29 gallon Plant Planning Fiasco

[MidnightPyro]

I bought a 29 gallon to replace my 20 gallon which is leaking. The 20 gallon was planted, but I had a post before attempting to diagnose the problems with the plants. Given those plants all look pretty grim and chance of survival is slim, I've decided to restart with the 29 gallon and plan for that to be planted. The 20 gallon was lit by a 20 watt AquaGlo light (which I figured out is 18000K - which, apparantly would not be good for plants.)

I've been looked at a glass top and a power compact light fixture. There doesn't seem to be any NO lights that would meet the needs of a 29 gallon aquarium I've been looking at the CoraLife or the Sattelite (both 1x65W, for 2.24 wpg. Although the Sattelite has a moonlight.) Any more suggestions would be welcomed though, although a few more things...
a.) What kelvin to get the bulbs at. I've heard 6700k is your best bet, but I've also heard that between 6500k-10000k it doesn't make a lick of difference. Right now, the 18000k light bulb in the twenty gallon looks okay for me, if a bit dim.
b.) I'm assuming some sort of fertilizer would be recommended. I've been looking at Eco-Complete mixed with the normal gravel substrate I have now, or (or in addition to) root fertilzer tabs.
c.) I'm not real big on a CO2 injector, so I'd most likely add Flourish Excel to the water if it's needed, although I don't know whether it is or not.

I'm really wondering about the light, or if there's anything else I'm overlooking or if anyone has any I'm not really too sure what types of plant to put in. In the 20 gallon, I just had Jungle Valenria and Anacharis, neither of which did very well at all. I'd probably stick with more hardy low-maintenance plants - whatever they sell at the pet stores/LFS (which really isn't very much).

Thanks!

 

[djlen]

a. 6500k is said to look the most like natural sunlight and is pleasing to many people's eye. Anything between 3000k - 10000k will grow plants, however.
b. augmenting nutrients will depend on wattage, fish load, plant type and amount of plants, plus a few other variables of less importance. Eco-complete is a nice choice and an effective one. Root tabs are not necessary at all, IMO.
c. CO2 injection only becomes more necessary for tanks with higher light levels. CO2 can and will aid in the growth of plants in any light level. It's just not as necessary at lower levels.
If you're going to be in the 2 - 3wpg range, Excel will do a nice job for you.
The plant types you choose should depend on the light level you intend eventually to have over the tank. Everything revolves, in some way, around light type and level.
Before you buy a fixture for your tank, check this site:
www.ahsupply.com/
Possibly you can retro-fit your present hood with a kit, probably for considerably less money than buying one ready made.

Len

 

[bladeruner143]

Before you buy a fixture for your tank, check this site:
www.ahsupply.com/
Possibly you can retro-fit your present hood with a kit, probably for considerably less money than buying one ready made.

Len

hey len, those kits from ashsupply.com, do they need some kind of glass to be put underneath them or can they just be placed over the tank without anything between them? iask this because i am gonna get them, which i recommend also for your situation.

 

[yohkos]

I have the sattelite and I like it but the moonlight isn't anything to brag about. So don't buy it for that because it doesn't really do anything. Kinda like a pen light and that is it. But the lights makes the aquarium look nice and clear.

Kim

I also use coralife lights compact and like them too.

 

[f8ldzz]

hey len, those kits from ashsupply.com, do they need some kind of glass to be put underneath them or can they just be placed over the tank without anything between them?

Uh, any lighting needs to have a barrier to protect them from direct contact with the tank water and minimize moisture exposure.
You really don't want to see what water can do when it hits a hot bulb!

 

[Aries]

You really don't want to see what water can do when it hits a hot bulb!

I have seen this happen in other applications by accident and the glass shattered - not a pretty site. If that happens to your aquarium - that would be a mess. You DEFINATELY want a glass top or other barrier.

a. 6500k is said to look the most like natural sunlight and is pleasing to many people's eye. Anything between 3000k - 10000k will grow plants, however.

Agreed! Anything lower looks too yellow and higher is more blue.

b.) I'm assuming some sort of fertilizer would be recommended. I've been looking at Eco-Complete mixed with the normal gravel substrate I have now, or (or in addition to) root fertilzer tabs.

Depending on plants and what method you want. I have heard swords are heavy root feeders - thus root tabs help. BEWARE - do NOT disturb the area of the root tab because doing so could release lots of nutrients into the water column thus causing algae problems. Eco-Complete I heard is good. However, some report ph adjustments. I use flourite which is a wee bit cheaper.

c.) I'm not real big on a CO2 injector, so I'd most likely add Flourish Excel to the water if it's needed, although I don't know whether it is or not.

Excel is apparently incompatible with some plants - beware. Anacharis and Vals are most affected from what I have just learned. Why are you against CO2 gas?

The plant types you choose should depend on the light level you intend eventually to have over the tank. Everything revolves, in some way, around light type and level.

Agreed. Determine your lights then get your plants. Note: A 29G tank is a tall one - so you will need a bit more light than the rule supplies. Prebuilt lights are great if this is your first one - high power light that is. I prefer building my now because it is cheaper and easier. But I did buy a custom sealife light (now defunct) first for my 30G. Avoid acitic - while it may not harm - it does not help either. Plus I read they die earlier and may cause algae issues. I can not confirm any of this regarding acitinic - just report what others say.

 

[djlen]

Not only do you not want moisture to reach the lighting. You want to put a barrier between the lighting and the surface of the water. Those CF lights can get hot.
I'm going to install an extra ceiling fan in my fish room next summer. I can't deal with another year of stress over 85° and sometimes a bit higher water temperatures.
BTW, not only will you save some money by building your lighting, but the reflectors that come from AH Supply are, IMO the best around.
Measure your present fixture's inside dimensions and call and they will tell you what will fit in the box.

Len

 

[MidnightPyro]

Excel is apparently incompatible with some plants - beware. Anacharis and Vals are most affected from what I have just learned. Why are you against CO2 gas?

From what I've heard, it's expensive and difficult to inject CO2 into the water. Not true?

 

[sardesign]

Light possibilities

If you decide not to retrofit a light (or hood), I own a Current USA Orbit (brother of the satellite). It has two compact flourescents @ 65 watts that will give you 4.3 watts per gallon. I have that fixture for my 20 Long tank and my plants definetly don't die, but I'm having tons of problems with algae (possibly because my tank is fairly new). I also use Excel instead of CO2 because of the size of the tank. However, for my 125 gallon tank, I will most likely be using CO2 once I get the light that I need for the tank.

 

[Aries]

For a 29G, you could do DIY CO2 - which will be cheaper than presurized CO2. How much I dont know because I do not use DIY CO2.

Cost is relative (for some it is worth it - for others it is mearly a dream).

My setup for CO2 - pressurized
Tank 5lb - local $50 (I have seen up to $90 for same tank).
Fill - local - $10
Regulator - People like milwakee or jbj - each for about say $80. This includes solenoid, bubble counter and regulator and needle valve. Just need either one.
Tubing - I use plain silicone tubing - $3 max.
Custom Built external reactor - $15 (many directions online for this)

Total = ~ $158 for pressurized co2. DIY is cheaper because from what I understand there is no tank or regulator (correct me if I am wrong users of DIY CO2)...but messier and is inconsistant when it gets low.

Then there is Hagen natural plant system which uses blocks to create co2.

There are many options with each their cost benifit. Excel is definately the cheapest but IMO most limiting and annoying to use.

Good Luck

Aries