Adding more light

OK, this is getting a bit skewed with topics. My mind has a difficult time keeping everything straight. I'm not a moderator, but a suggestion... in the future if you have a question that is off topic it would be a lot easier for everyone if you started a new thread.
Blinky, I recently doubled the wattage in one of my tanks with no ill affects to the plants, many of which are Crypts. I have not experienced negative affects to plants from increasing wattage. Having said that, I would suggest that you load up on some cheapie floaters (pennywort, water sprite and salvinia are great for this) to help shade the existing plants a bit. This will also help the fish adjust to their new environment.
My tanks hold probably double the plant mass that most would call 'normal' and this has made the job of re-balancing easier after increasing wattage. You will probably have to increase nutrient levels to accommodate faster growth, but I would do that slowly and as needed from observing the plants. Your CO2 level is fine. Are you using KNO3 in your PMDDs? I ask because you mention NO3 and K is needed as well.
You may find that more frequent dosing to maintain your levels will be necessary. That's a lot of wattage. Is an all purpose trace mix included in your regimen?

Greg- I agree completely with Blinky on Halogens. They must be elevated in order to compensate for the heat factor which negates many of the pluses from a penetration standpoint. I personally find them unattractive to look at as well......so much glare and wasted/lost light. There are ways to work a CF fixture onto your tank which will penetrate much better than NO lighting and, IMO more attractively than Halogen.

jeanp - It looks to me like the 30" set is a 1X65, or am I missing something?
You want to make sure the tubes you get are in the 6700K range.
If you have experience with a planted tank, you know what's involved and should go for it in my opinion. You will get good growth with 2X65 and will definitely find the need for CO2 injection as well at that wattage. If you are unfamiliar with nutrient dosing, read up because you'll need to know what your doing with that as well. At 3+ watts/gal., finding balance is important.

Len
 
I'm using KNO3 (took me ages to find it, but I've got a good supply now) and a good trace mix - the current mix is on my specs page. Next time I mix up a batch there will be more KNO3 and less MgNO3, I used more MgNO3 because it's what I had at the time. I'm dosing 1ml per 10g daily, along with Fleet for PO4.
I have some water sprite that broke off from the parent plant and is growing as a floating plant now. I'll leave that (it's spreading rapidly) and maybe add something else to shade the tank in parts.
Thanks for the advice, much appreciated. Now I just need some pointers on how to wait patiently for the light to arrive! ;)
 
Thanks for your reply djlen.

djlen said:
It looks to me like the 30" set is a 1X65, or am I missing something?
djlen

30"Freshwater Aqualight comes in two version: Single (1X65) and dual (2X65). Both models have 6700K bulbs.
I like the Dual version better, because it has two separate power cords for each lamp, so I can choose how much light there will be in my tank. I think I will use only one bulb at the beginning, and later switch to two.

I still have question about lunar lights. Are they used for decoration only, or there is some function they perform in the tank?
 
They serve mainly as ambiance lighting at night with, IMO no real benefit to plants.
They do make the transition from total darkness to light a bit easier for the fish.
IMO, they are not really worth the extra cost, but others may differ on this question.
Yes, I saw the other option further down the page after I'd written my last response.
I think you are on track with the dual control. Once the plants develop you can always set them to come on simultaneously if you want to.

Len
 
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