$50 craiglist 225 tank/cabinet/canopy DIY refurbish

Just as I was finishing the cabinet floor rebuild with new center boxed framing supports to prevent sag and almost ready to start gel chemical striping, It starts to rain "in the desert"! Hope a little the rain doesn't hurt the dry cabinet.

Well I found a piece of paneling to cover it just as the rain slows of course. I new for this job I should have use Gorilla glue which gets stronger when wet instead of Elmer's carpenter wood glue which is not water resistant until fully dry, hope the glue doesn't turn to paste. Where are the paste eaters when you need them lol (jest).
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Wood screws from the inside would help - imo
 
Arkangel77 said:
Wood screws from the inside would help - imo
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Did that on the center, was just waiting on the sides to dry so I can remove the clamps get my big hands in there with a screw driver and wood screws. Should have used Gorilla Glue as the Elmer's almost hard on the outside dribble has turned to milk:duh:, whereas Gorilla glue would have just penetrated even deeper and cured faster as it uses water as a catalyst. Since carpentry is not my stong point I always back any and every joint and connection with glue which seem to make things rock solid, usually.

Luckily everything else was already dry and backed with 2.5 inch finisher nails. Yesterday I was worried about things getting too dry in the 110 degree heat, now its too wet LOL. Ahh, it should be fine.
 
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Sounds like you will be OK - I have never used G Glue but my Dad said it works well! I built my stand and hood and used lotsa wood Glue but it was my shop so It did not get wet.

Arkangel77
 
I found a label inside the cabinet and found out who made the tank and cabinet "Lee-Mar Stands and Glass Tanks". I have contacted them to try and date how old it is by sending them a photo of the doors which have and unusual design. Also asking what they think of my bottom glass replacement plan using tempered and capping rather then floating the bottom glass.
http://www.gettankedaz.com/
 
Taking a brake from chemical striping the cabinet with my power washer. This thing had at least 3 layers of different varnish and polyurethane to protect it from the tank leaks. I think I have taken off 10% of the wood along with the finish LOL. Im still not done and its going to take some sanding to smooth out the pressure wash peel (caracter) LOL. Just one dot of this stripper get on your skin and it like Alien spit on you, time to wash it off as its burning!

All in all though it much easier, if I had to do this by hand Id bee seeing an orthopedic surgeon from all the joint damage as it would have taken a week by hand. Pics later.
 
What Kinda Stripper is it?
 
Well this is about as far as I can go with the chem stripper "Klean Strip 15 Minute Stripper". I have tried other brands that claim 5 minutes industrial strength and they are all a waste of money. You brush blob this stuff on thick and slowly one pass only so as not to splash and with your free hand spray 50% denatured alcohol and RO water (save money) to keep the surface moist for at least 10 minutes and it will blister the heck out of the surface finish. When this stuff land on bare skin you know it in about 5 seconds so have a soaking wet rag ready to wipe it off. After its stops blistering its time to use the pressure washer only on private ground no driveways or streets. since this chemical is mineral spirits based 99.9% evaporates into the atmosphere after it hits the ground. This was about 5 times harder to strip then my last cabinet refinish as the owner told me he repeatedly placed varnish and shellac on the cabinet in his barn so the leaking salt water (due to faulty plumbing he said:silly:) would just flow off the cabinet into the sump and back into the tank. Normally the stripper and power washer gets it all off but this stuff was like fiberglass resin. Anyway a day electric sanding and it will be time to stain.
http://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=72&prodid=117

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Finished installing new supports, electric sanding with my 1986 Sears model sander which bearings are about dead finally, and finished staining the exterior and cabinet door. Tomorrow will add the 3/4 inch birch hardwood top, part of the total reinforce rebuild that will make this stand substantially (5X) stronger then the way Lee-Mar Aquariums & Stands originally "custom" built it. In my opinion the perimeter design they used with minimal vertical and cross member stud supports using inferior non-dimensional inside lumber (any old boards) and almost no center supports to prevent sag, on top of this they hardly used any nails (4) but rather 1 inch staples which just pulled apart. The stand in its original design was destined to cause a tank failure for 1800 pound tank IMO.

I say this becasue when I compare the way this stand was made to my 12 year old 125 gallon Oceanic stand and tank the superior design materials and finish are striking. Now I see where the Oceanic representative I spoke with on the phone was coming from when he said a solid one piece reinforced (not perimeter) top was the only way to go if you want your tank to last and not fail. My 12 year old Oceanic a testate to that fact no leaks top to bottom from the original tank seals.Compared to this Lee-Mar which is just a few years old I'm now convinced that when it comes to large tanks 75+ a solid (not perimeter) base is the only way to go especially if its length is beyond 48 inches.

Tomorrow I hope to get the Polyurethane coat on and should have photos, then it will be time to turn my attention to the tank itself, the real scary part.:nilly:
 
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