Pictus Catfish just dropped dead

rbishop said:
If the water you use has what you do not want to begin with, the carbon is the answer.
Click to expand...

Hi Rob - would your advice therefore be use carbon if your source water has some e.g. ammonia in it but not necessary otherwise ?

edit : post below correct as I understand it; my question should have been (is now :)) what is it in the water that requires carbon to remove.
 
Last edited:
carbon doesnt effectivly remove ammonia right, thats zeolite that removes ammonia right?
 
Carbon does have some minimal effect on ammonia. But not really so much that you can rely on it.

Our nitrate test is really just an inexpensive, easy test that relates to many other parameters that are in out tanks, that are more difficult or expensive to test for in a home enviroment.

There are many TDS (total dissolved solids) and DOC (dissolved organic compounds) that have a variety of things that contribute to them. Carbon is very effective on a large quantity of them.

For me, the clarity that is achieved by the use of carbon is a very visual thing, and provides a cleaner water. The problem usually stems from the small quantity and poor quality of carbon that is usually provided in filter cartridges. So if you just use what is normally packaged, it doesn't really prove effective. Believe me, for the majority of hobbyists out there, it is an unecessary expense.

But, for some of us, it is almost a vital requirement in achieving our water standards for removing impurities.
 
gotcha - thanks as always. So does the requirement stem from the fish you're keeping, your source water or your dedication as an aquarist to go the extra mile ?
 
In my current set ups, some of the fish I keep, mainly discus and their fry and for the rest, an extra mile....:)
 
:) that does not surprise me...last question on this one; good suppliers/sources ? (presuming you can buy online and its still good after the couple of weeks delivery period)
 
okay - here's the scoop. hubby is finally convinced to do a fishless cycle. ammonia is NOT low - he did a strip test. The liquid test and the LFS liquid test show that it is above 1.0. Nitrites are starting to rise so he is hoping for 2-3 weeks, but not dead set on that date, for it to finish iinitial cycle. Adding a pinch of food a day, stopping water changes (is this good?), turned the heater back up to 78 (had lowered it after the last fish died to make it inhospitable for the columnaris), and just wait - with periodic water tests.

On the lighter side, while we were at the LFS, we found a 55 gal tank and stand, just the tank and stand (well, the light too, but it's not really the right size), no top, filter, heater, etc. for $60. bought it to slowly buy the needed components, with great care and careful selection, and eventually (hopefully in a month or two, have it filled and cycling itself. Anyone have any thoughts on types of filters for this? He wants to put in at least 80-100 gal capacity filter. It is long, so would it be a good thing to put a 50 gal (170 gph) bio-wheel filter on each end?

So, the danios will have to wait - in fact we have decided to spend the cycling time on the 20 gal (and the 55 gal) researching fish types, compatability, etc. and carefully select our fish, adding them much more slowly and no more fishy cycles.
 
yeah get 2 50 gallon bio-wheels or get 1 canister and one HOB, you have a large choice of filtration on this size tank, if your willing maybe even a wet/dry trickle filter. Choice is yours

Its ok not to do water changes during a fishless, theres nothing that the ammonia can kill, if you want to try to speed up the cycle (doesnt always work for people, didnt work for me) try bio-spira.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
AquariaCentral.com
Top Bottom