Algal Turf Scrubber v2

[Sploke]

I just finished the (re) build of the ATS for my reef tank. I had built a prototype design that was running on my 200 FOWLR (which is now the sump for the 265) and it worked alright, but it was in a really cramped space and was very difficult to perform maintenance on. Consequently, it wasn't getting cleaned as often as it should have been.

I came up with a modular design separate from the current tank/sump which will make it a lot easier to clean, and is much safer than the previous design.

Here are the parts I started with - 13gal plastic trash can, some PVC parts, a 2x55w AH Supply light kit, a bulkhead fitting, and a pump (the pump pictured is a mag 9.5, I went down to a mag 7).

I cut a slot in the spray bar with a rotozip and cut two holes in the trash can with a hole saw - here is the spray bar in place:

I drilled holes in the sides of the can and used nylon nuts and screws to attach the light reflectors and lamp clips. I spread the reflectors a bit to widen the light coverage since the screen will be so close to the lamps.

I then used another hole saw to cut a hole for the drain bulkhead in the bottom.

I attached the ballast and wiring to the lid of the trash can, and drilled holes to pass through the lamp sockets.

Here is the whole thing buttoned up

I then built a small shelf over the sump. The water level stays about 2" deep in the bottom, just touching the bottoms of the reflectors and about 2" away from the bottoms of the lamps.

Inside with the pump running - these were the same screens I was using on the previous iteration, so they already have some growth on them. This is just after scraping.

 

[leocom2000]

Are the lamps safe? If water touches the lamps, will it blow up? )

 

[Haydn24]

Wow excellent idea but yeah, im worrying about the lights too... Haha

 

[Sploke]

The water stays about 3" below the bottom of the lamps, so they don't get wet. Its a 1.5" drain, so it would take something pretty serious to stop up the water and raise the level to the lamps.

 

[Haydn24]

I was thinking more the humidity, splashing etc

 

[Sploke]

Splashing isn't much of an issue, the water just kind of flows down the screen. There is a little bit, but its not as if the bulbs are dripping wet. The bigger problem is the minor drops that they do get, dry up and cause a calcium/salt scale over the bulbs. Condensation is an issue when the bulbs are off, I've been keeping the top propped up to reduce both condensation and heat. I think I'm going to cut a few vent holes into the lid.

 

[Amphiprion]

As long as the lamp connections are silicone-sealed, it shouldn't be too much of an issue. The calcium deposits and salt creep on the lamps are admittedly annoying, but easily removed.

 

[Sploke]

The lamp connections are not sealed, they are the normal AH-supply rubber endcaps. This is one reason why I wanted to use the CF bulbs - the end caps are at the top, almost above the top of the trash can, so they don't get wet at all. I guess I could seal them, but it would make changing bulbs a serious pain. I could probably wrap the connections with PTFE tape to make them reasonably splash-proof and still be able to get them off easily.

 

[Amphiprion]

Either way works, though I never considered using PTFE tape... The silicone isn't that bad, actually. When you tug the lamp to disconnect, the silicone peels away pretty easily (though I guess it depends upon how well the silicone adheres to the material in question). The same applies to standard-base lamps--a quick twist releases the silicone just fine.

 

[silentcircuit]

I'd just solder leads on to the lamps directly and coat them GARF style. Those guys are crazy.