Soil selection help...
- Thread starter Ara
- Start date
I disagree based upon the specifications Eclipse gives: 12 gallons, 13W 5000K PC light, 17" height.
If you look at many larger sized tanks, you'll see a lot around 22" (like a standard size 55 gallon is 21" and a 60 gallon is 23 7/8") height, and many low light plants will grow in them at the ~1wpg level. At only 17" from the bottom of the tank, the intensity of light from a bulb delivering 1wpg will be 1.67 times greater, as the inverse square law governing the relation of light intensity and distance from the source shows us that every time the distance is cut in half the strength of light at the new distance is quadrupled. So our light which delivers 1wpg at 22" will, although still the same real brightness, deliver at 17" the equivalent of a 1.67wpg light at 22". 5000K is a fine color temperature for growing plants. Direct sunlight at noon, in the summer, is in that neighborhood and on an overcast day, light from the sky's color temperate is closer to 6700K. Of course, just because a light has the same color temperature as sunlight that doesn't mean it has a lot of power at the wavelengths most useful to plants. It's pretty safe to assume that the spectrum (the range wavelengths and their intensities that a particular source of light emits) of the bulb does contain sufficient intensity at those wavelengths to support plant growth. Even a standard GE warm white cfl will support plant growth -seen it, done it.
So, at the equivalent brightness of a standard 55 gallon tank with 1.67wpg, with an adequate spectrum (our safe assumption) and color temperature of 5000k, you really should be able to grow some nice plants.
Worm castings is also a very good method, and a bit more consistent in terms of how to make it and the results are stunning as well:
http://www.aquahobby.com/tanks/e_tank0311b.php
This is with CO2, but slowing things down without CO2, the supply and type of nutrients still functions and works wonderfully.
Folks can also DIY their own worm castings also.
ADA and some other similar products are mostly clay soils rolled into grains.
But they are nice and look good, make a less messy issue if you end up mixing the sand and soil layers.
As I do not like such mixing, I use the commercial brands for my own tanks vs the DIY which I use for research pots etc.
Regards,
Tom Barr
http://www.aquahobby.com/tanks/e_tank0311b.php
This is with CO2, but slowing things down without CO2, the supply and type of nutrients still functions and works wonderfully.
Folks can also DIY their own worm castings also.
ADA and some other similar products are mostly clay soils rolled into grains.
But they are nice and look good, make a less messy issue if you end up mixing the sand and soil layers.
As I do not like such mixing, I use the commercial brands for my own tanks vs the DIY which I use for research pots etc.
Regards,
Tom Barr
no you cant, unless you float a couple easy stem plants on the water top or put some anubias/ferns/mosses in there, in both cases soil still does not matter. Having 50watt on a 50 gallon is not the same as 10watt on a 10 gallon. Height matters, but not to the extent you mentioned. 5500k to 10000k are all fine, but bulb temp has no relevance to this discussion.
most times people do tend to over emphasis lighting while overlook co2, but there is a minimum lighting requirement and most plants will not grow in a stock eclipse 12, period.
Bulb efficiency from a 13 W is very low compared to a 55 w PC lamp, there is the issue, less so with height but that is a factor as well.
I'd use 2x 13W for the 12 gal. Also, with 2 bulbs spaced apart more, you get a better spread of light, so there's more angels and less self shading from other plants.
And if there's any issues, you can turn one off, and then the other on later, or just use at a time in other words.
So you have some options.
Another way to reduce light is to use a layer or two of metal screen for windows between the light and splash guard.
Regards,
Tom Barr
I'd use 2x 13W for the 12 gal. Also, with 2 bulbs spaced apart more, you get a better spread of light, so there's more angels and less self shading from other plants.
And if there's any issues, you can turn one off, and then the other on later, or just use at a time in other words.
So you have some options.
Another way to reduce light is to use a layer or two of metal screen for windows between the light and splash guard.
Regards,
Tom Barr
Well, plantbrain helpfully points out that the 13w PC bulb is less efficient than the 55w PC, so it's all out the window. I believe that if the distribution of the light is even across the surfaces of the 10gal and the 50gal at the same power and efficiency from sources at identical distances from the surface, the surfaces will be equally lit but of course since they are different depths, the floors of the tanks will be unequally lit.
Any who, I kept an Oddysea B9, nine gallon aquarium about 15 inches height and with an 18W PC bulb/tube/whatever you call it and high light plants grew very well, not stalky at all. Variable leafed water hyacinth grew lushly from the substrate on up (never allowed to become emersed). And substrate/soil does effect many rooted plants. The hyacinth I mentions insists on rich soil. I bet plantbrain is on the money suggesting two 13w PCs since the tank is probably longer and seems to be a bit higher than the old B9.
