Major Electrical Problems

wackydan said:
Partly wrong. Multiple rooms ( even on different floors )can share the same GFI outlet, or if a newer panel, a GFI enabled breaker properly installed in the panel.

A GFI does not have to be within 1 meter... rather an outlet must be part of a GFI chain if within close proximity to water.
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our code here states that there must be a GFI if there is an outlet planned within 1m of a water source, IE bathub, sink, water tap.

Im not to familar with the GFI breakers themselves, but they work the same as a GFI correct?

how can two rooms share a single GFI? i cant picture that in my head.
and do you have info on a GFI chain, im also unfamiliar with that as well.

thanks for pointing that out.
 
DarkSoul said:
our code here states that there must be a GFI if there is an outlet planned within 1m of a water source, IE bathub, sink, water tap.

Im not to familar with the GFI breakers themselves, but they work the same as a GFI correct?

how can two rooms share a single GFI? i cant picture that in my head.
and do you have info on a GFI chain, im also unfamiliar with that as well.

thanks for pointing that out.
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The National Electric Code stipulates a GFI protected outlet if said outlet is within 6 feet of a sink. An appliance like a clothes washer (or fridge ) incidentally, does not require a GFI outlet provided that the outlet is dedicated to the washer only, or if the appliance is allowed to block access to the outlet.

Obviously, local codes may vary, but typically are based almost to the letter on the NEC.

A GFI breaker does the exact same job as a GFI outlet. It makes for a cleaner appearance in the rooms where GFI protection is mandated or desired. Any outlet on that circuit would be GFI protected at the breaker. This is becoming the normal install on new construction.

A GFI outlet has your typical test and reset buttons. A GFI enabled outlet is used down line or "chained" with the GFI outlet itself. In this setup, the GFI protecting outlet with the test/reset buttons needs to be the first outlet on the circuit. You would note that the GFI outlet with the test/reset buttons has extra terminals that are not on a standard outlet. These terminals are for the downleg outlets. This is what provides GFI protection on a chain of outlets without the need to have a test/reset button on every outlet box.... it is also cheaper and provides the same protection. Next time you are in a home Depot, etc... take one out of the box and read the directions, - easy to understand, and will help you picture what I'm saying.

Because there can be outlets chained off of a standard GFI outlet, you can very easily have GFI protected outlets in multiple rooms on the same chain. - quite normal.

For example my master bath outlet and my three outside outlets are chained with the main GFI protected outlet in the garage. - The garage outlet provides GFI protection throughout the chain. On average, a circuit of any type feeds five to six outlets in one room or multiple rooms... . same for GFI.

I have two GFI outlets in the kitchen, on separate chains/groups of outlets. My two other bathrooms, one upstairs,and one downstairs are on one of the kitchen GFI's.

Personally, I prefer the GFI breakers, and I'll probably upgrade those circuits when I do some more remodeling.

Why this is all fresh in my head is that I'm going to be adding a tankless hot water heater to the house soon, and they require a 110v outlet to run the igniter, and in some cases a draft motor. Because the heater will be in a dedicated closet I won't need it to be GFI protected.

Again, local codes can vary, and it's better to check before you make changes or add circuits.

In selling the house, most home inspectors in my area (charlotte, NC) will only flag electrical if they see something obviously dangerous or a hazard.If they see a clean looking installation, and the circuit tests fine for polarity, and ground, they won't write it up.
 
thanks for the info dude, I see what you mean now.

1m = 6 feet :p (6.6 actually isnt it?) anyway, thats good info, I honestly didnt know that GFIs could be chained like that.


it now makes sense in my head lmao.
 
Being in IT and getting into fish I've encountered the same problem a few too many times. Last year we rewired the panel and service entirely so that I could support my christmas light display (60,000 bulbs now around 110 amps). Since I do the technology consulting I'm used to dealing with 30 amp UPS systems all day long so the majority of the new outlets are 30 amp. including the accidental fish rig.

Best bet would be to see if you have an open slot in the panel, and check the main on the panel, most homes have around a 150 or 200 amp panel (though sometimes smaller and rarely higher). if the panel is near where your running your outlets you should be good, especially if you have attic access. All in to change out our service from a 150 amp to a 250 we spent around $2300 (I picked up materials and did the majority of the drywall and pre-wiring for new outlets).

I would recommend picking up a large UPS system for the tank to guard against power outages and overload and wiring based on the requirements of that (anything above 2200VA is typically a 30 amp circuit). It's really going to depend on how much free space you have in the panel and the proximity to where you want the wiring. Very rarely is it easy to separate a circuit that runs in multiple areas.
 
30 amp circuits are typically not used for residential outlets - you tend to find them being used for AC units and Stoves - 12 and 14 guage wireing would basically melt with 30 amps.
 
this is true, but I recommended it based on the idea that he would be running an entirely new circuit. Coincedentally according to ugly's and code number 12 is okay for 30 amp (though I would run number 10 personally). To GFI or not to GFI is yet another conundrum, I went GFI for the outdoor lighting circuits but didnt in the computer room, while going GFI is more costly I wish I would have (at least on the two 30's that now run my tanks).

Long story short, if panels close drop a new circuit, go GFI if at all possible and make sure your equipment is grounded. Do be aware that if new work is to be connected to old work the old work will need to pass current code. And code changes happen constantly.
 
In australia it is ilegel to do ac wiring in a house and if any thing happens the insurance won't cover it and if any thing elese needs doing by a sparky later on and they find you have done some your self they wont touch it.
 
TEL said:
In australia it is ilegel to do ac wiring in a house and if any thing happens the insurance won't cover it and if any thing elese needs doing by a sparky later on and they find you have done some your self they wont touch it.
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Thats a tough code, but probably a good one in the long run.
 
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