Feeling like a complete failure...water test results

So its possible that my tank was cycled then before I moved the hornwort? That would make me feel so much better!

I think that's probably wishful thinking, lorindaleigh. It's quite possible that your tank has never cycled completely. You have no idea what your real test results have been because you thought the test strips were accurate.. which they're not. It's probably come real close to making it through the latter stages of your full cycle several times, but then something happened that killed off the progress you'd made, which put you right back to an earlier stage again... without even knowing it. None of the test reading results you taken until getting that new liquid test kit were reliable. So... when you thought it was safe enough, you've added a full stock of fish now that's producing a bioload on a continual basis that only a fully cycled tank can process. That alone will through the balance off.

If your tank was truly cycled, then wiping out a tiny percentage of bacteria when you clean a filter, or vacuum the gravel, or remove a flaoting plant is not going to jack up your ammonia levels. A real cycled tank will take such minor setbacks like those in stride.. with no measurable ammonia peak whatsoever.

The real problem now is you need to let the cycle (or mini-cycle) actually finish its course in a tank that's stocked full of fish already. That's a very difficult way to do this... you can expect to see very unpredictable test results because so much is off balance (but this time, they'll be accurate)... and it's going to take an real long time for everything to stablize.

Let the test kit results tell you now based on actual ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate readings when a water change becomes necessary to protect your livestock. You'll be changing a lot of water because of all those fish, believe me. Yes, you are overfeeding. And what's worse is that food is being left to decay and continue to foul this water (adding even more to the bioload) for a real long time. You don't need to throw in some food and let it sit there for 8-12 hours. Do some target feeding and anything left over that they didn't eat within 15-20 minutes gets removed then. Don't stop rinsing the goop from your filter or gravel vaccing it up from under the substrate. The less excess waste that stays in the tank for long periods reduces all the gunk the bacteria needs to convert.
 
But you still have to combat the columnaris... If the situation is not dire, you can use the sick neon to test the meds and see the results before adding to the mail tank. Quick Cure is one drop per gallon.
Im going to move my apple snail so I don't have to worry about the meds hurting her. I still have to worry about the frogs though. I can not find a site that lists frog safe meds.
 
I think that's probably wishful thinking, lorindaleigh. It's quite possible that your tank has never cycled completely. You have no idea what your real test results have been because you thought the test strips were accurate.. which they're not. It's probably come real close to making it through the latter stages of your full cycle several times, but then something happened that killed off the progress you'd made, which put you right back to an earlier stage again... without even knowing it. None of the test reading results you taken until getting that new liquid test kit were reliable. So... when you thought it was safe enough, you've added a full stock of fish now that's producing a bioload on a continual basis that only a fully cycled tank can process. That alone will through the balance off.

If your tank was truly cycled, then wiping out a tiny percentage of bacteria when you clean a filter, or vacuum the gravel, or remove a flaoting plant is not going to jack up your ammonia levels. A real cycled tank will take such minor setbacks like those in stride.. with no measurable ammonia peak whatsoever.

The real problem now is you need to let the cycle (or mini-cycle) actually finish its course in a tank that's stocked full of fish already. That's a very difficult way to do this... you can expect to see very unpredictable test results because so much is off balance (but this time, they'll be accurate)... and it's going to take an real long time for everything to stablize.

Let the test kit results tell you now based on actual ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate readings when a water change becomes necessary to protect your livestock. You'll be changing a lot of water because of all those fish, believe me. Yes, you are overfeeding. And what's worse is that food is being left to decay and continue to foul this water (adding even more to the bioload) for a real long time. You don't need to throw in some food and let it sit there for 8-12 hours. Do some target feeding and anything left over that they didn't eat within 15-20 minutes gets removed then. Don't stop rinsing the goop from your filter or gravel vaccing it up from under the substrate. The less excess waste that stays in the tank for long periods reduces all the gunk the bacteria needs to convert.
Thanks :) I completed understand everything that you said but I don't think Im over feeding. I only feed once a day, rarely is it twice and its always a pinch of whatever type of food I feed that day. The food for the adf's has to sit there for awhile because they are slow eaters and they hunt for it. I put it in their little corner of the tank but they still hunt for it in that area. 8 to 12 hours is still probably too long but I can't just leave the adf's food in there for 20 minutes. I f I feed with blood worms, I feed 3 for each one (I dont know if thats too much or not), when its live worms I feed them one worm chopped up. These are small size worms. I pick out the big ones and put them outside when we buy the worms. The big ones are too fat for them to get in their mouths. I can hand feed 2 of them, 1 still won't come near my fingers. They do eat better when I let them hunt for it as well. I'm going to cut it all the way down to 60 to 90 minutes as see how they do. Almost all of its gone within the first 30 minutes anyways.
 
Shawnhu has given you some great advice. That size filter may have trouble keeping up with the load in that tank, especially that common pleco. And with you rinsing the cartridge every week, you're knocking off too much bacteria. If you cut down on the feeding you'll find your cartridge won't need to be rinsed every week. You are definitely overfeeding.....3-4 algae wafers at night is a HUGE amount of food for the snail and pleco. They can't possibly eat it fast enough to avoid bits of it getting stuck everywhere in that tank. Good that you're doing frequent water changes and gravel vacs so often, but it's still not enough to compensate for the overload of food every night. I think you're tank may have cycled, you're not showing nitrites, the ammonia is coming from the overfeeding and the filter not being able to handle the combo of heavy food/fish load. Your nitrates would probably be really high if you skipped a water change or two and the fish wouldn't be happy about that either. Don't stop frequent water changing until you get a better handle on feeding them less.......no more than 1 wafer.
 
Todays results are worse:

ph-7.2
ammonia-1
nitrite-0
nitrate-10
 
looks like ammonia spike.
50%+ water change (without gravel cleaning) and fastening for today may help.

If you follow the standard flake feeding method (feeding flake for 3-5 min), it would be too much.
Molly, platy and tetra are active eaters. So, 30sec-1min flake feeding will be more than enough.


Todays results are worse:

ph-7.2
ammonia-1
nitrite-0
nitrate-10
 
did anyone consider the possibility that the tank IS cycled (hence the 0 nitrite) and just had a high ammonia level due to overstocking/overfeeding?

also.. NEVER clean your filter unless it is clogged-- this is killing your bacteria

if you feel the need to do excessive gravel vacs that is fine.. but make sure you are treating the water to avoid bacteria killing chlorine.
 
looks like ammonia spike.
50%+ water change (without gravel cleaning) and fastening for today may help.

If you follow the standard flake feeding method (feeding flake for 3-5 min), it would be too much.
Molly, platy and tetra are active eaters. So, 30sec-1min flake feeding will be more than enough.
I've been doing 2 minutes on the flakes, which is usually about a pinch full. I will reduce that in half. Thanks!
 
did anyone consider the possibility that the tank IS cycled (hence the 0 nitrite) and just had a high ammonia level due to overstocking/overfeeding?

also.. NEVER clean your filter unless it is clogged-- this is killing your bacteria

if you feel the need to do excessive gravel vacs that is fine.. but make sure you are treating the water to avoid bacteria killing chlorine.

I think I over declorinate. I went through a whole 100 ml of seachem prime in 2 weeks time.

So if my tank is cycled, how long will it take for the ammonia to get to 0? I removed my apple snail to another tank to cut down on the stock and I;m thinking of moving my 3 adfs. The problem is that I would like to keep them together and I only have 3 gallon tanks besides my 20. Both 3 gallons are for my betta. I may try to buy another mini tank this week.
 
did anyone consider the possibility that the tank IS cycled (hence the 0 nitrite) and just had a high ammonia level due to overstocking/overfeeding?

I think you're tank may have cycled, you're not showing nitrites, the ammonia is coming from the overfeeding and the filter not being able to handle the combo of heavy food/fish load.

I thought the same thing 7itanium.

lorindaleigh - you have to get that ammonia down as soon as possible. You should be doing a large water change now and if there are food particles leftover at this point, I say you need to vac that gravel today too. Do not feed anybody for at least today. Try to give that filter a chance to work better on the ammonia. Do a retest of your water after the water change and post what the result is please. I know you're stressing about this but we'll help you through this best we can.
 
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