50/50 idea

Plants in SW for the most part is algae. Most of the nicer algae is actually pretty difficult to care for, as odd as that may sound. Soft corals are, in my opinion, actually easier to keep than most macro algae that one would use in a display tank. The easier macro algae, like chaeto and caulerpa is easy to grow, but extremely invasive in a display tank and is used for nutrient reduction in sumps. The only "plant" that I know of that is common in SW are Mangroves. There are also sea grasses but those seem to be difficult to keep. Amphiprion on here has a sea grass tank going, I believe a 25G tank with an MP40 powerhead (up to 3000 GPH) and he has difficulty keeping some grasses alive and has said the flow is very limiting when the grass grows in.

Plants for SW links
http://www.saltwaterfish.com/Plants_c_44.html
http://reefcleaners.org/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=6&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=34

The best advice I think to give anyone, is start out as slow as possible. If it takes a year to get the tank going with rock, filters, flow, and lighting, that really just helps the tank mature. The instinct everyone has of wanting to rush out and put a fish in the tank is the worst thing to do. To be the most successful I think fish should be one of the last things to put into a tank after doing LOTS of research on what fish you want and compatibility with your system. To start out a 120G on a limited budget to ensure the most success with livestock I would first add a few pieces of rock, at least one piece being live rock to seed the others, sand, the biggest powerhead you can afford, heater, and standard light.

You want to get the aquarium from sterile to habitable and with just a single piece of good live rock and lots of time and patience, that will get the tank started. After the tank is started I would add dry rock as $ allows until you feel you have enough. I would say 50-60lbs would be a good goal for what you want to do. Once you have added all the rock and let it mature for a couple months (it takes time for dry rock to become live again), work on getting the rest of the equipment you will need, light, powerheads, filtration. The standard light that comes with it is fine for getting the tank cycled and for a fish only tank, but for corals your going to need more. If your just going to focus on soft corals, mushrooms, xenia, green star polyps, all of which are the best type of coral around predators as they tend not to touch them, then you could get by with a 150 MH, or LEDs, or about 4 24" T5HOs. During this time of getting equipment you can add a couple snails, crabs, etc to give you something to look at and to help clean the tank some.. but they will become lunch to eels and puffers so don't spend a lot of $ on a clean up crew if your plans are for predator fish.
 
Thank you.. your a great help but i was thinkin buyin alight and instead of havin a huge straight up rock mound put some kind of plastic container nd cut it out fish/water can go threw but it would make the rock seam much bigger and it wouldnt be expensive and as i get more rock i could just expand it to the other side and stuff like that. but would a porcupine eat anytype of plant/coral? and the plant the lfs has kinda looks like one of those cactie that grows in segments. Also the light i looked at was on aquatraders.com and it was $100 and it was 156W if im not mistaken. ill put a link up hopefullly

*its actually 178watts*
 
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Personally, I do not like those lights.. they are cheap.. but past issues (which are now resolved) have left me with a bad taste for that company. The first thing you need to do with those lights is take out the bulbs, put them away and use only as "emergency" bulbs, and replace them with high end name brand bulbs like UVL, Geiseman, KZ, ATI, etc. www.hellolights.com and www.marinedepot.com have a good selection of bulbs. That is the biggest complaint I hear about those fixtures today.. bulbs are terrible and replacing them immediately will give you about 2x the light output AND much better coloring.

As much as I don't like those fixtures, I can't say "don't buy one" because many others have bought them in the past 12-24 months and not had any issues at all with the fixture itself.. just the cheap bulbs.

On to the porcupine puffer, they don't eat plants as far as I know.. they love crabs and snails and will eat small fish. That is and always will be my #1 favorite fish.. it is the dog of the ocean.. the most personality I have ever seen in a fish. So much fun!
 
Thank you ace... youve been a invaluable help. I went on ebay and there are GREAT deals on Led's,skimmers, lights, etc... and i used to have(idk if i still have them) the double bulbs for the nano cube 24 nd i have/had quiet a few of those... and if:
i got a skimmer what else would i need? sumps confuse the _____(fill in the blank wit whatever you feel appropriat) out of me so i wouldnt really want to make one of those, also because i cant drill my tank.
If i got Led's would i need more light(i dont think i do but jus the idea of leds lighting a reef just seems bizzar to me.


I am also finding pumps for alot cheaper on there which is a big reason why i didnt wanna have 3-4 pumps like you suggested. i also think if i get alot of pumps ill put the huge pumps on the opposite end of the coral and then have some ike 800gph pumps up closer to the coral. Also do corals need suppliments or just light?
 
on LED lights would that work for this tank even tho its so deep? or would i be better off gettin a halide

the tank is 2ft tall btw
 
LEDs would work.. but fixtures are not cheap and DIY is still not as cheap as a MH. I would stick with that fixture you posted instead of thinking about LEDs if your on a budget.

One thing you don't want to skimp on $ wise is equipment. In this hobby, it really is "you get what you pay for" 99% of the time. Cheap pumps fail and leak voltage into the water. Replacement parts are hard to come by. That doesn't mean you have to buy quality equipment at new prices though. Right now people are getting out of the hobby by the truck loads and you can get some sweet deals on quality equipment for pennies on the dollar. Check craigslist or better yet, try to find a local reef club forum or see if there is one in your area on reefcentral forums.
 
-I was thinking about getting a Jawfish of some kind, 25 blue legged hermit crabs, 5-10 turbo snails, and a fish that swims around alot(i need help on this one especially)
-I was thinking about getting a 75/25 ratio of baserock to live rock from liverockranch.com
-Also is live sand necessary even if i got live rock?
-This is my biggest question: what are my other options for filtration if i didnt get a turf scrubber?
 
A jawfish would become food for a predator real quick. Also jawfish require you to close the top of your tank somehow to protect them from jumping out of the tank. Jawfish are super jumpy fish.

Your rock idea sounds good to me..

Live sand is not necessary, actually, most people would say live sand is a waste of $ (myself included) because live rock will make dry sand into live sand.

Without a scrubber, whose main purpose is to remove phosphates and nitrates from the water but does do many other secondary things, you would need some type of media/reactor to do the job. Without having a sump, something like Bio-Pellets is out of the question, so your pretty much stuck with one of the the original methods for filtering a tank. Hang on back skimmer, a media reactor of some type, and use carbon (ROX preferably) and GFO and do regular small weekly water changes.
 
ok i went to the LFS nd they have a large turf scrubber for 500 which i think i will get that. but the lights there were 200 which i saw the same thing for about 70ish so i think im gonna get those online and the employee was really cool nd all and he said that i would need a hob filter for mechanical stuff which i was thinkin a AC110? or should i get a canistar(i already have a magnum 350) and the LFS has a awesome bumble bee grouper but its really expensive and they get way too big but do any other groupers act the way those do?
+would a UV steralizer be harmful to the algea in the scrubber?
 
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