Aquarium Safe Construction Supplies

I've been browsing other forums with the same concerns and it's surprising what you find.

There is an ongoing debate on GE Silcone I&II. Some one posted an interesting reply that Silicone I is ok but does not have the structural strenth of true aquarium silicone. Apparently, one of the main binding chemicals in aquarium silicone is different than GE Silicone I. Most forums seem dead against Silicone II or any silicone that has a mildew agent.

The same names keep popping up as THE ones to use: CRL 99AS, AGA, Perfecto and a German company that makes a silicone exclusively for aquariums. It also seem that these also have a counterpart in black and also come in larger tubes for a better price.

Krylon Fusion seems the hands down winner for painting ornaments. I have also used clear urethane spray from Home depot to spray on storebought ornaments to keep them from fading and the fish from sucking the paint off. I spray it on and let it sit for several days to clear VOC's.

I have also read that most two part epoxies, NOT polyester resins, are safe but must be cured very well. Polyester resins are not totally water safe. I remember seeing this in photography classes in college when the wet sink would turn slightly white after a days use and the clear up upon drying out. The right epoxy doesnt do this.

This past weekend I found at Home depot a stick epoxy that is for aquariums and water repairs. It works well. It's green in color. I would use surgical gloves when rolling between hands. Then you just throw them away when you're done.
 
Last edited:
I'm not an expert, but I thought I read recently that SiliconeII is unsafe because the antimildew agents are essentially designed to kill bacteria. would love to know more.

My thoughts on this are that if it does contain an anti-mildew agent, that it will kill bacteria trying to grow on the silicone. I'm not sure why/how that would affect any bacterial colonies growing in your filter and the like.

I cant give a definitive answer on that though, at least not until my tank is cycled. So I will keep an eye on things, and let everyone know about it in a month or so.

I've been browsing other forums with the same concerns and it's surprising what you find.

There is an ongoing debate on GE Silcone I&II. Some one posted an interesting reply that Silicone I is ok but does not have the structural strenth of true aquarium silicone. Apparently, one of the main binding chemicals in aquarium silicone is different than GE Silicone I. Most forums seem dead against Silicone II or any silicone that has a mildew agent.

The same names keep popping up as THE ones to use: CRL 99AS, AGA, Perfecto and a German company that makes a silicone exclusively for aquariums. It also seem that these also have a counterpart in black and also come in larger tubes for a better price.

Krylon Fusion seems the hands down winner for painting ornaments. I have also used clear urethane spray from Home depot to spray on storebought ornaments to keep them from fading and the fish from sucking the paint off. I spray it on and let it sit for several days to clear VOC's.

I have also read that most two part epoxies, NOT polyester resins, are safe but must be cured very well. Polyester resins are not totally water safe. I remember seeing this in photography classes in college when the wet sink would turn slightly white after a days use and the clear up upon drying out. The right epoxy doesnt do this.

This past weekend I found at Home depot a stick epoxy that is for aquariums and water repairs. It works well. It's green in color. I would use surgical gloves when rolling between hands. Then you just throw them away when you're done.

I used a marine grade epoxy, as mentioned in my previous post, and I don't know what kind of resin it is exactly, but I do have some "whitening" going on in a couple of spots, though it seems to have stopped.

drop by my thread for pics (link in sig)
 
not that the average joe would be able to use this, but "Corian" and most other solid suface materials are aquaium safe...
 
- GE Silicone II Window & Door.
This has not caused any ill effects to my fish at this point, and I don't think it gets enough credit. One person here used, I think, 4 tubes on his tank without problems, and doesnt seem to be causing me any problems either, just make sure its window and door.
Also, this is the most "adhesive" brand of silicone that GE offers (look on the chart thats right on every tube)


The 'Bio-seal' will have detrimental effects on sesitive fish and has been thought to be one of the causes of hole in the head, lateral line problems and gill burn or rot.

The effects don't readily show up in larger more resilient fishes.

.

- Great Stuff Expanding Foam
There is a few spots of this exposed to the water in my tank, and thus far I don't think it is causing anything to leech into the water. Once fully cured this should not leech anything (or any other expanding foam, but that is just speculation on my part) as it is just styrofoam once it hard.

The manufacturer doen't suggest it for potable water, but after completely cured, I have found no residuals in the water.

The only problem I have had is a large Pleco was eating it...Of course this is also the one that ate thru the resin and fiberglass of a wood tank (either he needs more fiber in his diet or he's bored).

.
I'm not an expert, but I thought I read recently that SiliconeII is unsafe because the antimildew agents are essentially designed to kill bacteria. would love to know more.

When the 'Bio-Seal' breaks down it gets into the water and then into and on the fishes.

Why tempt fate? GE I is readily available.

As for additions...

GE RTV108 extremely good adhesion.

GE IS808 (Aquarium sealer, compare MSDS sheets).

GE 1200 Structural grade (what they use to hold the glass in the big buildings).

Dow Corning 832 multi-surface adhesive sealant (good luck finding it).

These, like pvc and it's associated cleaners/solvents are fish safe once completely cured so don't rush things :grinyes: .

Sodium Thiosulfate (cheap in quantity de-chlorinator used in water softener systems) for big tanks and ponds.

Poly-fil, most air conditioner filter materials (test in water for breakdown if in question).

Vinegar for cleaning calcium residue from tanks and accessories (rinse well).

Chlorine bleach unsented etc. for disinfecting (rinse very well).

Pure ammonia (unscented/non-foaming) for fishless filter cycling.

Harbor Freight (our friend :headbang2: cheap pumps & stuff)

Stuccos, mortars and some concrete if properly cured/etched and/or sealed.

Sanitred tank sealer and waterproofing (cool stuff).

Dr Joe

.

.
 
I've been getting away with using pure polyester batting on my HOT Magnum for some time now. I make sure it doesnt have a fire retardant in it. The foam sleeves are expensive and they dont last - especially if you use flake food and have messy fish like goldfish.

I've heard about the RTV 108 being a great sealant/tank building material.

Can someone explain why some vinyl air tubing and suction cups are now turning white in the water too? I dont remember this happening in the past
 
Ok call me dense. I have DAP-aquarim sealant-100%silicone.( no anti-mildew info on tube). I've been trying to get my first tank up and running for weeks. Combined a UGF with a Magnum 350 Deluxe for 5 baby RES in a 55 gal tank. Must have an air leak(had to "MacGiver" the 2 systems together). Can I seal the connections with the above sealant?_will be underwater. Soooo grateful for any help.
 
AquariaCentral.com