$50 craiglist 225 tank/cabinet/canopy DIY refurbish
- Thread starter CWO4GUNNER
- Start date
I finished cleaning the panels enough that I felt tomorrow I would chem strip the blue paint off the back glass something I was not looking forward to yet knew that properly applied paint is difficult to remove even using a 4" T-handle razor blade. But before quitting for the day decided to try the blade to see how tough it is to get off. Well apparently becasue the glass had been facing the sun the paint was warm and so pliable that it just rolled up like plastic runners on the end of my 4" blade. I mean I was able to make 72" runs without stopping tossing each roll of blue paint into the trash bag. The whole job took me about 10 minutes LOL.
As far as the inside reseal job when finished with glass replacement, is it OK to use one of those bathroom application corner tools that lays a 3/8" rectangular bead, or do I have to make it broad and messy with my fingers. I tried looking for a 1/2" spreader tool but they don't make them that wide. Anyone know what the standard width should be for inside corner silicone application. If I know the width then I can make my own tool out of plastic or wood and get nice consistent runs instead of these squiggly fat runs you see, or is there a point to that?
As far as the inside reseal job when finished with glass replacement, is it OK to use one of those bathroom application corner tools that lays a 3/8" rectangular bead, or do I have to make it broad and messy with my fingers. I tried looking for a 1/2" spreader tool but they don't make them that wide. Anyone know what the standard width should be for inside corner silicone application. If I know the width then I can make my own tool out of plastic or wood and get nice consistent runs instead of these squiggly fat runs you see, or is there a point to that?
Up at dawn usually for my morning workout but glass polishing does nicely for upper body and even cardio. This is my only chance to polish the inside glass as much as possible before the tank is filled, even though I did a light polishing on the outside I will have all the time in the word to do the outside. It the inside is where the mineral deposits are usually in light consistent haze except for the waterline which usually has some mineral damage, that is to say that the minerals have inbeded so far into the glass that when polished out you have blurry orange peel pits the size of salt grains or worse. The smother you get these areas the easier it will be to clean the inside with a magnet cleaner and also keep algae from getting an wasy foothold on the glass, not to mention a clearer view.
New Discoveries & Reconsideration's: As previously stated one great thing about polishing used aquarium glass are the stories it tells you about how it was used. I couldn't figure out why the front glass haze was so inconsistent and not the usual uniform pattern, but rather splotchy with an almost drip or splash pattern. It also took allot more polishing to get these minerals off and in one spot the was orange peel damage about the size of a quarter in the left canter of the tank glass, a mystery.
After removing all the blue paint on the back last night this morning daylight revealed the final clues as the back glass was far worse with multiple orange peel spots and more haze that had to be polished out. But the clues were clear now and it was plain to see that sometime after this tank had cracked on the privious owner, he must have been maintaining reptiles inside the tank for a short period of time.
I say a short period of time meaning probubly a year or less as anymore and the tank would have been completely scratched up and much more water damaged. But this explained the strange splash patterns on the glass. I know for the most part both mineral damage in the form of haze and worse orange peel for the most part is not visible once water is introduced, however clarity suffers.
Each time I do a 20 minute polishing cession on the inside panel and wipe it off the haze removal becomes more crystal clear with very noticeable improvement, so I am doing more hand polishing cessions then I expected but should be completed today. I do wish I had a new safe (plastic) power polisher as I would never chance using my Dad's old 1960's heavy (20Lbs) high torque all metal polisher on glass.
Another discovery is after cleaning up the bottom glass a little it is plainly evident that the bottom portion of glass that is still intact (24X60) can only be used for a bottom glass repair as it is far too scratched by gravel to even consider as viewing glass. So that takes care of that option lost which presents me with a new problem on repairing the walnut size chip at the vary bottom of the end panel, the old flip over plan my be back on the table, or once I remove the old bottom glass I will have a better idea if it possible to use the fiberglass filler to repair the chip and simply use the end pane as is.
New Discoveries & Reconsideration's: As previously stated one great thing about polishing used aquarium glass are the stories it tells you about how it was used. I couldn't figure out why the front glass haze was so inconsistent and not the usual uniform pattern, but rather splotchy with an almost drip or splash pattern. It also took allot more polishing to get these minerals off and in one spot the was orange peel damage about the size of a quarter in the left canter of the tank glass, a mystery.
After removing all the blue paint on the back last night this morning daylight revealed the final clues as the back glass was far worse with multiple orange peel spots and more haze that had to be polished out. But the clues were clear now and it was plain to see that sometime after this tank had cracked on the privious owner, he must have been maintaining reptiles inside the tank for a short period of time.
I say a short period of time meaning probubly a year or less as anymore and the tank would have been completely scratched up and much more water damaged. But this explained the strange splash patterns on the glass. I know for the most part both mineral damage in the form of haze and worse orange peel for the most part is not visible once water is introduced, however clarity suffers.
Each time I do a 20 minute polishing cession on the inside panel and wipe it off the haze removal becomes more crystal clear with very noticeable improvement, so I am doing more hand polishing cessions then I expected but should be completed today. I do wish I had a new safe (plastic) power polisher as I would never chance using my Dad's old 1960's heavy (20Lbs) high torque all metal polisher on glass.
Another discovery is after cleaning up the bottom glass a little it is plainly evident that the bottom portion of glass that is still intact (24X60) can only be used for a bottom glass repair as it is far too scratched by gravel to even consider as viewing glass. So that takes care of that option lost which presents me with a new problem on repairing the walnut size chip at the vary bottom of the end panel, the old flip over plan my be back on the table, or once I remove the old bottom glass I will have a better idea if it possible to use the fiberglass filler to repair the chip and simply use the end pane as is.
It sounds like everything is coming on well Gunner, i'm looking forward to seeing it finished.
I would use an old credit card, cut one corner to the size of the bead you want.
this project appears to be going very nicely. i cannot wait for the finished project!!!!
i was going to suggest cutting a 45 degree angle off a square piece of scrap wood and use that to lay a neat bead...but the CC idea sounds easier
i was going to suggest cutting a 45 degree angle off a square piece of scrap wood and use that to lay a neat bead...but the CC idea sounds easier
You know there is actually an old proverb that says when a man gets to the point where everything is going his way beware because big problems usually arise. And while I'm posting to report some good news with photo's, I have hit a very scary big wall.
But first the good news, in the photo's below you will notice the neat silicone removing tool that made short work of the inside bottom seals. You will also notice how clean the glass is compared to the bottom glass which I did not clean or polish obviously.
OK Now for the biggest problem so far and it's a duzy!
I started cutting out the seal around the bottom pane and realized that as the seal is dug out the expanding bottom glass is almost taking up the space in between becasue the few placed where the blade removed the silicon in the gap is now too tight for the blade to fit back in and you can actually hear the glass binding on the metal blade.
Here is my concern unlike most common bottom glass panels where it is glued to the vertical panels from the outside so as you cut the seal the glass panels moves away from one another. My bottom pane is inset surrounded by 4 walls of glass under very close tolerances with the silicone providing the only cushion and protection preventing the panes from rubbing and cracking one another.
So as I continue to remove the seal and the glass panes start to make full contact with one another under weight and heat expansion with no place to go, wont the panels start to crack and shard as they make unprotected contact possibly damaging the surface areas of the vertical panes for the new bottom?. I have only cut 15% in staggered sections but each place I remove silicone between the panes the gap gets smaller meaning they will make contact at some point and possibly damage one another, so I have halted my work to seek a solution.
I am even considering taping up the entire button glass and braking it up so the glass has some place to go or relive to and then cut the seal and remove each shard in segments rather then risk damaging my other vertical panels. But is braking the bottom glass more risky and how do I do it in a controlled safe manner? HELP!
But first the good news, in the photo's below you will notice the neat silicone removing tool that made short work of the inside bottom seals. You will also notice how clean the glass is compared to the bottom glass which I did not clean or polish obviously.
OK Now for the biggest problem so far and it's a duzy!
I started cutting out the seal around the bottom pane and realized that as the seal is dug out the expanding bottom glass is almost taking up the space in between becasue the few placed where the blade removed the silicon in the gap is now too tight for the blade to fit back in and you can actually hear the glass binding on the metal blade.
Here is my concern unlike most common bottom glass panels where it is glued to the vertical panels from the outside so as you cut the seal the glass panels moves away from one another. My bottom pane is inset surrounded by 4 walls of glass under very close tolerances with the silicone providing the only cushion and protection preventing the panes from rubbing and cracking one another.
So as I continue to remove the seal and the glass panes start to make full contact with one another under weight and heat expansion with no place to go, wont the panels start to crack and shard as they make unprotected contact possibly damaging the surface areas of the vertical panes for the new bottom?. I have only cut 15% in staggered sections but each place I remove silicone between the panes the gap gets smaller meaning they will make contact at some point and possibly damage one another, so I have halted my work to seek a solution.
I am even considering taping up the entire button glass and braking it up so the glass has some place to go or relive to and then cut the seal and remove each shard in segments rather then risk damaging my other vertical panels. But is braking the bottom glass more risky and how do I do it in a controlled safe manner? HELP!
I wouldn't risk breaking it as you could easily damage other parts of the tank, removing one of the end panels would releave stress and make it easier to remove the bottom.
I don't think that will be enough because their is still the top brace providing allot of midpoint support that the end panel might relief. Also the remember the bottom panel is so large and heavy its going to need more room then an end panel can provide and taking the whole tank apart is unacceptable as that is plainly more risky IMO.
There are two small bottom sections that are cracked all the way across and in the middle as well, one about 10x7" the other 15x10". If cut the silicone on only one side of that cracked portion, the glass portion should theoretically fall out clear of the aquarium to the truck bed. If I can get that piece out and then the other piece as well, I wonder if Id be able to fit a tool in there like ceramic tile breaker jaws and maybe remove the glass one controlled chunk at a time, each piece falling to the truck bed not the side panels especially if lined with carpet. If a tile breaker can brake 1/2" glass the same way it breaks tile that is?
Any other suggestions?
There are two small bottom sections that are cracked all the way across and in the middle as well, one about 10x7" the other 15x10". If cut the silicone on only one side of that cracked portion, the glass portion should theoretically fall out clear of the aquarium to the truck bed. If I can get that piece out and then the other piece as well, I wonder if Id be able to fit a tool in there like ceramic tile breaker jaws and maybe remove the glass one controlled chunk at a time, each piece falling to the truck bed not the side panels especially if lined with carpet. If a tile breaker can brake 1/2" glass the same way it breaks tile that is?
Any other suggestions?
