Ace25's 75G Build Thread

Ace25 said:
Yes, that would probably be just wasting $100 on the 20. The MP10 will be perfect on a 24G and is slimmer/smaller than the 20 so that is also a + for them in a Nano. With the MP10 on a 24G tank that comes out to around 72x turnover!
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alight i will just wait i have two korilia nano's for it now.
 
Nope, I think you would need an MP40 on each end of a 125G and put them in sync wirelessly so they work together. Afraid that will run you $800 or so to do that though... very expensive I know.

It is only another week or two until the MP10s start to ship hopefully.. K-Nanos will be fine for now.. you still gotta cycle the tank right?
 
Ace25 said:
Nope, I think you would need an MP40 on each end of a 125G and put them in sync wirelessly so they work together. Afraid that will run you $800 or so to do that though... very expensive I know.

It is only another week or two until the MP10s start to ship hopefully.. K-Nanos will be fine for now.. you still gotta cycle the tank right?
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i still have to build the sump and frag tank!:confused: and i wont have to cycle
i am moving stuff from my 40 cube into the aquapod
 
boo! that's what I figured...yep $800 is a bit much, I will have to go Tunze 6055's...I hear great things about their pumps too with the 7095 controller
I will just have to drool watching yours haha I am on BOLO (be on the look out) for a used set on RC

Maria
 
Ya, I think Tunze had a real rough spot early last year with quality control. Their pumps and controllers were breaking constantly, but they have since fixed thier problems and they are quality again from everyone I have heard from.

Here is what happens when you run an Actinic T5HO bulb on an Icecap660 ballast for 3 months and 1 week. I knew my bulbs were "done" and needed replacement, and got new ones (with new "normal" ballast to run the ATI Blue + bulbs I just got) today. This one blew up yesterday.. loud pop/crack. So I took one out of my 29G setup to get my actinics going again (Icecap660 requires 4 good bulbs just to fire, it is all or nothing with that ballast) and today I came home to finding a second bulb had blown.. 2 in 2 days.. yup.. they were done at exactly 3 months which is what I have always suspected when you overdrive them... so no more doing that. These were Giesemann bulbs.. but I had no better luck with UV bulbs.

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And here is an Acan from Guillo1 that I am "coral sitting" for him to bring it back to health. He has solar tubes.. and so much PAR that even in a cave on the bottom of his barebottom 300G tank, it was still to much light I think. Just 20 minutes after putting it into my tank it is already "puffing up" which it wouldn't do for him.
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So, here is an odd question for anyone.. does anyone know of a place that sells thin plastic sheets that has actual spectral output readings for the plastic? I highly doubt it, but maybe some type of Greenhouse material exists for the same type of thinking. The idea here is to cover the Solar Tubes with a blue film to reduce the PAR of them, and hopefully try and filter out some of the bad lighting while letting the good lighting through still. I know it is a long shot finding something like that... but maybe someone knows. If not, after some LED experimenting of my own, I am going to start experimenting with different plastic films I can find locally and use my par meter and spectrometer to see how each one works. Guillo and I never imagined Solar tubes would work so well.. so now we are looking for ways to actually "refine" them since we know they are far exceeding natural sunlight output. If we could cut the PAR in 1/2 on each of them, but still allow the blue light through, that would be ideal.
 
Ace25 said:
So, here is an odd question for anyone.. does anyone know of a place that sells thin plastic sheets that has actual spectral output readings for the plastic? I highly doubt it, but maybe some type of Greenhouse material exists for the same type of thinking. The idea here is to cover the Solar Tubes with a blue film to reduce the PAR of them, and hopefully try and filter out some of the bad lighting while letting the good lighting through still. I know it is a long shot finding something like that... but maybe someone knows. If not, after some LED experimenting of my own, I am going to start experimenting with different plastic films I can find locally and use my par meter and spectrometer to see how each one works. Guillo and I never imagined Solar tubes would work so well.. so now we are looking for ways to actually "refine" them since we know they are far exceeding natural sunlight output. If we could cut the PAR in 1/2 on each of them, but still allow the blue light through, that would be ideal.
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why not just put uv glass under them?
 
Will UV glass do anything for the high PAR problem? PAR readings don't read UV as far as I know. But good suggestion just for the point that your right, there should be a UV shield on there of some sort to protect the corals. The biggest problem with solar tubes is how yellow the lighting is in the tank. He is running 8 5' actinic T5HO bulbs just to try and balance out the sunlight. Since he added new actinics his corals have really started to color up in the last week. He has a normal toadstool that was bleach white from the sunlight.. since adding actinics the zooxanthellae have started to return and multiply and you can see some coloring coming back in the toadstool and his other softies.
 
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