u.v. sterilizer and water evaperation

uvc... the bringer of death and/or blindness to all who face it prevails once again!

i'm right with you on this one tech... been there, done that myself... 50 gallons, 15 watts... slow the flow and good to go! it's exposure time and distance from the bulb that counts.

EDIT: i guess i should add to the original question since i have one too. they can get pretty hot. check your tank temps after adding one for a couple days. if your temp goes up you're sure to evaporate more.

Thanks for the thumbs up dude! I encourage input on this, from those who have actually ran/run UV--even if your results have-been/are negative. The more the merrier! Let's put the disinformation straight, once and for all!

15 watts on a 50 is a bit low. However, I'd still say the flow rate can be 50gph or even a bit higher though that UV unit.

I have found this, the Tomite stage lasts long enough, and most Tomites need long enough to "find" a host, that if the UV does not get 'em the first time, it will the second, or third.

This is only a bit less than 1/3w per gallon, this is lower wattage than I run on any of my tanks. It might take a few days longer than the higher wattage to be as "ICK effective", but ran 24/7 for long enough, I believe it good at being effective against ICK. Certainly, in a warm tanks, within days, you should notice a DRAMATIC decline on attached ICK, a couple of days longer, perhaps no ICK, etc.

I am super glad you documented that the lower wattage is effective. At the time I was running 1/3w and lower, I was not using the UV to fight ICK, only algae. Back then, I didn't even notice if was being effective or not on any of my tanks for ICK--just didn't expect that bonus! And, it was too long ago.

Glad you like/love UV as much as myself! BIG, OORAH!

Regards,
TA
 
You really need to knock off with the disinformation!

Yes, UV will ABSOLUTELY kill ICK.

ICK cannot cyst into a dormant state forever in your gravel, in a wet/warm/safe environment the ICK life cycle does NOT "freeze in place" or go into suspended animation. It will eventually have to go to the free swimming stage to infect/attach to your fish. If it fails to do so, it will die from lack of food/nutrition. Logic will simply provide you with the truth here, well, logic and having taken Biology 101.

You must run the UV, CONSTANTLY, though AT LEAST one whole/complete lifecycle of the ICK to kill/remove it, minimum. Personally, I would exceed that time period by a factor of two--just for my own piece of mind. And, in reality, I run UV on ALL my tanks 24/7. I have not seen a case of ICK since doing so.

Now, all that said, it IS possible for the ICK to go into some suspended state somewhere, in the tank, possibly. Such as above the water line in a relative dry environment, in a crack in such a place, etc. So, it is quite possible the ICK may return at some later date. IF THERE IS NO UV RUNNING. If it does, guess what, turn the UV back on, duh!

If you doubt me, there is a relatively easy test, to test and find the truth for yourself--simply run the UV 24/7 for a month. See if there is any ICK on your fish after just a few days--end of story ...

Regards,
J
t




than you, my fish were seriouly ill. but when i put the uv on within a few days they were looking great and i run it 24 7 it is also keeping my water clear. it does kill parasites and ich
and algea blooms. thus i know by experience
 
Just to be clear. Im not trying to go back and forth with anyone on this subject. Just trying to learn more with the info everyone is providing and what I have found from others trying this method with the UV.

you would need a strong UV lamp and flow. Exposure needed to kill ich is 336,000 uWscm^-2. Thats a higher exposure needed than just about any other microorganism for effective UV sterilization.

Then this....
What can I kill with a UV sterilizer?
UV sterilizers will destroy parasites such as Ich during the new born, free swimming life cycle stage.
NOTE: They do not kill or remove the Ich parasites once attached to the fish. UV Sterilizers can be used with other methods to treat Ich. UV Sterilizers will kill free floating algae. It will not kill algae that is stuck to your glass or imbedded in your live rock. It needs to go through the UV sterilizer to be zapped.

A UV will kill ICH but again only in the free swimming stage and only if they happen to go through the unit.
Rob
 
... you would need a strong UV lamp and flow. Exposure needed to kill ich is 336,000 uWscm^-2. Thats a higher exposure needed than just about any other microorganism for effective UV sterilization.

...

A UV will kill ICH but again only in the free swimming stage and only if they happen to go through the unit.
Rob

OK, interesting pico-watt per sq centimeter figure you gave. You do realize that that figure is for water containing the organisms) FOR A SINGLE PASS THROUGH THE FILTER, right?

You do realize I am recommending 2 to 3 passes per hour, don't you? i.e., the aquarium volume is cycled through the filter, totally, 2x or more per hour.

The free swimming stage is just fine, just call me "baby killer!" <evil grin> You do realize that the Tomites CAN stay in that stage for 3 days while they "hunt" their hosts, right? We need only an hour or two of their time ... HEHEHEHEHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!

I like to lay my ear against the case of the UV tube and hear the little buggers screaming!!!! And, the popping/sizzling sounds are great! :Angel:(well, something like that) :screwy:

And, btw, I never did think you were here for an argument, just to ask answers, discuss, debate, etc. Nothing wrong with that; I am hear to learn myself!

Let's just put the religious wars which have been waged, over UV light, to rest--thank you for your valuable input!

Regards,
TA
 

Check this out, if ya' wanna nuke your noodle:
http://americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.html

I don't quite follow everything that is going on there, and the redox potential(s) are touted like ads in a health food store--that turns me off a bit. Redox just doesn't give fish super fish health to ward off ICK--but on the whole, the article is useful, if taken with a grain of sand.

Regards,
TA
 
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