30G New Set Up - just want to make sure I'm okay

[caps]

Hi everyone,

I thought I would put up my details so if there is anything alarming, the experts on this forum can provide some guidance.

30Gallon Tank (Running 5 days)
First 2 days no fish just water with filter/heater/air pump also added
3 cap full of Aqua+ and 3 cap full of cycle.
Day 2 readings: PH-8 NO2-0.3 NH3/4-0.25
Day 3 added:
1 Zebra Dino (Wiggly)
1 Red Comet Platy (Milina)
1 Silver Lyretaic Malty (Slidy)
Day 4 reading: PH 8 NO2-0.3 NH3/4-1.5
Day 5 added:
1 Leopard Tuxedo Guppy (not named yet)
1 Red Cobra Guppy (not named yet)
2 Panda Cory (cutie & Putie)
Prior to placing fish in tank added 3 caps of cycle.

I feed the fish twice a day (morning and night) with a combination of flakes, frozen blood worms. Just purchased freezed dryed shrimp and plankton which I will also introduce into diet. Water Temperature average 26-27(C).

The filter is an AquaClear150 with filter and (amrid ammonia remover)

I hope I havent rushed into stocking the tank with fish to quick and I'm hoping the ammonia levels go down shortly. Anyway I plan on water changes once a week and since the tank is a used one (from my brother) I plan on replacing the filters inside 1 by 1 next week. (i've read you cant change all the filters inside all at once.

looking forward to some comments and guidance.

 

[Hannys_Papa]

I suggest to read the cycle sticky ASAP and so some additional reading on the web.

To complete the cycle and have those numbers go down could take 4-6 weeks.

If you want to save those fish - better start doing 50% waterchanges daily or even more.

I'm not familiar with Aqua+ but i'd try to find some "PRIME" water conditioner - it'll help a little with the toxicity of the ammonia and nitrite.

 

[magb321]

Not saying that Hannys Papa is wrong but 50% is just too much for me, 20% will do it, althought leave the water with some anti-chlorine sitting from 12-24 hours in a bucket or some sort of container , i would suggest after you do the water change leave the water sitting so you can change it the next day at the same time.

Salute

 

[caps]

I'm trying to read as much as possible!!!

I read the cycle lable and followed the instructions to the letter.
cycle plus is a water conditioner, I assume just like prime but I'll try to get my hands on some.

50% water change daily! I guess this has to be done until the ammonia levels are down?

thanks for your help

 

[Roan Art]

I'm trying to read as much as possible!!!

I read the cycle lable and followed the instructions to the letter.
cycle plus is a water conditioner, I assume just like prime but I'll try to get my hands on some.

50% water change daily! I guess this has to be done until the ammonia levels are down?

thanks for your help

Yes, and the nitrite levels. Both ammonia and nitrites will kill your fish.

Don't add any more fish.

Roan

 

[Roan Art]

Not saying that Hannys Papa is wrong but 50% is just too much for me, 20% will do it, althought leave the water with some anti-chlorine sitting from 12-24 hours in a bucket or some sort of container , i would suggest after you do the water change leave the water sitting so you can change it the next day at the same time.

Actually, 20% won't do it. The ammonia and nitrites have to come down to as close to 0 as possible or s/he will lose fish.

Roan

 

[caps]

What's the right levels

Thanks for all the feedback, I have already prepared the water in a bucket for the water change tommorow, I'll do a 30% change.

I do have a question about your comments Roan Art about getting my levels as close to 0 as possible. (obviously that's the goal and would be ideal)
However I purchased a pretty detailed test package (Tetra test) which has all the test's and what levels each should be at.

For No2 (Nitrate) it says'
"Ideally nitrite levels should be kept below 0.8 mg/l. If the nitrite level is above 1.6 mg/l. (then it goes into an explanation on doing a partial water change and a couple of other options depending on the severity.
My No2 is 0.3 so I thought my nitrate level was fine, so who's right?
and if my package is wrong then what elso should I not believe.

Once again thanks for all the feedback and I hope I'm not harming the cycle more then I'm helping.

 

[Roan Art]

For No2 (Nitrate) it says'
"Ideally nitrite levels should be kept below 0.8 mg/l. If the nitrite level is above 1.6 mg/l. (then it goes into an explanation on doing a partial water change and a couple of other options depending on the severity.
My No2 is 0.3 so I thought my nitrate level was fine, so who's right?
and if my package is wrong then what elso should I not believe.

First of all, nitrates are NO3, not NO2.

Secondly, your package is either wrong, or giving you information that corresponds to how the testing kit reads. In other words, it may not be capable of reading 0 properly. I don't know. I use Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, Red Sea, and Sea Chem.

A nitrite level of .3 is too high. Anything above 0 is too high. How badly it will affect your fish will depend on how long they are in that water and what kind of fish they are. Some are more sensitive to nitrites and ammonia than others. Some fish are more sensitive to nitrates than ammonia and nitrites.

Since you are cycling, the best you can probably do is .25, which is, IMHO, the bare maximum you should allow in your tank for a short period of time. Same for ammonia, NH3 and NH4, no more than .25 or you will have very sick fish. If you can get it below that, then your fish will have a better chance of surviving.

Nitrates should be no more than 20ppm ever. Anything higher than that can be toxic to the fish, especially bottom dwellers.

Roan

 

[caps]

I stand corrected

Roan Art you are correct my apologies, I just realized I made an error in my posting my nitrite level is 0.3 not my nitrate. My test does not include a test for nitrate.

I will continue to do 20-30% water changes daily until the levels come down.

 

[Roan Art]

Roan Art you are correct my apologies, I just realized I made an error in my posting my nitrite level is 0.3 not my nitrate. My test does not include a test for nitrate.

Nitrates are very important so it would be a good idea to put a testing kit for those on your list of "must haves".

I will continue to do 20-30% water changes daily until the levels come down.

I would do 50%. You have to remember that when you add water to the tank you are diluting what is already there. So if your nitrites are at .3, 50% will put you at .125 and more in control. A 20% change will only put you at .24 and you will go over that by the next day. Remember, the lower the better for the fish and you need to try to keep it below .25 as much as possible -- lower than that if you can.

Roan