ammonia ??

Last I tested the ammonia (yesterday) it was about 1.0. I am using the Tetra test consisting of 3 droppers. My Nitrite was between .75 and 1.0 before my 50% water change this morning. I haven't tested anything since. For this i am using the 6 test quick dips! 50% water changes for 7 weeks (or 5) since i am already 2 weeks into this is a lot of R.O. water and expensive! Should I still feed the invertebrets as much. (two to three times a week) (Mysis shrimp)??
 
You'll want to back off on the amount that you feed and try to only spot feed. What was the ammonia reading before you bought the inverts? FWIW, it sounds like you may want to be cautious with the advice of your LFS. I would actually try a different test kit--i.e. no strips, but a liquid test. API liquid tests, while not incredibly precise, are good enough for the vast majority of circumstances. Give those a try and retest ammonia. Have premixed saltwater on hand for an immediate water change, as well.
 
The ammonia level was next to nothing. Several sources said that my tank had cycles and I could go ahead with the cleanup crew. Knowing what I do now I wouldn't have done this. Should the ammonia levels go down 8 hrs after water change? It didn't.
 
IMO I think you should try to take your animals back to the lfs, and get credit. Since you have live rock in there, that will keep the cycle going, but the die off will probably be too much for you to keep up with. 8 gallons really isn't much volume to disperse the waste your live rock alone will be producing, let alone the animals waste.
 
After another 50 % water change this morning my ammonia is around.75 to 1.0. Cup Coral looks better today. Nitrite is a little above the 1.0 level. Does this mean my cycle is underway? I live in rural Nebraska where the tap water is really good. (no chlorine and ph is fine) Any problems with using this vs. R.O.? It gets pretty expensive using R.O. for these 50% water changes! How do you spot feed a fire shrimp and 3 hermits? Anybody recommend a ammonia detox?
 
I suggest that you purchase an RO/DI unit to make your own water. It is much cheaper and easier to do and it comes in real handy when situations like this pop up. In any case, ammonia levels should drop instantly after a water change. If they aren't, then I would suspect the test kit.

IMO I think you should try to take your animals back to the lfs, and get credit. Since you have live rock in there, that will keep the cycle going, but the die off will probably be too much for you to keep up with. 8 gallons really isn't much volume to disperse the waste your live rock alone will be producing, let alone the animals waste.

This, for the time being, is good advice. Right now, do you have access to any other type of test than strips? Strips are almost always substantially off and can cause panic, which causes more problems than it can fix. Beyond an RO/DI unit for any future plans, purchasing a good test kit should be your priority. Unless you can get a second, good kit (again, API is relatively inexpensive and reasonably accurate) very, very soon (i.e. today), then you should relocate the animals either to another willing person's tank or back to the store until things can be sorted and you can ascertain whether or not there is a genuine problem.
 
I had a water sample from my tank taken to petsmart (not the fish store ive been dealing with) and they tested it and said everything looked good including ammonia! Maybe im misinterpreting the colors on my tetra dropper test. All the inverts look fine in the tank and the coral even perked up today. The nitrItes are at 1.5 ish and the nitrAtes about 20. Somebody give me advice on where to go from here beings im new at this. Am i ready for a goby or 2 or should i get another tester first. The fact that im seeing nitrates means i am cycling, right?
 
Get your own test kit first. Continue with the water changes until tests reveal otherwise. Your tank is still cycling and it is still somewhat dangerous for the animals. You may still want to consider about returning them or having them held until things are settled.
 
No need for "best," necessarily. As I said before, API is usually reliable. If you want better kits, then look for Salifert or even Elos. The latter will be more expensive, but are top notch test kits.
 
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