diy hood light. 29 florescent 27 watt day light bulbs

[iamvictor2k]

1) That wiring job looks like a house fire waiting to happen. If you're going to run wiring like that inside the fixture, I would at least use proper junction boxes and wire nuts rather than having bare 120VAC wires snaking all over the place.

2) Restrike due to the design of the spiral CFL bulbs is generally estimated to be in the range of 50-70% loss. Which means that while you are using 29x27w = 783w of power, you are probably getting (.6 * 783) = 470w of usable light actually into the tank after loss. This doesn't account for efficiency loss in the ballast due to heat generation.

You can get a 4x96w CF setup with high efficiency reflectors, which would use 384w and are generally rated at about 95-96% efficient as far as getting that light into the tank. a T5HO setup would be even better. The power savings would justify the expense.

Its a nice idea, but I don't know how you justify that design over T5HO, and the safety issue would be a huge turnoff for me especially with a child in the house.

Nice canopy though.

seriously i dont have any wires exposed they are in a box its called a wooden box the same concept as wire nuts in a metal box but bigger an wood. yall have never done much electrical work have you? i mean take apart any thing a computer an power supply a light fixture. the exact same thing is being done. for real any of you electritions? my father in law is a general contractor and he said its as safe as any house. i know what i am doing and i made the wiring large enough to cover the amperage of all 29 lights.

 

[iamvictor2k]

LOL! iamvictor2k

I am so surprised at how quickly people jump to point out problems with your projects.

Here's some quick calculations: 783watts is only 6.52 amps. That's about half of a low end vacuum cleaner.

As for the wiring...Soldered connections are far superior to wire nut IMHO. You are going to have a lesser chance of loose connections...loose connections get hot and start fires. Plus all the wire connections are made away from the wet side of the light and protected from little hands. I don't see a downside here.

Sploke..Sure you may have more efficient ways to generate the light...Hell you could argue that victor should be using High Intensity LED lights...eventually the savings would offset the huge outlay on lights and drivers... I understand that these are suggestions; however, obviously the light is made and working. I think questions on the design and operation would be more appropriate.

It would be nice to see the total cost and some tank photos to show the growth over time.

thank you very much some one that knows what they are talking about. the only thing i bought was the socket adapters they were .99 cents a walmart a piece. glass and hardware glass was 18 a piece and i had 2 pieces and hardware was about 5 bucks the main red and black power switch was 3 bucks from radio shack and the light bulbs from home depot for about 50 bucks and the 2 timers were 3 bucks.the rest of it was free that i had laying around the house to include the wood paint stain 1 fan 2 hole covers that allow the fan to pull air from the top and the bottom portions keeps it rely cool in there. wire was free and thats about it

 

[iamvictor2k]

ok some one please open there computers up and tell me what a fire hazard it is compared to my project. any one????? and the terminals on the timers are soldered from the inside also so whats so funny about that????

 

[Sploke]

well you've obviously got it covered. good luck then.

:screwy:

 

[247Plants]

Thats scary.....

Fireworks are labeled "Safe & Sane" here too and inevitably, every year somebody blows their hand off. Im just sayin....

 

[iamvictor2k]

no glass or Plexiglas cover. metal box. exposed components. no barrier from water directly exposed to wires and wire nuts. see the crack between the 2 pieces of metal??? now how is that more safe than mine????? i have 2 barriers between my wires and components. wood and glass i have a bunch of wires together just like the old light fixtures. and my connections are soldered not wire nutted together. and my box is wood not metal less of a chance for wires to short on the frame.

 

[Navyscuba]

I see your point but I was referring to a kid or someone else sticking their hand on the area were the wiring is.

 

[iamvictor2k]

I see your point but I was referring to a kid or someone else sticking their hand on the area were the wiring is.

well you dont have it pluged in when you take it apart. that would be stupid. you put the light plate in the box with screws and then you put the bulbs in and then you turn it on. the only thing that a person could hurt them on is the fan. i am looking for a nice cover for it. it is so set in about 1.5 inch that you would have to try pretty hard to get your finger in that.

 

[mellowvision]

the fixture you just used as an example does not have any bare wires, or connections. they are all covered. the only place bare, charged metal is in the open, is where the bulb connects, and that's a requirement of the design. I think where people are finding exception to the safety of your device is not the plywood box, but the way you have your connections exposed inside. Nothing is secured or covered. there is a great chance of something shifting, and a wire resting on a connection and getting hot... and many places for condensation to find it's way between connections... there's a lot that could go wrong.

There's absolutely no reason to refute these statements, or get defensive. If you can't see that people are trying to keep you from getting hurt, I don't know what to say.

View attachment 121463

 

[iamvictor2k]

the fixture you just used as an example does not have any bare wires, or connections. they are all covered. the only place bare, charged metal is in the open, is where the bulb connects, and that's a requirement of the design. I think where people are finding exception to the safety of your device is not the plywood box, but the way you have your connections exposed inside. Nothing is secured or covered. there is a great chance of something shifting, and a wire resting on a connection and getting hot... and many places for condensation to find it's way between connections... there's a lot that could go wrong.

There's absolutely no reason to refute these statements, or get defensive. If you can't see that people are trying to keep you from getting hurt, I don't know what to say.

i dont think that you all understand that this is 14 gauge solid wire (not braided) nothing is going to shift i have a hard time pulling the light bar from the box because the wire is so stiff. all connections are soldered so no movement can take place. yes i have my connections exposed inside but that isnt going to affect any thing because of the design. as far as "condensation" my large fan will take care of all the minute condensation that will happen.