diy hood light. 29 florescent 27 watt day light bulbs

[Navyscuba]

ok you cant just make a statement like that and not explain yourself whats with the materials??? every florescent fixture that i have ever seen is based on the same concept. please explain what you are talking about.

Ok the receptacles that you are screwing the bulbs in are not safe for that application. They sell the same application with wires coming out. Then I'm ok if you at least cover them for example heat shrink material. I'm not saying is not a great project but is not safe. There is room for improvement. I know You have great ideas I like your other idea the one with the 5 gal bucket. I'm sorry if I made you mad but is my opinion.

 

[Sploke]

1) That wiring job looks like a house fire waiting to happen. If you're going to run wiring like that inside the fixture, I would at least use proper junction boxes and wire nuts rather than having bare 120VAC wires snaking all over the place.

2) Restrike due to the design of the spiral CFL bulbs is generally estimated to be in the range of 50-70% loss. Which means that while you are using 29x27w = 783w of power, you are probably getting (.6 * 783) = 470w of usable light actually into the tank after loss. This doesn't account for efficiency loss in the ballast due to heat generation.

You can get a 4x96w CF setup with high efficiency reflectors, which would use 384w and are generally rated at about 95-96% efficient as far as getting that light into the tank. a T5HO setup would be even better. The power savings would justify the expense.

Its a nice idea, but I don't know how you justify that design over T5HO, and the safety issue would be a huge turnoff for me especially with a child in the house.

Nice canopy though.

 

[platytudes]

Hopefully CWO4GUNNER will chime in, he was an electrician in the military I believe - so he should be able to comment on the safety of your DIY hood.

You should write a little about it IMO, not just post a ton of pics - for example it looks like you have three fans on there to vent the hood, so how about telling us about them and how are you coping with the heat output in general.

Build threads like these can be very helpful and enlightening to others but it's way more helpful when you include a write up. For example someone might want to know how much this project cost you and how long it took, you could list the materials you used and their approximate cost, etc.

Just some suggestions

 

[vequalsir]

LOL! iamvictor2k

I am so surprised at how quickly people jump to point out problems with your projects.

Here's some quick calculations: 783watts is only 6.52 amps. That's about half of a low end vacuum cleaner.

As for the wiring...Soldered connections are far superior to wire nut IMHO. You are going to have a lesser chance of loose connections...loose connections get hot and start fires. Plus all the wire connections are made away from the wet side of the light and protected from little hands. I don't see a downside here.

Sploke..Sure you may have more efficient ways to generate the light...Hell you could argue that victor should be using High Intensity LED lights...eventually the savings would offset the huge outlay on lights and drivers... I understand that these are suggestions; however, obviously the light is made and working. I think questions on the design and operation would be more appropriate.

It would be nice to see the total cost and some tank photos to show the growth over time.

 

[rithunder916]

Nice setup.

I do agree though that the wiring is a little bit messy, and with open connections, you could easily wind up with a fire on your hands.

I don't think anyone here meant to make you mad, just don't want anything bad to happen.

mike

 

[wesleydnunder]

In 30+ years as an electrician/electronics tech, that's one of the scariest jobs I've ever seen. The connections to the timer prongs are my favorite. LOL

Mark

 

[Sploke]

Here's some quick calculations: 783watts is only 6.52 amps. That's about half of a low end vacuum cleaner.

Not really sure what your point is here.

As for the wiring...Soldered connections are far superior to wire nut IMHO.

There's a reason wiring nuts are used in building houses. Secure and SAFE connections....no exposed leads with potential for arcing or shorting.

I think questions on the design and operation would be more appropriate.

These are design suggestions. I'm just trying to learn the justification for a potentially hazardous and inefficient build when for probably about the same price and less work, you could build the same hood and install a retrofit with more efficient components.

 

[RodInCALIFORNIA]

great idea but like several have said the wiring looks like a fire waiting to happen....hope your fire insurance company doesnt see these pics LOL

 

[iamvictor2k]

Ok the receptacles that you are screwing the bulbs in are not safe for that application. They sell the same application with wires coming out. Then I'm ok if you at least cover them for example heat shrink material. I'm not saying is not a great project but is not safe. There is room for improvement. I know You have great ideas I like your other idea the one with the 5 gal bucket. I'm sorry if I made you mad but is my opinion.

not mad i was just confused. but to tell you, if you take apart any other lighted hood made by large company's they do the same thing take a look sum time. the wires arent sealed and neither is the plugs. all hood lights are not safe. and i soldered all the connections and that was my cheapest option the plug light converters were about 1.50 cheaper than the ones with wires and i had spare wire laying around so bingo.

 

[wesleydnunder]

LOL! iamvictor2k

I am so surprised at how quickly people jump to point out problems with your projects.

Here's some quick calculations: 783watts is only 6.52 amps. That's about half of a low end vacuum cleaner.

As for the wiring...Soldered connections are far superior to wire nut IMHO. You are going to have a lesser chance of loose connections...loose connections get hot and start fires. Plus all the wire connections are made away from the wet side of the light and protected from little hands. I don't see a downside here.

Sploke..Sure you may have more efficient ways to generate the light...Hell you could argue that victor should be using High Intensity LED lights...eventually the savings would offset the huge outlay on lights and drivers... I understand that these are suggestions; however, obviously the light is made and working. I think questions on the design and operation would be more appropriate.

It would be nice to see the total cost and some tank photos to show the growth over time.

The national electric code contains a statement that is repeated throughout: "Listed for the use."
Those sockets are not listed for the use in that application with those terminations.
Also the screw shell for an incandescant/self-ballasted compact fluorescent must have the neutral terminated to it, never the hot/switch leg.
The concept itself has merit. I appreciate someone taking the initiative and applying some good old fashioned skull-sweat to a problem. The execution in this case was lacking.

Mark