new leaves and are given good conditions.

After this, I do a filter cleaning, good fluff of the tank to get any leftovers and water change.

Water changes, pruning and good conditions for plants.
It's not that hard if you are consistent and keep up on it.

If you do not like trimming 1-2x a week, then use slower growing plants or modify the light to reduce growth rates. Why would you make more work for yourself when there are many options?

Go back and focus on CO2 if you have BBA issues.
I've been saying this for 15 years now and I have not been wrong about it.

CO2 is not some simple thing and it's the hardest to measure well over the time that the plants need it, it can vary by huge amounts without folks realizing it.

Keep close tabs on it and watch the fish and plant's responses.
You will be rewarded in doing so.
The Nutrient part is actually pretty easy.

Hope this helps.

Regards,
Tom Barr
 
Well said.

I too have troubles w/ BBA, and it's because I am using DIY CO2 and I let it crap out before I change the mix. I hope to go pressurezed pretty soon (a few more trims & sales) and I think this will go a long way toward fixing the issue. Spiking the tank w/ Excel when the BBA starts gaining ground only helps a little and then there are the "meltable" plants to worry about...
 
BBA = Black Brush Algae
 
BBA=> too much light/too little CO2.

Very common algae because poor use of CO2 or dosing Excel is also very common.

2 x 54 W T5 lights is a lot of light really, you should have CO2 for this.

Folks that have chronic BBA and cannot get rid of it all have a CO2 problem, not adding too many ferts, too much iron or all the other claims.

Now I can induce BBA in any planted tank pretty easily.
I can also get rid of it in any tank.

Yea, yea, I've heard all this stuff a decade ago, I had the same issues and heard some of the same things and even worse. I went down one by one looking for causes carefully and isolated them. Then went back and induced the algae for verification.

There might be some interactions, say low NO3 and low CO2 etc, but as far as a single main factor, it's CO2. Stable CO2 in particular.

DIY folks run into troubles, non CO2 users are okay, low light and stable low CO2, plants adapt, but if you bob the CO2 all over or cannot add enough, then you will get BBA and likely many other algae, have trouble growing plants at a nice high level.

"Limiting" algae is not going to happen if you have plants, algae need far less and will wait till you add more and make the same mistake all over again.

Rather than worrying so much about algae, focus on the plants and see what makes them grow the best.

The Excel likely can work here, with this lighting if you add a fair amount.
I'd try and turn one bulb on for 5 hours and then the other.
that+ daily Excel dosing.
Should be fine.

Either that, or go back to CO2 gas.

As with all algae issues, trim and remove what is there now, clean and bleach any equipment, rock etc, rinse well, add dechloirnator etc, I do not ever add Excel/bleach etc to infected leaves, I always trim them off, with good reason, they will not look nice later and not add much to the growth of the plant.

Bleaching tears up plant leaves pretty bad, but just looks good for a few weeks after. Plants do better if they can grow new leaves and are given good conditions.

After this, I do a filter cleaning, good fluff of the tank to get any leftovers and water change.

Water changes, pruning and good conditions for plants.
It's not that hard if you are consistent and keep up on it.

If you do not like trimming 1-2x a week, then use slower growing plants or modify the light to reduce growth rates. Why would you make more work for yourself when there are many options?

Go back and focus on CO2 if you have BBA issues.
I've been saying this for 15 years now and I have not been wrong about it.

CO2 is not some simple thing and it's the hardest to measure well over the time that the plants need it, it can vary by huge amounts without folks realizing it.

Keep close tabs on it and watch the fish and plant's responses.
You will be rewarded in doing so.
The Nutrient part is actually pretty easy.

Hope this helps.

Regards,
Tom Barr

Tom - thanks for the very detailed thoughts. If I read you correctly, I either need to go back to adding CO2 at 2 watts/gal or drop down to 1 watt/gal with no CO2?

What are your thoughts on cutting down to ~1 watt/gal with H. polysperma?
 
Tom - thanks for the very detailed thoughts. If I read you correctly, I either need to go back to adding CO2 at 2 watts/gal or drop down to 1 watt/gal with no CO2?

What are your thoughts on cutting down to ~1 watt/gal with H. polysperma?

I run all my tanks at about 2 watts per gallon (29gal, 55gal and 75gal) well planted with no CO2 and minimal ferts. I have no bba trouble.

Q
 
If I could find someplace that has H. corymbosa again near me I would also put that back in because they are also huge nutrient sponges.

:grinyes: Hygrophila is a great choice. Crazy growth.... and a beautiful plant with bright green mint leaves under 8-10K rated lamps. All of mine have grown 7 X its original, tiny, stick size in my SE Asian biotope in ~1 month.
 
I run all my tanks at about 2 watts per gallon (29gal, 55gal and 75gal) well planted with no CO2 and minimal ferts. I have no bba trouble.

Q

Clarify the light type, T5's, PC's or regular old shop lights/T8, or T12's?

Makes a big difference and light bulbs do age and drop off depending on the type as well.

That's why I use a light meter measuring PAR. Then I know the ranges.
New tanks with PC lights at 2w/gal are not the same as a shop light over a tank. Reflectors etc can play a role.

Plant type also plays a role, some are okay, some will not be, you certainly cannot grow 50+ species well in this tank vs a CO2 enriched tank nor as fast and thick.

But that's why folks add CO2, to grow things faster, then they cannot keep up, then then then...........

I like no CO2 methods, they rarely have issues and less work.

SAE's are good for mild cases or in a non CO2 tank if it appears.
Either learn to use the CO2 well, or go non CO2 and keep the light and fish load in mind when you go the non CO2 route.
It does not imply you just stop adding CO2 and keep everything else the same, many seem to think so, look into non CO2 more if interested and use google search etc

Regards,
Tom Barr
 
Clarify the light type, T5's, PC's or regular old shop lights/T8, or T12's?

Makes a big difference and light bulbs do age and drop off depending on the type as well.

That's why I use a light meter measuring PAR. Then I know the ranges.
New tanks with PC lights at 2w/gal are not the same as a shop light over a tank. Reflectors etc can play a role.

Plant type also plays a role, some are okay, some will not be, you certainly cannot grow 50+ species well in this tank vs a CO2 enriched tank nor as fast and thick.

But that's why folks add CO2, to grow things faster, then they cannot keep up, then then then...........

I like no CO2 methods, they rarely have issues and less work.

SAE's are good for mild cases or in a non CO2 tank if it appears.
Either learn to use the CO2 well, or go non CO2 and keep the light and fish load in mind when you go the non CO2 route.
It does not imply you just stop adding CO2 and keep everything else the same, many seem to think so, look into non CO2 more if interested and use google search etc

Regards,
Tom Barr

I use shoplight fixtures with/T8 full spectrum bulbs and one tank with CF full spectrum bulbs. Not many people have a meter to find out for sure what they have for light output over their tanks. That's why I say "about" 2 watts per gallon. This is yet another variable that makes it difficult to understand what's going wrong with any particular tank.

I would hope that anyone who decides to go with 2 watts or less does enough research to understand the plant choices for this amount of light are limited. I grow 9 different plants in my tanks right now but 3 are different crypts. Some grow better that others. Some grew well and died. Some died back and then took off. Some hardly grow at all. Much of this could have been caused by my tanks changing needs while I did little to adapt to those needs.

It's a good thing I'm not a perfectionist or I might have given up on live plants long ago.

Q
 
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