I have read about this method and might give it a try. Does anyone have any of these tanks running?
Anyone using Daina Wolsted method
- Thread starter lousybreed
- Start date
well, I don't have any to her specifications. I am not enamered with the look of the plants grown under those conditions. I'd rather do it the plantbrain Tom Barr way. with lighting, ferts, and co2 if needed.
RTR might have commented about the idea at some point but I'm to lazy to search for it for you
RTR might have commented about the idea at some point but I'm to lazy to search for it for you
Swimfins
This is as good as it gets.
I don't think high lighting, fertilizers dosed in ppm and co2 monitoring is the only way to a successful planted tank.
Diana Walstad has written a respected book on the science of planted tanks and monitors a forum in The Wet Thumb, for tanks of 'low maintenance'.
Also look here: http://naturalaquariums.com/ for some good info.
I'm considering starting up a small 10 gallon as an experiment using her theories. Its very interesting.
Diana Walstad has written a respected book on the science of planted tanks and monitors a forum in The Wet Thumb, for tanks of 'low maintenance'.
Also look here: http://naturalaquariums.com/ for some good info.
I'm considering starting up a small 10 gallon as an experiment using her theories. Its very interesting.
I think the real difference is what you want. Some plants and some fish are not going to live in your tap water. Is that okay with you? Or do you want the high red plants and or the soft water fish? I have grown plants and kept fish in room light with very little filtration at all. It is a very interesting challenge. No less interesting than the water chemistry of high light CO2 tanks.
You can shoot metal halide bulbs down deep into a tank to grow Glossostigma elatinoides or you can try and figure out if there is a place in the livingroom where you can grow Sagittaria subulata. It is all the same. Just another part of what can be done.
You can shoot metal halide bulbs down deep into a tank to grow Glossostigma elatinoides or you can try and figure out if there is a place in the livingroom where you can grow Sagittaria subulata. It is all the same. Just another part of what can be done.
Well, I certainly know that high light, lots of ferts, and CO2 are not the only way to go also
FYI, about 60% of my tanks are non CO2.
The method she describes works, I've improved on it and found the general rates of plant uptake.
I use onyx sand and peat/leonardite for the substrates, this is less messy and adds Ca, Fe and Mg well. It also cycles fish waste better than soil/sand substrates by having more useable surface area.
Dosing a little KH2PO4/SeaChem Equilibrium once every 1-2 weeks really improves the growth. If the plants start to get any holes in the leaves, add a little KNO3.
Adding the ferts is no different than addin gthe fish food, both are ferts.
One is for fish, the other is for plants.
They need fed different things than the fish for optimal growth.
Some hardy plants can handle fish food only(but the type of food matters also) and do well, okay etc.
But adding the ferts I suggested will improve the number of plants that will do well in a non CO2 tank as well as any existing plants. Sop even if you use soil that's years old and depleted, this will work well for you also.
The fert's are cheap and adding something once a week or two is easy.
Regards,
Tom Barr
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FYI, about 60% of my tanks are non CO2.
The method she describes works, I've improved on it and found the general rates of plant uptake.
I use onyx sand and peat/leonardite for the substrates, this is less messy and adds Ca, Fe and Mg well. It also cycles fish waste better than soil/sand substrates by having more useable surface area.
Dosing a little KH2PO4/SeaChem Equilibrium once every 1-2 weeks really improves the growth. If the plants start to get any holes in the leaves, add a little KNO3.
Adding the ferts is no different than addin gthe fish food, both are ferts.
One is for fish, the other is for plants.
They need fed different things than the fish for optimal growth.
Some hardy plants can handle fish food only(but the type of food matters also) and do well, okay etc.
But adding the ferts I suggested will improve the number of plants that will do well in a non CO2 tank as well as any existing plants. Sop even if you use soil that's years old and depleted, this will work well for you also.
The fert's are cheap and adding something once a week or two is easy.
Regards,
Tom Barr
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www.BarrReport.com Get the information
I have a low light tank that I rarely fertilize. It's a 25 gallon extra tall that has 1.6 wpg T12 fluorescents. Some gravel sticks, flourite/profile substrate, rarely add liquids.
Water changes are about every 3-4 weeks. Lots of easy plants like java moss, anubias petite, java fern narrow leaf, limnophila sessiliflora and crypts.
Water changes are about every 3-4 weeks. Lots of easy plants like java moss, anubias petite, java fern narrow leaf, limnophila sessiliflora and crypts.
thanks for the info guys, Tom i am thinking about setting up a system like her's and then learning from it and adjusting it to fit my needs, a 15 gallon experiment!
Good, I think you'll be happy if you are patient.
Realize that the ideas about algae limitation and some on nutrient uptake are not very supportable in the book, but get her book anyway.
You will certainly want to add lots and lots of plants from the start. This is key to a good start to any planted tank and even more so with these.
You can pre soak the soil for 2-3 weeks prior.
This will convert the NH4 to NO3. You can also boil the soil for 15 minutes which will also oxidize the NH4 to NO3.
This will have enough nutrients to get the tank started till the fish waste and perhaps a little dosing can take over and build up after a few months have past.
Regards,
Tom Barr
Realize that the ideas about algae limitation and some on nutrient uptake are not very supportable in the book, but get her book anyway.
You will certainly want to add lots and lots of plants from the start. This is key to a good start to any planted tank and even more so with these.
You can pre soak the soil for 2-3 weeks prior.
This will convert the NH4 to NO3. You can also boil the soil for 15 minutes which will also oxidize the NH4 to NO3.
This will have enough nutrients to get the tank started till the fish waste and perhaps a little dosing can take over and build up after a few months have past.
Regards,
Tom Barr
I do agree strongly with Tom Barr on the need for mineralization of the soil prior to use in the tank, by presoaking. I am not big on soil substrates in any case, but I would never use it at all without presoaking.
I admire Ms Waldstad's efforts in researching all the materials she went through in preparation for her book, but IMHO many of her conclusions are not justified by her citations.
I admire Ms Waldstad's efforts in researching all the materials she went through in preparation for her book, but IMHO many of her conclusions are not justified by her citations.
Is leonardite some type of coal/decomposted material? Where would you go about getting some of it?