Activated Carbon VS. No Carbon?

I can get bags and bags upon bags of vermiculite, fertilizer free. Most of it however is suspect for asbestos content..............We take it out of attics all the time.........
 
I can get bags and bags upon bags of vermiculite, fertilizer free. Most of it however is suspect for asbestos content..............We take it out of attics all the time.........
Yikes! Man take care of yourself even small amount (speck) in the lungs can mutate cells, asbestos that is.
 
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LOL, It's what our company does, haz waste, asbestos, mold, etc........
As long as you use the right level of protection. I never dealt much with particle exposure, I responded to mostly air and water chemical releases with proper exposure zones, decon and levels of protraction based on MSDS and CFR's. I was never involved in a rip out but I new guys that did before respirator protection was used 1n the 70's.
 
So there've been no studies which would stand scientific scrutiny to say one way or another, but there is a mountain of anecdotal evidence that it helps. Looking at it that way...... although I agree that dietary iodine could likely suffice in many cases.

Actually, in light of everything, there is very little anecdotal evidence, either. The only thing you, me, or anyone can positively say about iodine, even anecdotally, is that it makes shrimp molt more. That's it. Not necessarily a good thing, either.
 
Read mention of the use of carbon in waste water treatment plants. While that may be true in some facilities I did a lot of work at one of B'more's biggest plants a few years ago and their systems use mechanical filters, gravity, bacteria, oxidizers and polymers. Never encountered any carbon.

Regarding carbon's uptake of ferts used in planted tanks, the iron uptake in particular occurs almost instantaneously when it comes in contact with the plant tissue. Didn't do well in Biology or Chemistry but I believe the term is ionic exchange. I'm not certain but it seems that the absorption of other components of the fertilizer would be similar. It's sort of like the difference between organic gardening and modern chemical based agriculture. The organic approach would be to introduce phosphate in rock form and allow it to break down and be absorbed slowly whereas the Monsanto/Dow approach would be to spray a water borne substance that is absorbed immediately or washed away into the watershed. When we dose our planted tanks with liquid ferts we're probably somewhere in between. The plant probably takes what it needs fairly quickly and the extra ends up being absorbed by the carbon.

Not shilling for Seachem but their website has some very good info on some of the differences in carbon types. Not surprisingly they tout their own variety as being the best.

http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/MatrixCarbon.html

As my fish habit has grown to invade more and more of my domicile I have gone to economy where ever possible as long as it doesn't compromise functionality. I use sponges and biowheels in abundance but have replaced almost all of my filter carbon with bags of Seachem's Purigen.

This product does absorb chemical contaminants and helps to clarify the water while being easy to identify as to its state of usefulness due to the color change that it undergoes. The same can not be said for carbon. I have quite a few tanks and quite a limited memory so trying to keep track of which tank has old carbon is beyond my aged brain. The fact that Purigen can be regenerated repeatedly makes it very cost effective and the only real concern I have to address when using it is to avoid certain slime coat stimulants that can permanently foul it.

I do however continue to use carbon as a disposable chemical filter to clear meds and such, although I more typically tear down a treatment tank and sanitize the entire set up.

Seachem claims that their liquid plant ferts are completely compatible and as far as I have experienced the results are generally quite good.

I too have used carbon based organic vapor cartridges when dealing with gaseous hazards and very quickly came to realize that when the carbon has reached its full capacity it ceases to be even a little bit effective very abruptly.

Ultimately, as with all things aquaria, it comes down to what's available to you, the cost and personal preference. You say tomate, I say tomot
 
Good observation. Ionic exchange doesn't occur at an appreciable rate on fresh activated carbon (there is some, but it isn't nearly as high as others) and no reactions, in general occur, either. Some sites being exposed, etc. may cause secondary reactions, though. Both physical trapping of particles and molecular forces are at work with activated carbon in the multitudes of "bond" sites (not really bond) and crevices. Carbon tends to attract molecules with similar makeup, which makes it so effective at removing other organic-based molecules.
 
If there is any media that rivals bacteria colonization compared to your aquarium itself, carbon is it and all the other rings and bio-balls and sponges don't even remotely come close, not by the longest of shots blind folded on the back of a mechanical bull./QUOTE]
But when you change the carbon the bacteria goes too. I would like to buy loose carbon for my filters but I am not sure which one is good and how much do I need for a 55g and a 30g respectively. Can you recommend and advice how to do this? Thank you.
 
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