Algae bloom

[fishieperson321]

No offense, but please stop pushing filters at this guy. His filter is fine. He only has a couple of corycats in there and does not need 10x turnaround with them. The filter has nothing to do with the algae bloom.

FWIW please go to the plants forum and do some reading on aglae. Search on "algae" and "nutrient imbalance".

Thanks

Roan

I used to clean aquariums for a living, then I went to work at a fish store. I jnow what I am talking about and most of the time, when the filters aren't filtering 10x an hour, the tanks would get an algae bloom. This is because the filter isn't strong enough to pull in an effecient amount of water to go through the media. I have 105 gallonsperhour on my 10 gallon tank. Trust me, if all else fails, try this.

 

[Roan Art]

I used to clean aquariums for a living, then I went to work at a fish store. I jnow what I am talking about and most of the time,

I've read some of your other posts and I don't mean to be rude, but I beg to differ.

when the filters aren't filtering 10x an hour, the tanks would get an algae bloom. This is because the filter isn't strong enough to pull in an effecient amount of water to go through the media. I have 105 gallonsperhour on my 10 gallon tank.

O. M. G. If it were THAT simple then I wouldn't have any aglae at all and I can assure you, I DO.

Upping the filterage is NOT going to get rid of aglae.

Again, PLEASE go do some reading on algae and its cause. There are tons of posts in the plants forum on it. Better yet, go ask the guys in there. It would make for some interesting reading.

Trust me, if all else fails, try this.

"if all else fails"? He hasn't TRIED anything else! Are you a Tetra salesperson or something?

Roan

 

[reiverix]

Ok let's try and resolve this with a bit more info before rushing out and buying new equipment that's not needed.

Can you describe the algae? It's green, but what does it look like? Is it slimy and smelly, fuzzy, long and threadlike, branching like deer antlers, etc.

How long are the light on for? Did you add ferts for the new plants? Do you know what your NO3 and PO4 levels are?

A lot of questions, I know, but the more info the better.

 

[carpguy]

Here's a good article that'll help you sort out which type of algae you're dealing with. Once you've got a candidate or two we can get to work.

Water changes are always a good thing but aren't going to solve your algae issues; likewise, don't worry about the filter. Its not the filter.

Do you know what the two plants are? Heavily planting up front is generally a better strategy. You want enough plants to use up the nutrients in the water.

reiverix is looking for your Nitrate and Phosphate levels to try and get a bead on your nutrient levels. Take a look at this handy fertilizer sticky from over in the plants forum (don't panic… we'll walk you through it). Yes, there is a bit of a learning curve; yes, its worth the trouble.

If you want to temporarily drop your light level I'd turn one bulb off or shorten up the photoperiod rather than going back to the actinics.

 

[ggrowney]

Algae

Ok let's try and resolve this with a bit more info before rushing out and buying new equipment that's not needed.

Can you describe the algae? It's green, but what does it look like? Is it slimy and smelly, fuzzy, long and threadlike, branching like deer antlers, etc.

How long are the light on for? Did you add ferts for the new plants? Do you know what your NO3 and PO4 levels are?

A lot of questions, I know, but the more info the better.

I referred to article below. Looks like a combo of spot and fuzz algae from that article.

I have low nitrites, nitrate of slightly less than 20 ppm and ph of about 6.5, very soft water. Can't test for much else. Is PO4 phospate??

 

[cherrypie]

Yes PO4 is Phosphate would be worth checking for, I'd be inclined to go down to the LFS sometime and let them do a phosphate test rather than buying a kit quite yet. A high level is usually indicative of overfeeding, except where phosphate containing pH buffers have been used.

Nitrates are quite high, most fish will tolerate 20ppm but under 10ppm is generally what most would consider ideal in an Aquarium. Keep the water changes up and be very careful about how much you're feeding your fish.

As was said by the wise people preceeding me, you don't need new equipment and adding plants will be a huge help as they're more efficient nutrient scavengers than algae. Keeping your lighting on a timer is also a good idea so it's limited to a normal day cycle (10 hours).

I have a few more ideas, but I have to run out, will post some other thoughts when I'm back.

 

[ggrowney]

Tests

I should probably note I really don't have a LFS (I live in Cody WY). I do have a agricultural feed store where I can buy some stuff and Wal Mart. I got a PH, KH, Nitrate/Nitrite test for mucho $$ total. I will look on-line for phosphate test. Algae appears to be growing perhaps less rapidly. I will be buying more plants on-line. The other weird thing is that my cory's had babies the first 10 days I owned them and there are fry swimming around in my gravel. Was hoping to foster their growth, but not sure what will happen with many H20 changes.

I appreciate all advice and have been reading. On the Nitrates, I have a strip that goes from 0-20 and the color is somewhere in between. I said <20 to generalize. Any advice on a test kit that you like is appreciated.

 

[cherrypie]

Ahh, the good old strip tests, lol those things are horrible and can't be relied on.

Anyhow, I think most of the people here would agree that Aquarium Pharmaceuticals gives you the best value kits for your money and they're very common, should be no problem to find. Alternatively Hagen kits are decent value and common, they just tend not to give as many tests as the AP ones.

Make sure you have your pH/Ammonia/Nitrite/Nitrate all as liquid kits first before worrying about a phosphate kit as they're the essentials. If your tests are all on strips and you need to replace multiple kits and aren't on a tight budget, you may wish to look at Hagen's "Master Test Kit", very good value and almost every test you could ever want in it.
http://www.hagen.com/usa/aquatic/product.cfm?CAT=1&SUBCAT=124&PROD_ID=01078600020101

Good to hear about the baby cories, guess you'll need to find a way to filter the intake of your siphon hose, keep up the water changes for now as long as the replacement water is well dechlorinated and close to the temperature of your aquarium water there shouldn't be any problems. The combination of water changes and the plants will eventually starve the algae.

The other thing I was thinking of was supplementing the potassium levels to encourage your plants to scavenge more phosphate, but it's probably best to just add more plants, be carefull with feeding and keep up the water changes for now, it should stabilize.

For plants I think java moss would be worth a shot, it'll generally grow like crazy when nitrates are plentiful and wont be too bothered if the spectrum of your lighting is a little off, plus it's excellent shelter for fry.

 

[Roan Art]

Yes PO4 is Phosphate would be worth checking for, I'd be inclined to go down to the LFS sometime and let them do a phosphate test rather than buying a kit quite yet. A high level is usually indicative of overfeeding, except where phosphate containing pH buffers have been used.

Cherrypie:

FWIW city municipalities in the States often use phosphates in tap water, especially during the fall and spring. It's not unusual for P04 out of the tap to run up to 5.0.

Mine is 2-3ppm on average.

Roan

 

[cherrypie]

Cherrypie:

FWIW city municipalities in the States often use phosphates in tap water, especially during the fall and spring. It's not unusual for P04 out of the tap to run up to 5.0.

Mine is 2-3ppm on average.

Roan

Wow, learn something new every day, any idea why?