Algae eaters keep dying WHY?!?!?
- Thread starter aviva90
- Start date
but any more opinions on my initial question? why my CAE died literally over night? I know the owner of the store and he is very good, doesn't sell sick fish as he is a fish hobbyist himself and would never sell fish he knew was sick... =[ i really want one of those guys but i'm afraid of another one dying
Cherry barbs. The males have a really lovely red color and are fairly good schoolers. Most schoolers spread out in smaller tanks, especially if there is not a predator fish to make them feel somewhat insecure and thus school together for protection. For the 15g with 2 cories, I'd go with 6 for now. If you plan on moving them to the 30g also, you could get 6 more and have a nice school. Or you could keep them in the 15g and just get 2-4 more for a school of 8-10.
Also, the cories would really appreciate a few more buddies. They are technically not schoolers but are schoalers and very social. They should be fine as a pair for the time that it takes to upgrade to the 30g, though. I'd recommend at least 6. Depending on what kind you have (and thus the adult size), you might be able to have more.
If you want a really good algae eater, I'd skip the Chinese algae eater. They get way too large for either tank and aren't that great at eating algae anyway. They also stop eating algae as they get older and become very aggressive.
Siamese algae eaters are the ones to look for. Unfortunately, they look a lot like CAEs, and the CAEs are often mislabeled as the Siamese. They would do okay in the 30g but not the 15g.
Nerite snails are a great option. They hardly have any bioload and can be in a tank as small as 2.5g. Plus, there are so many color forms and even spiky ones in several colors and patterns that there is visual interest too. They can be kept with almost any fish, excluding puffers, loaches, and any other snail-eating fish. You could have up to 3 in the 15g or up to 5 in the 30g, more if you feed algae wafers.
Also, the cories would really appreciate a few more buddies. They are technically not schoolers but are schoalers and very social. They should be fine as a pair for the time that it takes to upgrade to the 30g, though. I'd recommend at least 6. Depending on what kind you have (and thus the adult size), you might be able to have more.
If you want a really good algae eater, I'd skip the Chinese algae eater. They get way too large for either tank and aren't that great at eating algae anyway. They also stop eating algae as they get older and become very aggressive.
Siamese algae eaters are the ones to look for. Unfortunately, they look a lot like CAEs, and the CAEs are often mislabeled as the Siamese. They would do okay in the 30g but not the 15g.
Nerite snails are a great option. They hardly have any bioload and can be in a tank as small as 2.5g. Plus, there are so many color forms and even spiky ones in several colors and patterns that there is visual interest too. They can be kept with almost any fish, excluding puffers, loaches, and any other snail-eating fish. You could have up to 3 in the 15g or up to 5 in the 30g, more if you feed algae wafers.
Almost forgot to answer your actual question, heh. I'm not sure what would have caused it. Shock could certainly be a factor. If he was recently shipped to the store and then acclimated to the store tanks and then right away to another new tank--yours, that would be a lot of stress on him in a short period of time. Plus, the fluctuating pH from adding the pH Up stuff would further stress him. It's often hard to determine the cause if there were no visible signs of disease and the levels in acceptable range (ammonia and nitrite were at 0 and nitrate under 25).
A pH in the "right" range is not nearly as important as keeping the pH stable. As long as your pH is not super low (under say 6.5) or super high (say over 8.5), the majority of fish will adapt and thrive in your tank. The exceptions would be very sensitive fish like discus (need very low pH) or puffers (need higher pH). Plecos, cories, tetras, barbs are among the ones that can usually adapt just fine. If you want your pH higher, don't use the bottled pH increasers. They fix it temporarily, but without the buffering components, the pH quickly drops again. Instead, you can add crushed coral or aragonite sand to the substrate or hang a bag of it near the filter outflow or even right in the filter if there's room, and that will help raise the hardness and thus help keep the pH higher and stable.
A pH in the "right" range is not nearly as important as keeping the pH stable. As long as your pH is not super low (under say 6.5) or super high (say over 8.5), the majority of fish will adapt and thrive in your tank. The exceptions would be very sensitive fish like discus (need very low pH) or puffers (need higher pH). Plecos, cories, tetras, barbs are among the ones that can usually adapt just fine. If you want your pH higher, don't use the bottled pH increasers. They fix it temporarily, but without the buffering components, the pH quickly drops again. Instead, you can add crushed coral or aragonite sand to the substrate or hang a bag of it near the filter outflow or even right in the filter if there's room, and that will help raise the hardness and thus help keep the pH higher and stable.
ok thanks for such a helpful extensive response!! i'm going to the store today can't wait, and thanks for the help with the pH! you're awesome =]
Test the pH of your tap water. If it's anywhere in a decent range (fish are very adaptable), don't try to adjust. Just do more frequent WC to help keep the tank stable. Stability is everything.
Don't know about the CAE's death (sorry!), but they're not really the best algae eaters and can get very aggressive toward other fish as they grow. The Siamese algae eater that is sometimes available has a dark spot on its belly and the stripe on the body extends into the tail. (I think. There's a great link that I can't seem to find today!)
The best algae eaters are otocinclus catfish. You need three min. to keep them happy, but that will work in a 15g if you supplement their diet with veggies. They eat soft green algae and brown diatoms super fast. Ask your LFS if they get otos locally or will hold them in QT for you for a week or so to make sure they are healthy. (Wild-caught specimens shipped internationally are prone to die because of damage during capture and starvation during shipping. Never let an oto starve! It loses a critical bacteria in its gut and cannot digest food properly so will die even after food becomes available.) They are just about the cutest thing in a tank, stay small and are completely peaceful. I can't praise them enough!
Don't know about the CAE's death (sorry!), but they're not really the best algae eaters and can get very aggressive toward other fish as they grow. The Siamese algae eater that is sometimes available has a dark spot on its belly and the stripe on the body extends into the tail. (I think. There's a great link that I can't seem to find today!)
The best algae eaters are otocinclus catfish. You need three min. to keep them happy, but that will work in a 15g if you supplement their diet with veggies. They eat soft green algae and brown diatoms super fast. Ask your LFS if they get otos locally or will hold them in QT for you for a week or so to make sure they are healthy. (Wild-caught specimens shipped internationally are prone to die because of damage during capture and starvation during shipping. Never let an oto starve! It loses a critical bacteria in its gut and cannot digest food properly so will die even after food becomes available.) They are just about the cutest thing in a tank, stay small and are completely peaceful. I can't praise them enough!
how many have you lost in how much time?
if the store offers fish replacement in 24 hours get a rain check and wait a week or so before restocking your tank.
if the store offers fish replacement in 24 hours get a rain check and wait a week or so before restocking your tank.
they already replaced the one that died in the bad before getting home, he was too stressed out or something, the one i had that died in the tank was the replacement...
and they were the first fish i've had in there in over a week because i let it finish cycling fish-less. the corys are doing jst fine, it was only him. i just did a water change and they are way happier, i think they are adjusting well
sounds like bad stock. Get a rain check...wait about two weeks until 1) the weak/stressed ones all die off at the store or 2) they get a new shipment
