Preassurized CO2 Dump

Bansart

Bansart

AC Members
Feb 26, 2008
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Los Angeles
Real Name
Ivan
Hello everyone,

I have been reading alot about Preassurized CO2 and I have been planning on getting one and get rid of the old arrowhead bottle full of sugar and yeast.

I know a CO2 dump is when all the CO2 gets discharged into your tank, but what causes it.. low preassure? the regulator? a cheap needle valve?...

I am currently on research stage, Im thinking of either buying a JBJ combo or DIY making my own with high quality parts.

Thank you for any comments, suggestions, and if any one can shed light on what causes CO2 dumping.
 
I've had some of those, lucky to not have my fish killed in it.
From those, I'd confirm Ozymandias' comment. Low pressure, but I use dual stage regulators and they still occur. The only safe way I can imagine there is to have a Ph-Controlled solenoid-valve on your regulator. Shutting it down when anyhing happens.

The other thing is to run your tanks only above X-amount of pressure and not being the 'cheap-skate' pulling the last grams of CO2 out of your bottle, but that would of course run you higher on your bills.
 
Luc said:
I've had some of those, lucky to not have my fish killed in it.
From those, I'd confirm Ozymandias' comment. Low pressure, but I use dual stage regulators and they still occur. The only safe way I can imagine there is to have a Ph-Controlled solenoid-valve on your regulator. Shutting it down when anyhing happens.

The other thing is to run your tanks only above X-amount of pressure and not being the 'cheap-skate' pulling the last grams of CO2 out of your bottle, but that would of course run you higher on your bills.
Click to expand...

technically it wouldnt be any more expensive...you arent USING more Co2.. just filling it up more frequently and never having to fill all the way (because its already half full)

same price... but a bit more inconvenience
 
7itanium said:
technically it wouldnt be any more expensive...you arent USING more Co2.. just filling it up more frequently and never having to fill all the way (because its already half full)

same price... but a bit more inconvenience
Click to expand...

...what? It IS more expensive. No matter how much CO2 you have left in the cylinder, most places will vent your existing cylinder before doing a fresh fill. Even if they don't, they'll charge you the $15-20 to fill your 10# tank no matter how much is left in it.

To the OP: Use a good quality needle valve to help prevent EOTD.
 
ic. yeah ive been reading online and found that the only preventative method is to get an awesome needle valve and two stage regulator. I dont want to get off topic but wanted to ask

what do you guys think of the electronic regulator by Aquariumplants.com? has anyone been using it awhile now? any problems?

I found some info online but not as much info as I wanted so thought Id ask here.
someone else adviced me to stick to good old fashion needle valve regulators. any comments is appreciated. :)
 
The pressure in a CO2 tank does not indicate how much gas is left at all. It indicates the room temperature. The tank is full of liquid CO2 that evaporates to feed the regulator. If the room is colder, the pressure is lower. When the liquid is gone, the pressure will go from looking like a full tank to empty in almost no time compared to the amount you used before that pressure started moving. If the tank is lasting 6 months, the pressure only drops the last day or so. Get a good regulator unless you feel very ready to constantly check the pressure like some crazed person. A way to constantly check the fill is by putting it on a scale. You know it will run out when it weighs about 10 pounds less than when it was first filled.
 
thanks oldman47, Yeah this is now kinda confusing me cause someone else (not here) told me that Room temperature does not affect Preassurized CO2 sytem only DIY. hmmm.... :confused:
 
Oldman said it best.

Tank pressure will stay at ~960psig until you run out of liquid co2. At this point, the upstream pressure(the pressure of the tank) is flucuating so quickly(as it decreases) that a single stage regulator can't reliably control the discharge of gas.

As mentioned, a high quality needle valve can control this, as well as a pH controller, or a two stage regulator.

Personally, I use the pH controller.

Alternatively, you can monitor cylinder pressure, and when you see it go below 700 psig, take it in for a refill.
 
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