Confused about co2

Alicia

Alicia

Hidden in the Shadows
Nov 15, 2003
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At first I didn't want to do co2 and now I want to. I have spent hours today reading on how to set up co2 to my my tank, and I am still really confused. Can someone please explain it to me? Lol, and I need it explained to me like I am stupid at this point.
I know that I can't use my current filters; they are 2 hob Penguin filters rated for 70 gallons each. My lighting is rated at 110 wats spread out over 3 bulbs (2 are T12 and 1 is T8) All 3 bulbs are Daytime. I have a lightly planted tank with 14 plants in it. It is a 72 gallon bow front.
I am confused about everything I guess. I would like to know how you hook the co2 up to a filter... and what kind of filter should I use, and then how do you hook that up to the tank? And how exactly do you measure the bubble count?
I also read a chart that showed how much co2 to have if you had a certain ph... I didn't quite understand that either.
And about how much does this usually cost to start up?
 
First, lets start with HOB filters will Outgas CO2 from your system as the water fall breaks over the water surface.

CO2 can be used in conjunction with Canister Filters. Canisters have hoses input and exits...

If you hook into the exit with CO2 you can mix it with the exiting water...

HOB filters are counter productive to CO2 injection...


The need for CO2 arrives after the plants are given a lot of intense light and the plants start using CO2 and other vitamins and minerals from the water.

IME a t-12 and a few t-8's are usually not intense enough to necessitate CO2 injection.

How to hook up CO2 to a filter would require a DIY CO2 reactor(made at home or ordered made) and a canister filter.
The canister draws in dirty water and puts out cleaned water.
One would connect a reactor(and CO2) to the output line(clean water) and inject CO2 into the reactor on the line.

One measures a bubble count by a bubble counter... Either DIY bubble counter, or bubble counter attached to the CO2 tank regulator...

Bubble counting WILL NOT tell you the ppm of CO2 within your tank.

The best way to estimate the ppm CO2, is with a drop checker and 4DKH solution.
This is an apparatus that changes color with different CO2 levels.

The chart you saw was really not accurate because if you have any buffering agents(wood or other decorations(that change the water parameters)), those charts are worthless.

One could test KH and have a ph controller(turns on and off CO2 with pH levels...) and use the chart for a somewhat accurate ppm CO2 reading.

To have a good system without autonmated CO2, you'll need 150ish to start... with controller more like 250 ish... This is using good used equipment... Nothing wrong with that.

I got a tank and regulator for about 75ish on CL with a trade for a hard drive...

I spent like 150 on my controller...

I spent 50-75 on dry ferts(cheaper than pre-mixes)...

I spent 50ish on reactor parts with the expensive glues...(glue cost the most)

I spent... alot on a bunch of plants... weigh your cost to happiness meter...

-Aaron
 
Ok. So, what is a co2 reactor?

And will any canister filter work or does it need to be a special brand?

I'm telling ya; I'm really confused. Yet, I really want to do this.
 
A reactor is a tube that has water and co2 in it... The co2 dissolves in the tube and mixes with the water...

Eheims are the most commonly used brand. Fluval is the least because of "noises" from the canister.
 
Thank you for your help. I understand it A LOT better now :) I will start getting all of the peices for it as soon as I can. That link that you gave me is awesome.
 
Alicia said:
Ok. So, what is a co2 reactor?

And will any canister filter work or does it need to be a special brand?

I'm telling ya; I'm really confused. Yet, I really want to do this.
Click to expand...

Let's try this a different way. We shall start with the CO2 canister/cylinder. It can range anywhere from 5lbs to 50lbs. The lbs rating means how much liquid CO2 the cylinder can handle. I initially started with a 5lb cylinder, but quickly found out that it doesn't last very long and it costs almost the same to have a 20lb cylinder filled, so now I only use 20's. Here is a website with the cylinders on it, http://www.co2-canisters.com/, they are in the top right of the picture.

Next, you attach a pressure regulator to the CO2 cylinder. This allows you to regulate the output pressure to a degree.

To the pressure regulator is usually attached a needle valve, which allows you to fine tune the pressure coming out, and a bubble counter is usually attached to the needle valve. The bubble counter can be filled with special bubble counter fluid, or if you are cheap like me you can just use water. This will show you how fast the CO2 is flowing through the needle valve.

To the bubble counter you attach CO2 proof tubing.

The other end of the CO2 proof tubing is attached to a reactor or the intake of a canister filter. Me, I prefer using a reactor.

A reactor is something that mixes the CO2 with the water in the tank. I have tried several different ones and have finally settled on a some glass reactors that suction cup to the side of the tank. They have a porous piece in them that emits the CO2 in very fine bubbles.

Now, if you want to add in the PH controller, that is another can of worms, but that is how I run all my CO2 systems so I do not have to continuously monitor them. I also use the PH/KH chart for my tanks even though I have driftwood in them, and over the past 4 years there has not been a problem and the plants have flourished.

Essentially, by knowing the PH & KH of the water, you can use the chart to determine your CO2 ppm. I go with a 7.2 PH and 9.0 KH. Obviously, you would need a PH and KH test kit.

The controller measures the PH and when it increases above a certain level, it electronically opens a solenoid on the regulator that allows the CO2 to flow. CO2 is acidic, so it will drop the PH of the tank to your set PH level and then the controller with shut the solenoid and stop the flow of CO2. In my example, the controller opens the solenoid when the PH level reaches 7.4 (e.g., when the plants have removed enough of the acidic CO2 to make the PH rise) and then it shuts the solenoid when the PH reaches 7.2. The only thing I have to do is to monitor the KH value in the aquarium and the pressure on the cylinder to make sure it does not run out of CO2.

I use baking soda to adjust the KH value after every water change. My city water is rather soft in the KH department, so it is a must for me to adjust it.
 
So, then does that way get me out of having to use a canister filter? I am not intentionally trying to get out of it, I just really can't afford to by one. But I really need to do some thing soon because my plants are turning yellow.
 
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