am i doing this right?

J

jparnell

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Aug 29, 2004
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Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Here's the story:
2 tanks - 20gallon with all my fish and some plants (with some brush algae). Not growing all that great, but I've just ordered a retrofit for the canopy so I can move to compact fluorescents which will help a great deal I think
10gallon with a couple of plants - growing very very well, as I'm using compact fluorescents in that tank

Here's what I've done so far:
- plants with brush algae - did a bleach dip, and put these plants into the 10gallon so I can get some good growth on them
- well growing plants in 10 gallon - also did a bleach dip (but much shorter - just to kill the snails), and put them in the 20 gallon - hoping now that there is no more brush algae in the 20 gallon

Now... the plants that are in the 10gallon - these are the ones that I hope I've killed the algae on, and are in the 10 so they can get some good growth back... There aren't any fish in the tank - although there is certainly fish waste - how long can I expect the tank to still provide sufficient nutrients for the plants? Have I done things right here?

Once I have the retrofit on the 20, I want to move the rest of the plants back in to the 20, and tear down the 10 for storage.

I just hope I'm on the right track!!!
 
Sounds like you are, but don't expect the 20 to provide nutrients for long (if at all).

-What's the wattage of the lights over the 20?
-Are you using any kind of CO2 or CO2 supplement?
-Have you read the Fertilization Sticky at the top of this forum?

If you are not using gaseous CO2, you'll most likely want to use a "supplement" like Flourish Excel. While not as effective as DIY or pressurized CO2, it can tackle long algaes and still prvide enough carbon for your plants. Excel is also good for tanks that are too small for gaseous CO2 (25 gallons or less).

If you want to use the Estimative Index fertilization method, the ingredients are inexpensive and relatively easy to find. You'll probably want to order a traces/Iron liquid mix like PlantexCSM+B, and http://gregwatson.com/ is a good place to get it. It's also a good place to get fertilizers that you are unable to find in your grocery store.
 
I know for sure that current wattage isn't enough. Retrofit will hold 55w bulb - Compact fluorescent

I am using CO2 supplement - Hagen CO2 - considering putting a second one on as well - haven't decided yet

I admit, I haven't read the fertilization sticky... will do that now. When I started the plants back in February, everything was fantastic and plants doing well - this is still a very new area for me.

I have plant sticks - fertilization sticks - one for each plant - supposedly good for a year? substrate is gravel - was informed it was fine for plants - it's fairly fine.

Have I done the right thing with the bleach dip approach? and switching between the two tanks until I get things settled again?
 
ok i just read the fertilization sticky.
I have a lot more work to do than I thought.
I definitely don't want to change the substrate though... I think I'll be stopping at the pet store this afternoon, and will pick up some supplies.
Thanks for the help!
 
Well, 55W over a 20 should do the trick.

Hmn... if you are using plain or Natural gravel, then you've done yourself a service with the sticks. Are they the plastic ones from Hagen (I think) or are they the tabs from Flourish? Either way, try very hard not to disturb them until their time is up. If tabs/sticks are brought up out of the substrate for long, they can possibly cause algae rpoblems. If you have the sticks, you WILL need to replace them about month 10. if you're using the tabs, they'll disintegrate about month 3 and need to be replaced. I know Len isn't going to be happy about me saying this, but if you don't have a rich substrate, tabs are very helpful. If you want to, in the future, switch over to an inexpensive "rich" substrate, look up Schutlz's Aquatic Soil at Home Depot ($7/10 lbs.).

You probably don't want to do bleach dips very often. It's better to have the plants outgrow the algae so that dips and/or blackouts are not necessary. And I can't really tell you anything bad about moving plants between tanks, I do it all the time. :) Just bear in mind that whatever algae is in one tank, the conditions are right for it to be in a nearby tank as well. That's why it's important to grow the plants well so the algae is diminished.
 
I especially have a problem with them in newly planted tanks because typically in those tanks there is a lot of movement of plants, which increases the tendency to disturb the plant sticks/tabs. Most newbies don't realize the danger of allowing an unfinished plant tab into the water table. They can/will cause major algae issues.
And when you take into consideration the fact that many of the plants used in aquariums uptake many nutrients right out of the water table, I find the tabs unnecessary for most applications.
If you are going to plant Cryptocoryne or similar heavy root feeders, and know that they will be staying in place for a long period, that's another story.
BTW, most tabs are viable for 2 - 3 months. Don't disturb them for at least 3 months.
I agree with Timmain with regard to your lighting. 55watts/CF over a 20 gal. tank will give good results and should not be too much of a problem to balance with plants and nutrients to start off with.
Also, Excel will do a nice job on many forms of hair algae, BBA included.

Len
 
thanks for all the help.
And for the tip on the sticks - yes it's the hagen ones - and I just realized they aren't completely under the substrate... going to rectify that right now!!!
Very much appreciated!!!
 
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