Vac your Gravel

KicksNJ

AC Members
Dec 2, 2008
24
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0
Central NJ
I was wondering how often people vacuum there gravel. I have a 125 gallon tank with 5 parrots 2 severums and a 13" silver arowana. I do have lot of real plants in the tank. It would be a pain to have to uproot the plants all time to clean the gravel. But I seem to have a high phosphate level and no matter how many water changes I do I still have the phosphate and always a slight cloudy look to the water. I should add here that I am very familiar with testing water and have a 8 stage RO/DI water system I use for my 300g saltwater tank. I am using the same water for the freshwater tank. I don't think I have a large bio-load, but would using a wet/dry filter help at all. The salt tank is crystal clear. :1zhelp:
 
Vaccuming isn't really necessary if you have a nutrient-enriched substrate like eco-complete or something. If it's just regular gravel and pebbles, then yes, you should vaccum every 2 weeks during a water change.
 
don't pull your plants. unless you want to rescape.

what's your fert schedule? is your tank new? have you checked your water for phosphates? maybe it's time to change a cartridge out. are you leaving extra food around?
 
You should wash your cartridges out with tank water. :) Remove the carbon if it's been used for over 2 months and just use the polyester.
 
I have never vacuumed my gravel that has any live plants in it. I do in my 1 tank that had no live plants until recently but no more.

50% waterchanges every day for a bit might be in order if you are really concerned about it. Or you could try and balance them out over time with other ferts so that your plants use it up with the other needed nutrients.
 
I have on this tank 2 aquaclear 110's no carbon just floss between 2 sponges.
Gets changed out every month. Sponges are cleaned out in tank water. Also a mag 350 running with just the polishing filter,changed out as it clogs. The tank is all gravel base, nothing special. I don't really use fert. I just have a diy co2 setup. 2 36" 96 watt x 4 lighting. 2 large air stones pumping a large amount of air into the tank. Water change of 20% weekly. Also have a aquapure nitrate filters running as well. Nitrate is still always at 30 to 40 ppm. Tank has been up for almost a year now.
 
I do gravel vac and my tank is VERY HEAVILY PLANTED--just vac around the plants--not remove the plants then vac. Not doing gravel vacs will not raise your phosphates (Nitrates maybe, but not Phosphates).

Phosphates do not materilize, they must be put into the tank to be present---from your water supply, food, ect.

A Wet/Dry will not lower Phosphates either. It is a great Ammonia and Nitrite reducer, but will produce lots of Nitrates.

The Phosphates must be removed--plants eat it, water changes, or Phosphate reactor.
 
I do gravel vac and my tank is VERY HEAVILY PLANTED--just vac around the plants--not remove the plants then vac. Not doing gravel vacs will not raise your phosphates (Nitrates maybe, but not Phosphates).

Phosphates do not materilize, they must be put into the tank to be present---from your water supply, food, ect.

A Wet/Dry will not lower Phosphates either. It is a great Ammonia and Nitrite reducer, but will produce lots of Nitrates.

The Phosphates must be removed--plants eat it, water changes, or Phosphate reactor.

Water is RO/DI stripped clean. All water tests from the RO/DI water are 0 ppm Ok I guess wet/dry not needed. I don't want anymore nitrates then I already have.
 
Nitrates are a natural function of the cycle...a wet dry doesn't produce more of them than any other style filtration.
 
Nitrates are a natural function of the cycle...a wet dry doesn't produce more of them than any other style filtration.

Not exactly what I mean. Wet/drys do not Produce more Nitrates, just so efficient of a Bio filter because they have==more area for bacteria==more bacteria with more O2==more nitrates.
 
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