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Nice.

It was huge, really huge. I trimmed it all the way back to let it start from zero. I've got a aponogeton ulvaceus and an undulatus in there. Cut them both pretty far back because of how huge they were. Three weeks with low light and no macros and they shot right for the surface. Cool thing was...

Well, I've been more than remiss in my updates. Life got a little busy for a while and I was focusing on other things. The big items that I haven't updated on are: *At the suggestion of a lot of people(see previous posts in this thread) I shifted the entire hardscape to the left. I like it a...

nice

Free plus shipping, Mixture of duckweed and greater duckweed, coming out of my 120g. I've got a lot, so I can do 2 large packages. $6 for shipping, paypal only. Either ships or goes in the trash tomorrow morning

Oil Dry and SMS are pretty much the same thing. Plenty of people have used both in aquariums. Size, shape, and weight of grain are pretty much identical. I'd go with whatever color you like best and whichever is cheapest for you. Pass on the gravel, you'll hate it.

I picked up 4.

Quick search has all the info you need: http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/search.php?searchid=3794985 How to make it: http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=221528&highlight=drop+checker Where to buy it...

You can't make that statement for many reasons, first of which is that you don't know the circumstances in which it broke. Tempered glass would have still broken, and I would have had a bigger more dangerous mess to clean up. Tempered glass is stronger but it still breaks. I

Actually, non tempered is what you want. Commercially made glass tops are non-tempered. When tempered glass breaks, it shatters into many pieces. Non-tempered glass will just crack. I've cracked a couple of glass tops and it was as simple as removing the two cracked pieces, having another piece...

The answer is YES. You can see it. It's a physical change in appearance. Dude, build your reactor, but be sure you have a 1200 gph pump on it. Just trying to help you out.

Dude, it's gas. Undissolved gas results in bubbles, even small ones that are visible. Dissolved gas can't be seen. You really can see it. If it's not getting dissolve, it looks misty, almost cloudy. If it is getting dissolve it's crystal clear. If you don't trust it, build both reactors and...

If you are wanting to inject CO2 into a 125, you may want try to inject at both ends of the tank. 6 ft tanks can be difficult to get thorough co2 diffusion.

If you can't see bubbles, it's all dissolved. It is like a UV, if the chamber isn't long enough or if the pump/flow is too strong, it won't work. For example, a 500 gph pump is about as high as you want to go for about a 12" reactor. Stronger pump needs a longer chamber.

Well, I can state theoretically why it works, but also I've used that design for a couple of years now and it works great. All co2 stays in the chamber until it is dissolved. Like jrandt, I just don't see your design adding any value. The "original" design as linked dissolves 100% of the CO2...

There's not really any point to your design. All it will do is reduce flow by a very large degree. The design the jbradt linked to results in 100% diffusion if built correctly. Your design will be a headache to build, and truly it will not provide any benefit. Before I used an inline...

You can buy plastic hinges from a lot of places, plastic shops especially. Only a buck or two. Then you can glue them on using gorilla glue. From there just use a glass shop for glass.

:iagree:

That's just inflammatory...he's only going to have to clean up like 18 gallons. :dance:

Yes, it sounds about right. However, you may still want to get a drop checker. I use a pH controller and a drop checker so that I can get exactly where I want. The other method, of course, is to slowly lower your pH down via co2 over the course of a couple of days(always watching the tank...