A few co2 injection questions.....

TrashmanTodd

TrashmanTodd

AC Members
Jan 27, 2002
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Reno, NV
I have injected C02 on my tank. I have read that some people set it up so the co2 turns off with the lights, while others like me just keep the CO2 going. I do it because i'm affraid if I let the CO2 turn off when the lights go out will have to much of a shift in my PH. Right now the way have it set up it will go from around 6.7-6.8 when the lights ore off to 7.0 when the lights are on. Will I be safe to do it the other way and if so what kind of PH shifts are safe.

The second question, is that I'm about to set up a smaller tank and instead of setting up another CO2 system I would like to split the line right after the cylinoid(sp). Will that work? I'm assuming I would have to have a valve and bubble counter on each line, right?

Thanks for all the great help gang! :cool:

Trashman
 
i used to have it going on and off. now i switched to on all the time because i was to lazy to set the timer back up. i never saw any effects with the fish i have.

i have seen multiple output needle valves. that way you can adjust the amount in each tank.

miniman.JPG

http://rexgrigg.com/sale
 
TrashmanTodd said:
I have injected C02 on my tank. I have read that some people set it up so the co2 turns off with the lights, while others like me just keep the CO2 going. I do it because i'm affraid if I let the CO2 turn off when the lights go out will have to much of a shift in my PH. Right now the way have it set up it will go from around 6.7-6.8 when the lights ore off to 7.0 when the lights are on. Will I be safe to do it the other way and if so what kind of PH shifts are safe.

The second question, is that I'm about to set up a smaller tank and instead of setting up another CO2 system I would like to split the line right after the cylinoid(sp). Will that work? I'm assuming I would have to have a valve and bubble counter on each line, right?

Thanks for all the great help gang! :cool:

Trashman
Click to expand...
Yo trashman...that pH shift is negligible. The fish will be fine. I have mine go off at night, if not for anything else, there is no need to waste the gas when the lights are off. No lights...no carbon utilization...the pH shift is not an issue.

As for your second question, ou just need a splitter...check this out

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-way-Brass-Co2...hZ015QQcategoryZ66794QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem
 
Only if you have the regulator cranked way high (i.e., showing a lot of psi on the low-side gauge) along with the needle valve cranked down tight to control the bubble count...IIRC, the solenoid will work too hard to unseat its internal sealing surface and will burn out in short order.

If you're using the minimum pressure necessary to get the proper flow of bubbles, w/ little or no needle valve adjustment to maintain it, you're solenoid will last a long time.

BTW, some natural waters undergo a pretty hefty pH change whenever it rains...this is a spawning trigger for many species of fish.

v/r, N-A
 
A good solenoid will have a working pressure around 100 psi. Since we normally only run our aquarium systems in the range of 20 psi you can't damage the solenoid.

Also a good solenoid is rated to millions of cycles. This doesn't mean that any one particular solenoid will not fail quickly. It means that if you take a group of them, say 10, and start testing them that you will obtain an average life span in the millions of cycles.
 
Rex Grigg said:
A good solenoid will have a working pressure around 100 psi. Since we normally only run our aquarium systems in the range of 20 psi you can't damage the solenoid.
Click to expand...
That's the key..."good" is associated with "purpose". I'd swear that the solenoids I got w/ my Milwaukee setup are just like the low-pressure--higher-flow types (usually run at 20cfh) used for shielding gas on small welding setups. Off the tank, they sound like them too (loud w/ a very evident "kick"). These have a relatively large sealing surface and cannot handle high pressures.

Rex, you discount the people who crank on the regulator then wind down the needle valve. They get the right bubble count, but if they have this type of solenoid, it cannot last.

Mine did not have labelling on it (just a generic Milwaukee regulator w/ bubble counter and solenoid for $68 new-in-box). I keep mine at the lowest pressure possible, so I expect that million-cycle service life. The Milwaukee is a decent dynamic regulator, but under static conditions (solenoid closed, zero gas flow), the pressure rises a bit. It's all easy to control if one follows the directions in the box, but if one does it the other way (regulator cranked in, needle valve tightened up a bit), you get that larger pressure rise w/ the solenoid closed.

My next CO2 setups will be better units w/ better parts that I assemble myself, w/ a finer-thread needle valve, and a different solenoid (higher pressure-low-flow construction, like a Clippard). Still, properly adjusted, my Milwaukee MA957's are just fine.

v/r, N-A
 
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Native American said:
It's all easy to control if one follows the directions in the box, but if one does it the other way (regulator cranked in, needle valve tightened up a bit), you get that larger pressure rise w/ the solenoid closed.
v/r, N-A
Click to expand...

What is the appropriate way to do this? I got mine used, with no box. I want to do it right!

Also, what is the approximate psi my system should run at? I've been reading that it should be 1 to 20 psi.
 
Depends on the regulator. I have built systems that work fine at 7 psi and others that have to be at 20 to work. There are a lot of variables.

And the correct way with a decent regulator is to open the cylinder valve all the way, set the working pressure at 10-15 psi and then adjust the needle valve.

Be warned there is one brand of regulator that can be damaged or destroyed if you don't follow their exact detailed instructions on opening everything up. That to me indicates a poorly designed product.
 
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