Some lessons learned worth mentioning IMHO:
(1) Most large aquariums break when moved manually by people. I recommend that when ever possible mechanical means (hand truck, furniture dolly) are used to move and transport large aquariums any farther then 1-3 feet.
(2) It is crucial to have a level (liquid level check) work platform that supports the entire bottom of the aquarium, using cheap wood shims where necessary to achieve this. having a work platform that is at hip level high take a huge strain off the back, in fact its almost necessary.
(3) Besides the work platform being level A large piece of glass ( the new or old bottom glass section) placed over the 4 or 2 vertical panel area receiving new glass will provide the true story on whether the involved panels height are level level to one another for replacement glass. This will be evident by the piece of glass ability to sit flash without rocking or it it rocks back and forth between panels indicating a high spot and possible need for adjustment.
(4) Don't be afraid to use cheap ($4 10oz) GE silicone I and waste it by over beading joints and don't clean off excess silicone until cured as a paper towel wipe will only create a large smear that will be even harder to blade off once cured as it will be difficult to see and 4x larger.
(5) Rehearse every major you are about to do including choreographing where everything should be and what is needed. Have at least 2 alternative plans and research their potential problems and minimize them, i.e placing pillows behind the glass encase it should fall inside, using lanyards on heavy metal tools like wood chisels so then don't fall in and crack the bottom.
(6) Don't give up on big obstacles but rather take a break and research the problem for as long as necessary to solve the problem.
(7)Clean glass sealing surfaces about to be glued again and again until every speck of silicone residue is removed. Food coloring can be used to ID old silicone residue so it can be targeted and removed. Final cleaning before sealing should be done with denatured alcohol becasue it cleans so well and evaporates quickly, the glass should squeak if its clean.
(8) Try and have help from a skilled craftsman or hobbiest who know how to use hand tools so that you can take advantage of combined steps like if sealing a bottom be prepared with an additional silicon gun to spoon the inside seams as well all in one steo rather then 2. Also the ability to use taped inside seams that can be removed in time before silicones skins saving the sep of clean up.
(9) Repairing a broken aquarium that is large 100+ gallons can save allot of money and provide an opportunity to gain new skills with an appreciation of your ability to take something considered trash and make it like new. This 244 tank with stand and canopy would have cost me $1800 OTD from GLass Cages or $2200 delivered, the most reasonable price manufacturer I could find. My cost in supplies were just over $550 for a total of around $600. I only wish I had a large enough home to build me a 500 tank if I could fine one that has a damaged panel LOL.
::clap::nilly::laugh:
:woot::lol
PTL) 
