Thanks! I also got some exact instructions from Milwuakee Instruments. They were very explicit. I'd like to post them, but they are long.
A few co2 injection questions.....
- Thread starter TrashmanTodd
- Start date
CO2 will lower the pH in your tank. This is how a controller works. You set a pH level and when it goes above that, it turns on the CO2, and when it drops below it turns it off. Of course you have to set it below your aquarium's natural point. You can adjust the buffering capacity of the water and add a little baking soda to push it to turn on the CO2.
Without a controller, people often turn off the CO2 at night because without light, the plants don't photosynthesize. However my tank with the controller will turn it on even with the lights off since it's going by pH. In theory leaving it on all night could negatively affect your pH, causing it to drop since it isn't being consumed. But at the low level you must be using to run it all the time, it probably wouldn't be a problem either way. The main thing is to monitor your reactor... if you see a large bubble forming, you should turn it down.
I run my main regulator at about 20psi and use a needle valve to lower it to 1-2 bubbles per second. As the pressure in the tank decreases, I have to open the main valve more to get it back to 20psi or so. I do have a splitter and second needle valve going to a second tank. I split it before the solenoid so it runs all the time at a slower rate. I use Tom Barr's homemade reactor design in that tank and it works quite well. The 150 gallon tank with the controller has a big reactor with bio-balls in it. I'm not sure what I will use in my new tanks.
Michael
Without a controller, people often turn off the CO2 at night because without light, the plants don't photosynthesize. However my tank with the controller will turn it on even with the lights off since it's going by pH. In theory leaving it on all night could negatively affect your pH, causing it to drop since it isn't being consumed. But at the low level you must be using to run it all the time, it probably wouldn't be a problem either way. The main thing is to monitor your reactor... if you see a large bubble forming, you should turn it down.
I run my main regulator at about 20psi and use a needle valve to lower it to 1-2 bubbles per second. As the pressure in the tank decreases, I have to open the main valve more to get it back to 20psi or so. I do have a splitter and second needle valve going to a second tank. I split it before the solenoid so it runs all the time at a slower rate. I use Tom Barr's homemade reactor design in that tank and it works quite well. The 150 gallon tank with the controller has a big reactor with bio-balls in it. I'm not sure what I will use in my new tanks.
Michael
The cylinder valve should be fully open or fully closed at all times. The CGA 320 valve is not designed to operate in any other positions.
You then adjust the working pressure of the regulator using the adjustment built into the regulator. Note that some regulators have a fixed working pressure which I find rather short sighted.
You then adjust the working pressure of the regulator using the adjustment built into the regulator. Note that some regulators have a fixed working pressure which I find rather short sighted.
I have an Octopus controller and got tired pretty quick of hearing the X-10 module clacking every time it cycled (very frequently during day). I teed off another valve on the low side and adjusted this to be very close to the nominal amount of CO2 needed during light periods. This drastically reduces the number of solenoid cycles...which my wife is also happy about.
One trick I used to give better control over bleed valve adjustment is to put a two to three foot section of teflon capillary tube (approx .5mm bore) in CO2 line after the solenoid. The resistance of this piece of tubing makes the valve setting much less sensitive to adjustment. I had this tubing from the hospital I worked at...was part of gas sampling mass spectrometer from Perkin Elmer. I inserted this inside a length of silicone airline and the OD of the capillary tubing was a firm press fit to the ID of the valve. You might also seal with silicone of these dimensions don't exactly work for your valve. A 60cm length is available for $5 on Perkin Elmer's web site; http://las.perkinelmer.com/Catalog/ProductInfoPage.htm?ProductID=WE024375
Wes
One trick I used to give better control over bleed valve adjustment is to put a two to three foot section of teflon capillary tube (approx .5mm bore) in CO2 line after the solenoid. The resistance of this piece of tubing makes the valve setting much less sensitive to adjustment. I had this tubing from the hospital I worked at...was part of gas sampling mass spectrometer from Perkin Elmer. I inserted this inside a length of silicone airline and the OD of the capillary tubing was a firm press fit to the ID of the valve. You might also seal with silicone of these dimensions don't exactly work for your valve. A 60cm length is available for $5 on Perkin Elmer's web site; http://las.perkinelmer.com/Catalog/ProductInfoPage.htm?ProductID=WE024375
Wes
They're written that way because it's not a great regulator for the job (low flow for aquariums). When I get my MIG welding setup, I'll probably put one of my Milwaukee regulators on the shielding gas bottle and install a better one for the aquarium.
If you want stuff that works for an aquarium...well, I'll put in a plug for good stuff that is thoughtfully designed, purpose-built for the job, and will work:
Quality CO2 Gear, not Milwaukee
v/r, N-A
