4300 Gallon Plywood Build (3600+ Take 2)

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James0816

AC Members
Feb 14, 2007
3,413
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Starting the second guess the acrylic may be viable at this point considering everything you have done already inside. Coat after coat and you're still getting the leak.

Man I hate to ask...but how hard would it be to pull it and reseal? Just the thought of it...ouch!

Other than that...Gunner has a good point as well with structural integrity. The volume of the water expanding the frame quite possibly opening pin holes in the seams. But I'd like to think with all the coats on it, it should be covered.
 

Nolapete

Monster Tank Builder
May 29, 2007
5,274
1
0
New Orleans, LA
Starting the second guess the acrylic may be viable at this point considering everything you have done already inside. Coat after coat and you're still getting the leak.

Man I hate to ask...but how hard would it be to pull it and reseal? Just the thought of it...ouch!

Other than that...Gunner has a good point as well with structural integrity. The volume of the water expanding the frame quite possibly opening pin holes in the seams. But I'd like to think with all the coats on it, it should be covered.
After all the coats I just did, I've eliminated the possibility of pin holes anywhere. I never thought it was pin holes, but rather a void that the coating was able to be "ballooned" through albeit a tiny one.

I'm going to use some visquene and 1x2's instead of 2x6 and pond liner. It'll be easier to work with and I won't have to cannibalize the liner section I have any more than it already has been.
 

Arkangel77

AC Members
Aug 13, 2006
867
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Sounds Good Pete!
 

CWO4GUNNER

USN/USCG 1974-2004 Weps
If I ever build a tank structure like yours It would be one self supporting structure including the acrylic viewing port. This way stress and expansion would be consistent within the structure. only the viewing port would be against the house with a 2-4 inch foam expansion-joint to make it look like it was built in. This way once the tank is filled all moment stops and stabilizes and stress movement on seals stop.

But in your case by having wall and there for the entire house structure attached to the tank movement at the attachment point and its sealing joints never stabilizes or stops. Every time the house expands, contracts from heat and cold, wind or tremors it acts like a big drum sending inconsistent movement through the tank, like the dog (house) waging the tail (tank).

This is why mobile homes which are really two separate constructed halves can never be joined without a split occurring in the drywall joint no matter how well the are attached after the fact, so a soffit expansion joint is used to hide the crack that expands and contracts continually. Once you separate the tank as a stand alone independent structure, the seals will be stable, stop moving, cure properly, and remain sealed.
 
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Nolapete

Monster Tank Builder
May 29, 2007
5,274
1
0
New Orleans, LA
But in your case by having wall and there for the entire house structure attached to the tank movement at the attachment point and its sealing joints never stabilizes or stops. Every time the house expands, contracts from heat and cold, wind or tremors it acts like a big drum sending inconsistent movement through the tank, like the dog (house) waging the tail (tank).
It's not built like you think. The tank is not built into the structure of the house. The only attachment points are the drywall and the one 2x4 that is bolted to the slab. The entire house could be blown away and the tank would stand by itself. See http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2143164&postcount=38
 

Nolapete

Monster Tank Builder
May 29, 2007
5,274
1
0
New Orleans, LA
The other part of why your assumptions are incorrect CW is that we don't have the extremes in temperature that you're referring to nor is my house moved by wind or tremors. The tank is not moving nor is it being wagged like the tail of a dog. I'd appreciate if you'd refrain from making statements that have no basis in reality.
 

aquanooby

AC Members
Jul 24, 2009
392
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0
columbia South carolina
Real Name
lew
seems like you're on the right path with the window. Isn't troubleshooting fun :)
 

CWO4GUNNER

USN/USCG 1974-2004 Weps
Ill refrain from giving you anymore good advice on your project becasue you've asked me, even tough you have already decided to take some of past my advice in hope of correcting the problem. The fact that any curing tank seal or seals can be compromised by a structure the tank is either sitting on or attached to when unperceived moment is involved, is something that has been well documented, all you have to do is research it on this forum. Albeit, as you wish I wont provide you anymore useful information.
 

The Zigman

Here fishy fishy fishy!!!
Oct 5, 2007
5,249
7
62
Near Chicago, Il.
www.uglymuggs.com
The other part of why your assumptions are incorrect CW is that we don't have the extremes in temperature that you're referring to nor is my house moved by wind or tremors. The tank is not moving nor is it being wagged like the tail of a dog. I'd appreciate if you'd refrain from making statements that have no basis in reality.

all structures settle over time, and even a small movement can create huge problems down the line. What he is saying is if your tank is attached to the house, it will settle with the house, and a small movement can flex your tank structure enough to cause a leak. The floor could settle somewhat when the tank is filled, resulting in some flex therefore causing a leak... any number of things could be causing it. I am sure the house wasn't designed to handle the static load of 4300 gallons of water, plus all of the materials used in the tanks construction.
 
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