Life after the crash

chumit

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Sep 25, 2008
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*Since my tank crashed this past Aug,2008, I have started over again, rinsing off the life rocks, about 100 lbs. and keeping the same sand bed, about 3 to 4 inches deep. The tank is 65 gal. salt. It is two feet high, three feet across the front and one and a half feet deep. It is located in the corner of the living room, beside the entrance to the garage. Every one in our family enters through the garage, so there is some movement going past it. The fish don't seem to mind the movement, and it keeps the tank under frequent observation, so if something goes wrong, it is quickly detected. Like the day of the heatwave when upon arriving home from being out all day, my 12 year old son asks, "Mommy why are those corals leaning down like they are dying?" :eek: :eek: :eek:

*I have dual day lights and dual actinic lights, the florescent type, 65 watts each. They sit on top of the tank, about 3 inches from the water surface. There is a plastic cover on the light fixture which I have to clean off frequently as the salt accumulates on it. I have two fluval canister filters, one is series 405 and the other is 304. My tank did not need much cycling as I used the same live sand bed that I had from my previous crashed tank. I also put all my live rock back in after rinsing it off.

*I use several additives once a week, namely all Kent marine products which are coral vite, essential elements, calcium and strontium and Molybdenum. I clean the filter system about once every 3 weeks, as it does not get very dirty, as I do not overfeed. There are prefilters on the three power heads and I do clean them more often, like once a week. The glass also gets cleaned at least once a week, as it is in a very public spot, so I try to keep it looking nice. I do water changes of 5 gal. about once every two weeks. My water source is from our well. We do have a filter on the line, which has a cartridge that gets changed every three months.

*The corals are ones that survived the previous tank crash, caused by a heat wave which left the water at 90 degrees for two days, while I didn't notice. The corals must have been the hardy ones, to survive all the poisons that were floating around in the crashed tank after all the corals started to die. I have yellow zoanthids, brownish mushroom anemones, about 10 discs, and one tiny Kenya tree coral. I have bought one hairy mushroom anemone since the crash which is surviving nicely.

*Since all the fish died in the previous crash, I have added only two tangs, one naso tang, one yellow tang, and 3 blue chromis. Also one big blue legged hermit crab and 3 feather dusters survived the crash.

*What I can not provide you with is the measurements for ammonia, nitrate, phospate, or calcium. I take water to the pet store from time to time to get it tested. They just tell me if its "okay" or not. The temp is about 80, and the specific gravity is usually around 1.023. The question I have is what testing kit should I use, since I want to start doing my own testing. I need the cheapest, fastest, simplest kind. Any suggestions?

*Also I feed the tangs and chromis flakes, called Spirulina Plus, frozen brine, and Romaine lettuce, previous frozen to break down the cellulose. I add Kent marine ZooPlex, PytoPlex, ZooMax, about every 4 - 5 days for the filter feeders. Is this a varied enough diet? Any other suggestions here?Thanks for listening...and for all those who give feedback.:bowing:
 
*Since my tank crashed this past Aug,2008, I have started over again, rinsing off the life rocks, about 100 lbs. and keeping the same sand bed, about 3 to 4 inches deep. The tank is 65 gal. salt. It is two feet high, three feet across the front and one and a half feet deep. It is located in the corner of the living room, beside the entrance to the garage. Every one in our family enters through the garage, so there is some movement going past it. The fish don't seem to mind the movement, and it keeps the tank under frequent observation, so if something goes wrong, it is quickly detected. Like the day of the heatwave when upon arriving home from being out all day, my 12 year old son asks, "Mommy why are those corals leaning down like they are dying?" :eek: :eek: :eek:

*I have dual day lights and dual actinic lights, the florescent type, 65 watts each. They sit on top of the tank, about 3 inches from the water surface. There is a plastic cover on the light fixture which I have to clean off frequently as the salt accumulates on it. I have two fluval canister filters, one is series 405 and the other is 304. My tank did not need much cycling as I used the same live sand bed that I had from my previous crashed tank. I also put all my live rock back in after rinsing it off.

*I use several additives once a week, namely all Kent marine products which are coral vite, essential elements, calcium and strontium and Molybdenum. I clean the filter system about once every 3 weeks, as it does not get very dirty, as I do not overfeed. There are prefilters on the three power heads and I do clean them more often, like once a week. The glass also gets cleaned at least once a week, as it is in a very public spot, so I try to keep it looking nice. I do water changes of 5 gal. about once every two weeks. My water source is from our well. We do have a filter on the line, which has a cartridge that gets changed every three months.

*The corals are ones that survived the previous tank crash, caused by a heat wave which left the water at 90 degrees for two days, while I didn't notice. The corals must have been the hardy ones, to survive all the poisons that were floating around in the crashed tank after all the corals started to die. I have yellow zoanthids, brownish mushroom anemones, about 10 discs, and one tiny Kenya tree coral. I have bought one hairy mushroom anemone since the crash which is surviving nicely.

*Since all the fish died in the previous crash, I have added only two tangs, one naso tang, one yellow tang, and 3 blue chromis. Also one big blue legged hermit crab and 3 feather dusters survived the crash.

*What I can not provide you with is the measurements for ammonia, nitrate, phospate, or calcium. I take water to the pet store from time to time to get it tested. They just tell me if its "okay" or not. The temp is about 80, and the specific gravity is usually around 1.023. The question I have is what testing kit should I use, since I want to start doing my own testing. I need the cheapest, fastest, simplest kind. Any suggestions?

API makes a good starter master test kit! It will test ph, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and then you would need alkilinity and calcium to add to that.

*Also I feed the tangs and chromis flakes, called Spirulina Plus, frozen brine, and Romaine lettuce, previous frozen to break down the cellulose. I add Kent marine ZooPlex, PytoPlex, ZooMax, about every 4 - 5 days for the filter feeders. Is this a varied enough diet? Any other suggestions here?Thanks for listening...and for all those who give feedback.:bowing:
I personally would not feed my fish lettuce of any kind. Every thing else is ok, however Insted of the lettuce, I would add dried algae to the mix. You can buy it at the pet store, or find a good sushi supply place and use nori instead.
Comments in red
 
Thanks brackeeper75

I am going to go really slow at starting up this tank as I felt the crunch financially when I lost about $1000 dollars worth in the crash. I feel the need to have better husbandry, and really watch out for the little guys, not taking too many chances on buying specimens that are high maintenance. I used the dried algae for a long spined black sea urchin that I use to have. So I will get some.
I am not familiar with the API test kit. What does API stand for? Do you know a site on line where I could purchase it?
Thanks agiain for your help!!:thm:
 
My assumption is that you would have quite a bit of minerals in your water - my old well used to. I bought an under the sink RO unit with a storage tank and extra faucet for $105 from filter directs ebay store. A small investment if you have had two crashes - assuming that the filter you mentioned is just a sediment filter and not RO.

Also why are you adding all those additives? I add calcium, but I always test my water first to make sure it needs it. I believe most people would tell you to never add any additives to you water unless you can test it and know your water needs it. I can't help you on what brand of test kit gives the most accurate readings - I just bought mine from marine depot out of the catalog. Call marine depot or foster & smith and ask for their suggestions.

Sorry for the heartache!
 
My assumption is that you would have quite a bit of minerals in your water - my old well used to. I bought an under the sink RO unit with a storage tank and extra faucet for $105 from filter directs ebay store. A small investment if you have had two crashes - assuming that the filter you mentioned is just a sediment filter and not RO.

Also why are you adding all those additives? I add calcium, but I always test my water first to make sure it needs it. I believe most people would tell you to never add any additives to you water unless you can test it and know your water needs it. I can't help you on what brand of test kit gives the most accurate readings - I just bought mine from marine depot out of the catalog. Call marine depot or foster & smith and ask for their suggestions.

Sorry for the heartache!

All I add for additives is ocean's blend, great no fuss no mess product!!!

http://www.aloha-aquariums.com/servlet/the-1962/API-Saltwater-Master-Test/Detail
 
You are right, gangstarfish... that's what I get for taking the advice of the sale associate without doing the research first. The fish store was having a phenomenal sale on all the fish, and the naso tank was the biggest deal, I got him super cheap like 24 dollars and he was already 6 inches long. The salesmen said he would not get any bigger. I got home to read that they get 17 inches long and need 260 gal. I am not smiling. Thanks for the admonition, I am trying to find someone locally who will do a swap with me or buy him from me for $40.
 
If a majority of your corals are the hardier softies (I think I saw you mention kenya trees and mushrooms), I'd quit using the additives. Also, unless you have SPS corals, I'd LOWER your salinity as much as you can get away with. All the better LFS I know have advised me of the same - your FISH will be more resistant to infections and illness in water with a lower SG. Think less technology, more biology when it comes to your reef keeping when possible - I saw that somewhere and it has been the coolest, most handy and true phrase uttered when it comes to reef keeping.

Let me help you get rid of that Naso... get on reefcentral.com's forums and have find (or have someone there point you to) the local reef club forums for your area - and find a fellow reef keeper who had a tank big enough for you Naso.
Oh also, ditto on the drsfosterandsmith.com suggestion. I'd love to work for those folks - that's how GREAT their customer service is!
 
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