acclimation drip method table?
- Thread starter CWO4GUNNER
- Start date
Most new fish are too stressed to be in the breeding mood. Besides, the rains that can trigger breeding are nature's drip acclimation
Well in the interim of my next expensive fish (anything over $5), I have been experimenting with comet feeders and think I found a method that works very well. Perhaps this is something you are already doing but no one mentioned the details when I asked and it was what I was looking for, a specific measured rule that can be followed.
It does seem that PH is the predominant factor here and affects the new fish proportional to the degree of difference between the bag PH and new tank PH. Also another factor was the difference in temperature after being drip acclimated which need to be equalized since a bucket can drop in temp even with a drip from the new tank. OK here it is in a simple rule.
Drip Bucket acclimation.
(1) Ask your LFS to place your new 1 inch fish in at least a quart size bag 75% full. Obviously the bigger the fish the bigger the bag.
(2) At home immediately get a 2.5 gallon bucket ready with an air stone/pump and air line with valve for adjustable drip. Again obviously the bigger the bag the bigger the bucket or container.
(3) Take a liquid PH test of both the bag water and new tank water and make a note of the difference. The greater the difference the longer it will take to equalize the bag water to tank PH.
(4) Empty the quart of bag water with fish gently into the 2.5 gallon bucket or larger container and start the siphon of water from the new tank to the bucket adjusting the rate of flow using the airline valve at the bucket end to a rate of no more than 4 drips per second.
(5) Take a PH test reading of the bucket every doubling of volume of water. When the PH in the bucket matches the first reading taken of the new tank water, stop the drip and immediately re-bag the fish. I started with a quart and it took 5 hours to reach 2.5 gallons becasue of the PH difference 7.4 (bag) and 8.2 (tank) PH .
(6) Float the re-bagged fish so that the temperature difference can equalize, about 15 minutes, then release or net the new fish into the new tank.
That's it, the key for me was actually knowing the difference in PH and dripping at a rate no greater then 4 drips per second until the PH equalized. The time it takes will depend on the difference in PH. The greater the difference the longer it will take. I highly recommend liquid PH testing for this.
Anyway after trying different formulas, this one worked for me and is a measured method I can remember for the future.
It does seem that PH is the predominant factor here and affects the new fish proportional to the degree of difference between the bag PH and new tank PH. Also another factor was the difference in temperature after being drip acclimated which need to be equalized since a bucket can drop in temp even with a drip from the new tank. OK here it is in a simple rule.
Drip Bucket acclimation.
(1) Ask your LFS to place your new 1 inch fish in at least a quart size bag 75% full. Obviously the bigger the fish the bigger the bag.
(2) At home immediately get a 2.5 gallon bucket ready with an air stone/pump and air line with valve for adjustable drip. Again obviously the bigger the bag the bigger the bucket or container.
(3) Take a liquid PH test of both the bag water and new tank water and make a note of the difference. The greater the difference the longer it will take to equalize the bag water to tank PH.
(4) Empty the quart of bag water with fish gently into the 2.5 gallon bucket or larger container and start the siphon of water from the new tank to the bucket adjusting the rate of flow using the airline valve at the bucket end to a rate of no more than 4 drips per second.
(5) Take a PH test reading of the bucket every doubling of volume of water. When the PH in the bucket matches the first reading taken of the new tank water, stop the drip and immediately re-bag the fish. I started with a quart and it took 5 hours to reach 2.5 gallons becasue of the PH difference 7.4 (bag) and 8.2 (tank) PH .
(6) Float the re-bagged fish so that the temperature difference can equalize, about 15 minutes, then release or net the new fish into the new tank.
That's it, the key for me was actually knowing the difference in PH and dripping at a rate no greater then 4 drips per second until the PH equalized. The time it takes will depend on the difference in PH. The greater the difference the longer it will take. I highly recommend liquid PH testing for this.
Anyway after trying different formulas, this one worked for me and is a measured method I can remember for the future.
Gunner,
I am glad that you pointed out the importance of accilmating in ref to pH.
Yes , fish can adapt to wider range of pH but it may be true when such takes place over long period of time (slow changes, evolution). Personally, I would stick to so called "Ideal COndition" for specific fish.
I am also glad to see someone who is trying various methods in order to improve survival rate of newly arrived fish.
What I used to do was that I made Acclimating Table(AT) higher than what most would use. 12" or higher but I devised drainage using PVC so I can control the dept of the water. Maybe you dont have to do this since most of fish are obtained locally, but when receiving and acclimating fish which may have been in the box for days, dept of acclimating table is one of critical factors.
I would always have water from bag tested and prepared table water (1") or so duplicating pH of bag water. Also make sure no Ammonia present (very important issue for transhipped fish) in the bag.
I would drip water from one end and would have drain on the opposite end so most of bag water will be washed away during accliamtion.
As far as volume of water being added to AT, I even used peristaltic pump so dosing can be automated but could achieve same using IV line (medical supply) with control valve.
Only thing I did different was I would have prepared the Reserve which would match pH of bag water. Once all the toxic waste have been washed away, would alter the water condition in reserve (very gradually) until matched the condition of that of main display tank. During these acclimation process, i would raise water dept by raising heigh of pvc drain pipe/strainer to desired level..
You method seems fine for most fish obtained locally. Only thing I would be concerend is when and if ammonia is present in lower ph of the bag water than tank's pH.
In such case, you should not use you tank water if pH is above 7.6. you should dilute/eradicate any toxic waste in the bag water using same pH water as bag water until waste is no longer registering (sometimes I even lower the pH of new water to detox some ammonia) . Then you can begin acclimating to main display. In any method, ability to drain during acclimation process is one of important factor.
For example, let's assume bag water pH is 7 and shown 1PPM Ammonia, and your tank pH is 7.6 or higher, I would not add tank water to the bag water with fish where as pH rises in the bag, ammonia becomes more toxic. Such process is exposing fish to toxic environment during acclimation process. A REASON why so many have problems with newly arrived fish. Well! one of the reasons.
One need to remove/dilute toxin in the bag during acclimationI hear lately that GBR is very hard fish to keep. RUBBISH! I would received 200 or more fish indivisually packed in nickel and dime bag with drops of water just enough to keep them moist, and kept in that conditions for days. No problem keeping them alive when properly acclimated.
GBR was easier and sturdier than other common rams. No problem breeding locally either. Had so many hobbyists breeding and raising their offsprings. I believe in proper acclimations and Ideal Conditions. This is the KEY!, IMO.
I could walk over to my lfs today where they receive 100 or more GBR at a time. I sometimes will stand there and pick out many mated pairs for someone who just walked in. Sometimes I would strike up a conversation in front of GBR tank and assist in picking out mated pairs.
I wish more hobbyists understands the imporance of proper acclimation and ideal condiions.
Just a thought to share!
I am glad that you pointed out the importance of accilmating in ref to pH.
Yes , fish can adapt to wider range of pH but it may be true when such takes place over long period of time (slow changes, evolution). Personally, I would stick to so called "Ideal COndition" for specific fish.
I am also glad to see someone who is trying various methods in order to improve survival rate of newly arrived fish.
What I used to do was that I made Acclimating Table(AT) higher than what most would use. 12" or higher but I devised drainage using PVC so I can control the dept of the water. Maybe you dont have to do this since most of fish are obtained locally, but when receiving and acclimating fish which may have been in the box for days, dept of acclimating table is one of critical factors.
I would always have water from bag tested and prepared table water (1") or so duplicating pH of bag water. Also make sure no Ammonia present (very important issue for transhipped fish) in the bag.
I would drip water from one end and would have drain on the opposite end so most of bag water will be washed away during accliamtion.
As far as volume of water being added to AT, I even used peristaltic pump so dosing can be automated but could achieve same using IV line (medical supply) with control valve.
Only thing I did different was I would have prepared the Reserve which would match pH of bag water. Once all the toxic waste have been washed away, would alter the water condition in reserve (very gradually) until matched the condition of that of main display tank. During these acclimation process, i would raise water dept by raising heigh of pvc drain pipe/strainer to desired level..
You method seems fine for most fish obtained locally. Only thing I would be concerend is when and if ammonia is present in lower ph of the bag water than tank's pH.
In such case, you should not use you tank water if pH is above 7.6. you should dilute/eradicate any toxic waste in the bag water using same pH water as bag water until waste is no longer registering (sometimes I even lower the pH of new water to detox some ammonia) . Then you can begin acclimating to main display. In any method, ability to drain during acclimation process is one of important factor.
For example, let's assume bag water pH is 7 and shown 1PPM Ammonia, and your tank pH is 7.6 or higher, I would not add tank water to the bag water with fish where as pH rises in the bag, ammonia becomes more toxic. Such process is exposing fish to toxic environment during acclimation process. A REASON why so many have problems with newly arrived fish. Well! one of the reasons.
One need to remove/dilute toxin in the bag during acclimationI hear lately that GBR is very hard fish to keep. RUBBISH! I would received 200 or more fish indivisually packed in nickel and dime bag with drops of water just enough to keep them moist, and kept in that conditions for days. No problem keeping them alive when properly acclimated.
GBR was easier and sturdier than other common rams. No problem breeding locally either. Had so many hobbyists breeding and raising their offsprings. I believe in proper acclimations and Ideal Conditions. This is the KEY!, IMO.
I could walk over to my lfs today where they receive 100 or more GBR at a time. I sometimes will stand there and pick out many mated pairs for someone who just walked in. Sometimes I would strike up a conversation in front of GBR tank and assist in picking out mated pairs.
I wish more hobbyists understands the imporance of proper acclimation and ideal condiions.
Just a thought to share!
Wow that's great info, its good to have a stepped method that one can build on and improve. before I was just guessing and never seemed to get the results I wanted and now I know why. I did test the bag water for toxins which only had 10 PPM Nitrate.
Ill take what you said into consideration but most importantly will take additional precautions with my new Blood Parrots using a QT tank, heater and even pre-matching the QT tank water to the bag water in both PH, GH, and TDS using this water to drip acclimate for a few hours before adding them to the QT and then to the tank after an additional 24 hours PH acclimation to my standard 8.2 PH water.
I don't know what these local LFS are doing to maintain 6.5 to 7.2 PH as they say they only use tap, but it is well known that the entire town is a water softener town due to the high PH and 600 PPM GH well water off these mountains.
Ill take what you said into consideration but most importantly will take additional precautions with my new Blood Parrots using a QT tank, heater and even pre-matching the QT tank water to the bag water in both PH, GH, and TDS using this water to drip acclimate for a few hours before adding them to the QT and then to the tank after an additional 24 hours PH acclimation to my standard 8.2 PH water.
I don't know what these local LFS are doing to maintain 6.5 to 7.2 PH as they say they only use tap, but it is well known that the entire town is a water softener town due to the high PH and 600 PPM GH well water off these mountains.
As far as lfs water is concerned, I am sure they are on central system.
I dont think they are hiding any water treatment equipments since such can bring in more sales.
Only thing I can see is that their system(s) have been running for long time. As you probably know, their system hold lot more fish than most hobbyist tank thus by having more fish, pH are bound to drop with time. They may had waited until ph dopped to low and Perhaps they have figured out the amt and frequency of water changes to maintain stable pH of system within range you mentioned, provided that they are using same water from same resource.
I dont know if this method is possible but have yu ever considered Rain Water.
why dont you collect some in inert container and run some test. If rain water is close to or even acid water, perferct water to be used during pwc.
What I've done with rain water was to run filter with high quality carbon and heater before using. Even ran UV sterilzer, Ozonizer to see if I can improve water condition. But found not necessary to use high-tech Eq.
I even baked those used carbon in broiler chamber when Mom was using oven. No need to waste energy when I dont have to. lol!.
Trying various alternatives to save or should I say not to waste any! Even to a point recirculating dirty water from tank via diy water treament contraptions. Hey it worked and will work when properly maintain as long as one build good ventilation within such system room (I calle it Mech Room)
Ive been following your original posting on other forum (I am barred from that forum, lol) and I was intrigued by all the attempts and trial/errors performed by you since it reminded me of me some 40 yrs ago and still continuing. LOL
Good Luck with all the experiments and lmk if you opt for alternatives plus your results so other can utilized such info provided they keep their mind open.
