u.v. sterilizer and water evaperation

Dis information...

Tell me what I said that isnt true?? It should be noted that these tomites will only survive for 48 hours, if they do not find a fish to attach to. These tomites will also attach to plants, filter material, etc. So if you move a plant from an infected tank into a clean tank, you have just infected the clean tank with ich. Depending on the water temperature, the whole cycle can take from 4 days to several weeks.

UV sterilization will not cure infected fish of bacterial or fungal diseases.

Tell me what I said is wrong? I dont see what I said to be wrong information. A uv Sterilzer will not cure the ich and get rid of it.

Is everyone always so nice on this board?

First, I am nice; I didn't accuse you of being a fool, or an idiot. I only accused you of disinformation, involving ICK--let's hold the conversation to that--don't introduce other biological, bacterial, fungal or virus diseases into this discussion (although, it is my firm suspicion that some nematodes can be controlled/cured with UV, and have a life cycle somewhat similar to ICK, but that is for a later date)--and I have given you the benefit of the doubt; you are not a liar in my humble opinion, you have been given disinformation yourself--you, unwittingly, spread it while being of good intentions, it is a simple mistake. You have done nothing I have not done before ... all this is quite easy for me to see, and firmly believe.

Now, as to the length of the life cycle, this is highly variable and seems governed, to a LARGE degree, by temperature. (pun intended) Scientists signing doctorates behind their name have documented this. I have seen some claim it can be as short as 4 days, and complete all 4 stages--although I find this "hard to swallow", I have no proof to the contrary. I think we can safely assume (check the net if you like) that the life cycle, probably completes all 4 stages in somewhere around 9 days, or so, in our warm (~78 degrees?) freshwater aquariums; please, correct me if I am way off base here. So, I am suggesting you run UV on such an a aquarium for 30 days and find out, that should easily cover 2 life cycles.

Now, after that relative short period (actually, it should take far shorter than that), you will know if you wish to come back and inform me of my disinformation. Or worse, accuse me of being a fool or a liar ... ?

Regards,
TA
 
Ick is a protazoan and protazoa can stay in a dormant state for a substantial amount of time when in their "egg" form only to revive when the right conditions are met.
 
Ick is a protazoan and protazoa can stay in a dormant state for a substantial amount of time when in their "egg" form only to revive when the right conditions are met.

Uh yeah; read the previous posts, that is acknowledged, if you are talking months or years, show me a scientist with a doctorate on their name who has verified that; perhaps research by an accredited university? A micrograph, or series of micrographs, of ICK existing in such a state for the claimed period of time? Documented with temps? (I mean, perhaps they can go for months/years, if frozen, or at arctic temps!)

Regards,
TA
 
I would like a reference to this. you cannot generalize a species lifecycle just because it is part of the phylum. (do you know how large that phylum is)
 
...and I never heard of such a generalization before.
Thats like saying...turtles can only live for 10 years (bogus number) because other reptiles live that long (bogus fact)
 
...and I never heard of such a generalization before.
Thats like saying...turtles can only live for 10 years (bogus number) because other reptiles live that long (bogus fact)

To "answer" both of your statements, no, such would be idiotic!

But, so would it be idiotic to tell a person that ICK is breaking all the rules learned in Biology 101, and NOT offer proof!

I mean, I am open to the presence of alien visitations, abductions, implants, but darn, I just wanna see better proof than I have seen so far ...

Cool, unfavorable conditions, etc. can slow/delay these life cycles ... like I said, one research paper, lecture, documentation offered from any credible source, to back up these "magic powers" which are claimed to be demonstrated by ICK, would lead me away from conclusions I have drawn from my own studies. I simple need to see them ...

Anyway, you really need to focus on the original beginning of this whole thread, whether UV is an effective treatment of ICK--what I said stands--disinformation has misinformed many ... UV KILLS ICK, I RUN UV ON ALL MY TANKS 24/7, IT WORKS.

Anyone here can do a simple experiment to prove me right, or wrong. Instead, some just wish to obfuscate the point with text. Really strange. They must be thinking people here will not open their eyes, try the experiment, and experience the results--I am betting on it! Some will find out for themselves, and worse, will report their results!

Regards,
TA
 
The UV will only kill the mobile life stage of the parasite, and at that, only the individuals that pass through the UV filter. I won't argue that a UV unit will kill every individual parasite you can get to flow through the unit...but how do you guarantee 100% of the parasites do?
 
The UV will only kill the mobile life stage of the parasite, and at that, only the individuals that pass through the UV filter. I won't argue that a UV unit will kill every individual parasite you can get to flow through the unit...but how do you guarantee 100% of the parasites do?

Now, those are excellent questions! You have good analytic abilities! Please, in any of my posts, on any threads I post on, toss your "two cents" out there; we will ALL benefit.

Now, you are correct, there is actually only ONE mobile life stage. The Tomite stage. This IS ABSOLUTELY the best time to attack the organism! There is also the stage where the ICK "detaches from the fish, and heads for the gravel", I believe that stage may also be vulnerable to UV.

However, I digress, the Tomite stage, alone, is good enough. Now, obviously, you can NOT guarantee that the Tomite(s) in question WILL pass the UV bulb before they attach to the fish, but, you CAN get a WHOLE BUNCH OF 'EM--with high UV and good flow rate (say, the gallons passing through the UV is 2x to 3x the size of the aquarium AND UV is 1/2 watt or higher, based on aquarium size.) Now, how does that answer your question? Simple, the law of possibilities and statistics simply will guarantee fewer and fewer ICK will be successful, statistic wise, at escaping the UV--eventually, over time, virtually NONE will be left. Couple that up with water changes, and others "natural" stress-ers from normal aquarium maintenance, you end up with NO ICK!

In summary, the UV unit, passing enough water though it, to where the aquarium water passes through the unit 2 or higher times per hour, for days, eventually, by the laws of probabilities and statistics, eventually has to get all the ICK. The ICK organisms who can successfully defeat/break the law of statistics and probabilities, will eventually, NOT be that lucky. As, in the next cycle, they are forced to "run that gauntlet again!"

Now, that is kinda obfuscated, can I reword any of that to make it clearer? (that is only my first try! <grin>)

Regards,
TA
 
Last edited:
I can think of one way, possibly, to add clarity to my text, above.

Just consider the state when cyst "transforms" to Tomite, hatches, if you will. It, the Tomite, must now depend upon aquairum currents AND the law of probability and statistics to "find a fish" (bump into them, actually) to attach to; and, yet, this seems to work EXTREMELY well for the ICK ... indeed, unhindered, such an infection can wipe out a tank, the laws of chance work extremely well, apparently, for the ICK.

When you analyze that side-by-side against the high powered UV using those same laws, with good flow rate, I can easily see ICK loosing that battle! Kinda like a race between a tortoise and a hare, actually!

Regards,
TA
 
uvc... the bringer of death and/or blindness to all who face it prevails once again!

i'm right with you on this one tech... been there, done that myself... 50 gallons, 15 watts... slow the flow and good to go! it's exposure time and distance from the bulb that counts.

EDIT: i guess i should add to the original question since i have one too. they can get pretty hot. check your tank temps after adding one for a couple days. if your temp goes up you're sure to evaporate more.
 
AquariaCentral.com