(almost) newbie makes classic mistake - help!

I'm still doing 2 changes a day.

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I seem to have remedied the 'what to feed' problem - I'be bought frozen whole shrimp (instantly attacked by both of 'em), frozen whole cockles (as before) and frozen bloodworm (haven't tried those yet. They both have fat bellies and seem happy, they don't even bicker too much when feeding now.
Edit

What I'm not sure about is my food removal technique. I have been feeding them and removing any bits I can find with either a small net or a gravel vacuum. Its difficult to see all of the bottom due to plants (mostly artificial) and rocks (from old tank, provide 'nooks and crannies').

Also when they eat they are such messy little so and sos that the food ends up EVERYWHERE, also made worse by the output from the filters which rapidly distributes the bits around the tank.

Are there any devices that allow food to be entered into the tank in a confined area, such as a tray of some sort? My thinking is that they could feed on this and then I could lift the mess out of the tank! Is this realistic or am I getting them confused with the cat?
 
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There are feeding devices like you describe, but they really only work well with floating, surface foods.

Best bet is to get a tough loach, that's nocturnal. Not a fish you will see often, but he will be the one to come out at night and clean up the leftovers. Heck, even a raphael cat would work--well armoured, but nocturnal. Other options--bumble bee catfish (though I am not sure how well they will take the salinity), since they will burrow into the substrate and clean at night. There are several armoured fish that will thrive and act as clean up for the uneaten bits.
 
OrionGirl

Excellent idea! Is it right that the size of my tank is bad not due to the size of the fish (and therefore their waste production), but because of their need for a predator's space? In which case I could get a 'scavenger' fish without overloading the tank?

If I do get a loach (or 'whatever', I will do some research), should I wait 'till the tank has deffinitely cycled? Are they hardy, will the puff's attack it, will the leftovers be enough food?

I guess a lot of it depends on the 'to marine salt or not to marine salt' conundrum that I am now facing.

Incidentally I am not disagreeing with you OrionGirl, but you say that aquarium (or un-iodized) salt will not form brackish water. The salt I have (which is aquarium salt) says it can be used for brackish tanks (but not marine). Also the brackish 'expert' at the LFS said that marine salt was a no-no, and that aquarium salt was ok for brackish. I'm really confused!

Have also bought some 'coral sand' which I am assured is the same as crushed coral and have added that to my filter. Hopefully should provide nice hard, alkaline water. I will buy the required test kits and keep an eye on it.

Thanks again,
Ade.

puffdaddy.jpg
 
Yep, the size is based on the adult size and nature of the puffers. Puffers tend to be stingy about sharing space with highly visible fish, but lower key fish tend to be overlooked and ignored. You would likely need to provide some supplemental feeding, but that could consist of an algae tab dropped in after lights out. Definitely wait until the tank has stabilized in all parameters, and then make sure you pick a fish which can tolerate the specific conditions.

The problem is many people aren't thinking true brackish when they talk about what salts to use. Very few LFS know much about brackish to begin with, and tend to treat it as some compromise condition--like a FW tank that needs medicating. Brackish environments are areas where the sea and fresh water meet, such as lagoons, river mouths, ect. As such, they have much, much more than just NaCl dissolved in there, and fish that live in these environments likely adapted to the presence of those additional trace elements. Using a marine mix comes closer to duplicating the habitat since it includes those trace elements. I'm sure you've heard from people who say their fish has done fine in pure FW, or with a bit of aqaurium fish. Ask those people how long their fish lived. If it's anything less than about 8 years, they're fish died an early death, likely because they did not provide for it's needs.

And actually, for purposes other than creating brackish conditions, iodized salt is fine. The amount of iodine found in table salt is so minute that you would have pickled fish before they had any problem with iodine. Heck, many reef tanks require iodine supplementation.
 
You have me convinced - I will slowly add marine salt after next visit to LFS.

Test results are:

pH = 7.5
ammonia = 2ppm
nitrite = trace
nitrate = 0

I've added ammo-lock to the water and have kept up the twice daily changes.

They seem happy enough and have a new favourite food. Both of them go mad for frozen bloodworm, so I now have four frozen foods they will take eagerly. And when I say eagerly...
 
Hi all,

Recent test reults suggest that cycling is underway. Ph has remained at 7.5 for a few days, ammonia has been between 2-4ppm and nitrites are starting to increase (still below .25ppm).

They are eating well and looking happy enough.

Bring on the nitrites...

Ade.
 
Hi all,

Tank update:

The last couple of days test results show ammonia at 4ppm and nitrite off the scale!!

I have been keeping up the water changes twice daily (might increase to three...).

Also I've added ammo-lock to prevent (hopefully) the ammonia being too harmful to the fish.

QUESTION: Does anybody know if there is a product that would be suitable for de-toxifying the nitrite, or should I just keep up the water changes until nature takes its course?


I'm a little worried by the appearance of the fish now (tell tale puffer 'grey bits' on their sides / bellies), and whilst they seem fine this water can't be doing them any good.

Thanks,
Ade.
 
QUESTION: Does anybody know if there is a product that would be suitable for de-toxifying the nitrite, or should I just keep up the water changes until nature takes its course?

Yes. Salt.

But you're already adding that ;)
 
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