That's a lot of activity!
Ok, one bit at a time:
First, I would set up the 75 gallon now and get it cycling without a substrate in there. Leave the fish in the smaller tank for now but they'll need a much bigger home shortly. Use the instructions for fishless cycling at http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?84598-Freshwater-cycling. Once the substrate comes in you can stop the fishless process, drain it down, get the substrate in, plant it, then fill it back up, and wait for it to settle. Then put your fish into the 75 to continue the cyling process. They'll be better off in a fish-in cycle in a larger tank than in the little one. The bacteria generally lives in the filter so you shouldn't have a problem that way and it will speed things up. You may want to keep the shrimp in the 12 gallon though since you'll never see him in the 75.
Next, find out more information about the cichlids. My cichlids are quite peaceful until they start breeding, or see something they can fit in their mouths. Also, remember that peaceful is a relative term based on the tankmates. Nearly all fish are aggressive towards someone (My diamond tetras are death to kribensis fry, but leave everything else alone).
You do not need the cichlid variety of ecocomplete, go ahead and get the regular one. As for Wendyl's mate, you'll want to be certain of Wendyl's sex and then find another moonlight gourami for him/her. I do recommend holding off on this for a while though. It's best to get the tank set up first. As a side note, gouramis can generally be sexed by the shape of the dorsal fin. Males tend to have larger, more pointed dorsals while females tend to have smaller more rounded ones. The older the gourami, the more clear this becomes. Females also tend to get more round in the belly once they start holding eggs.
Regarding Cream, his fate probably had more to do with the current tank being in the process of cycling along with the stress of relocation. It's not uncommon for fish to pick at disabled or dead tankmates, and I doubt an attack was the primary cause.
This brings me to my next question. What are you testing your water with? I do recommend the API master test kit for the best accuracy. Often strips can be innacurate. The reason I mention this is that if your tank is cycling, your ammonia levels will likely drop to 0 soon which is ideally where you want them. Usually a steady reading of 1 means that you're still in the beginning stages of a cycle, or that your test is inaccurate.
As for the food, you probably don't need to do the mixing. Most fish will adapt to a particular food if it's the only thing being offered, although some fish do have specific dietary requirements (like the Farowella). A high quality flake and then an algae tablet will be enough once everything gets going.
The cloudiness you experienced does seem like a bacterial bloom of some sort, just keep an eye on it and keep up the water changes.
Ok, one bit at a time:
First, I would set up the 75 gallon now and get it cycling without a substrate in there. Leave the fish in the smaller tank for now but they'll need a much bigger home shortly. Use the instructions for fishless cycling at http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?84598-Freshwater-cycling. Once the substrate comes in you can stop the fishless process, drain it down, get the substrate in, plant it, then fill it back up, and wait for it to settle. Then put your fish into the 75 to continue the cyling process. They'll be better off in a fish-in cycle in a larger tank than in the little one. The bacteria generally lives in the filter so you shouldn't have a problem that way and it will speed things up. You may want to keep the shrimp in the 12 gallon though since you'll never see him in the 75.
Next, find out more information about the cichlids. My cichlids are quite peaceful until they start breeding, or see something they can fit in their mouths. Also, remember that peaceful is a relative term based on the tankmates. Nearly all fish are aggressive towards someone (My diamond tetras are death to kribensis fry, but leave everything else alone).
You do not need the cichlid variety of ecocomplete, go ahead and get the regular one. As for Wendyl's mate, you'll want to be certain of Wendyl's sex and then find another moonlight gourami for him/her. I do recommend holding off on this for a while though. It's best to get the tank set up first. As a side note, gouramis can generally be sexed by the shape of the dorsal fin. Males tend to have larger, more pointed dorsals while females tend to have smaller more rounded ones. The older the gourami, the more clear this becomes. Females also tend to get more round in the belly once they start holding eggs.
Regarding Cream, his fate probably had more to do with the current tank being in the process of cycling along with the stress of relocation. It's not uncommon for fish to pick at disabled or dead tankmates, and I doubt an attack was the primary cause.
This brings me to my next question. What are you testing your water with? I do recommend the API master test kit for the best accuracy. Often strips can be innacurate. The reason I mention this is that if your tank is cycling, your ammonia levels will likely drop to 0 soon which is ideally where you want them. Usually a steady reading of 1 means that you're still in the beginning stages of a cycle, or that your test is inaccurate.
As for the food, you probably don't need to do the mixing. Most fish will adapt to a particular food if it's the only thing being offered, although some fish do have specific dietary requirements (like the Farowella). A high quality flake and then an algae tablet will be enough once everything gets going.
The cloudiness you experienced does seem like a bacterial bloom of some sort, just keep an eye on it and keep up the water changes.
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