90 Gal Lighting / flourite Question

Thanks, this all should get me started.

I'm used to the long names for things like Nitrate, etc - guess I'll have to bone up on the chemical designations. :)

I'm still in the process of cycling the new tank - but I'm using media from my old tank filter. A few more weeks of balancing and I should be set to go.
 
Mr. Barr, could you be a little more specific on the addition of peat to the substrate? I'm going to be changing mine over in my 90g tank and would like to know how much to add, along with the mulm syphoned from the old gravel. I've read cautions about adding organic matter to the substrate but I've also read the boards enough to know that djlen is correct..."Tom knows his stuff."

I apologize for "piggy-backing" on your thread mbeck, but this might benefit you too!
 
Peat is added the very bottom layer, roughly 1 handful per sq ft, more if you are a non CO2 person etc, then perhaps 1" dry. Then add the mulm, lots of it. 1/2" or so of fairly rich soupyness.

Adding organic matter can be bad if it has NH4/Urea. These cause algae. NO3 is fine.

But mulm is very safe since it's already well broken down and is loaded with bacteria, the right kind of bacteria, that are present in established tanks. The organic matter feeds them till things stabilize after a few months and then you do not have any new tank start up issues, it runs like an established tank.

We all enrich the substrate some and also take nutrients from the water column, some m,ethods rely more on the water column, some more on the substrate. There is on;t a finite amount that can be supplied to the substrate, adding ferty sticks can extend this or frozen soil/mud cubes/clay balls etc, but the water column is easy to dose over the years, but folks will forget to do it etc also, so a combo of both methods is good idea.

Gives you more leeway.

Regards,
Tom Barr
 
Thank you.
 
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