150 Gallon Build Thread ... From the Start

DrVader said:
Really interesting idea Luc, and thanks for posting details of your setup!

Major obstacle in our case would be matching up tubing diamters. The reactors use 1/2 ID in/out and the bleed valve is for airline tubing.... hmmm, time to research on the web...
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Just when I about have everything copied ... there he goes again. :lipssealedsmilie::lipssealedsmilie:
 
"Major obstacle in our case would be matching up tubing diamters. The reactors use 1/2 ID in/out and the bleed valve is for airline tubing.... hmmm, time to research on the web..."

Lol....I forgot that you guys being professional and all don't mere look at the common man's setup with a hose-line connector, an airline tube of USD 0.10 p/ meter and some Lowe's silicone to seal the plastic connector into the line now do you...
Brass, Glass and Glitters...nothing less...

heheee
 
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But serious....the loop back into the water-line should just stay at airline-tube diameter.
the connection can be a simple hole where you plug in one of those green plastic hose connectors, or you just stick the tube itself in (which I did) for about 0.5 inch and then seal it with silicone.

Just be sure that your airline-tube is going with the waterflow in, not against...(obviously)...
Can't prove it with pictures but part of this is working because of the airline-tube being in the waterflow causing a pull on the airline-tube and therefore sucking the air from the reactor-chamber.
 
Luc said:
Just added some to my thread on the 99Gallon...might as well post a part here regarding the CO2-reactor.

As you've seen, I just put it together from scrap I had lying around.

"CO2 reactor is working perfect. Like DrVader's commercial unit (and Coy's unit as well), with the difference that the bleed-line is running back into the water-loop before the reactor and this just takes any air-buildup after a restart away in a couple of minutes.
It might be worth considering this on the commercial unit DrVader, Coy.....Just loop the bleeding valve, plump it in a Y fitting to make sure it 'pulls' air, not pushes water in...then runs into the reactor-chamber again.
Never any gas-buildup during operation, even with a power-drop and restart (tested a dozen times and more yesterday), it will automatically calibrate/empty itself within minutes. Build up air/CO2 is 'mixed out' in about 10 minutes while CO2 keeps running.
(on power-off, I have about 2 inch of air buildup because of back-flow and syphon-break in the line. No problem at all.)
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Luc, how exactly did you seal the airline tubing to your inline plumbing? You had the advantage of a hardline (while we've used flexible tubing)... bore hole plus silicone maybe?
 
Luc said:
"Major obstacle in our case would be matching up tubing diamters. The reactors use 1/2 ID in/out and the bleed valve is for airline tubing.... hmmm, time to research on the web..."

Lol....I forgot that you guys being professional and all don't mere look at the common man's setup with a hose-line connector, an airline tube of USD 0.10 p/ meter and some Lowe's silicone to seal the plastic connector into the line now do you...
Brass, Glass and Glitters...nothing less...

heheee
Click to expand...

:lol:

So true.... that answers my question though. I really nice DIY add-on!
 
Dr.Vader, yes indeed, pinch a small hole and silicone a small airline-hose connector just into the tube itself.
Both ideas should work fine though and I like it to have the hose a bit deeper inside the tube.

If you use a hose-connector, cut the part going inside the tube in a shape that 'stimulates' suction on the line. (Just check a powerhead airtube-inlet, they're normally shaped to optimize airsuction) Even better, just use that part and silicone it into your tube.

(Added a picture with flex-tube and a threaded fitting + silicone. No leaking at all)

IMGP6305.jpg
 
Opening a can of worms that would make your fish sick....no Microsoft for me...
But that might have to be put into a different thread.
 
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