I clean the filter pretty regularly. I wash the sponge and carbon and bio rings in tank water and wipe out the box. Pull the propeller out and clean that and the inside tube and then put it all back togeather. I do use a pre filter but took it off thinking that had something to do with it? It’s an AC 70 on a 29 gal but was thinking about dropping to a 50 Incase it dies on me again??
Aquaclear 70 sudden shutoff?
- Thread starter Nyk0nn
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I have a pair of 29s. One is filtered with an AC 30 on one end and a 50 on the other. The second is filtered with an AC 50 and a 4x4 inch 20 ppi Poret cubefilter. I have a 25 gal. with a 30 and a 50 as well. When it comes to heaters and filters I am willing to spend extra to have two of them. I usally get ones that are not enough on their own but more than enough for the tank. This keeps a failure of one of the two from being a major problem as quickly as when there is only one of each.
With your 70 you do have the option of turning the flow rate down. I sometimes use too large of an AC and reduce the flow. That gives me more media space without blowing fish out of the water.
Next, you di not need to buy an entire new filter. Only three things can break on an AC. One if the plastic box, intake assembly and lid. I have lids with chips I use just fine. I keep spare parts for my ACs on the shelf. Mostly this is an impeller or two and then a couple of motors. A lot of folks do not realize that several AC models use the same motor but with different impellers. The same goes for the intake tubes.
I have too many really expensive fish in my tanks to risk losing a tankful to equipment failure. So I have a bunch of spare parts. I have extra intakes and media holders for my ACs. I have gaskets and O-rings for filters, I even have a spare parts canister. I bought it for just that reason as they were discontinued many years ago but still run great.
I discovered early on in the hobby that two things happen when the stores are shut or you have to order something to have it yesterday (fish medications for example). First, essential equipment will fail- filters, heaters. powerheads etc. Second, you will discover a fish has become seriously ill in some fashion and you do not have the needed medication/cure on hand and cannot get it quickly.
I listen to the Boy Scouts' motto- Be Prepared
With your 70 you do have the option of turning the flow rate down. I sometimes use too large of an AC and reduce the flow. That gives me more media space without blowing fish out of the water.
Next, you di not need to buy an entire new filter. Only three things can break on an AC. One if the plastic box, intake assembly and lid. I have lids with chips I use just fine. I keep spare parts for my ACs on the shelf. Mostly this is an impeller or two and then a couple of motors. A lot of folks do not realize that several AC models use the same motor but with different impellers. The same goes for the intake tubes.
I have too many really expensive fish in my tanks to risk losing a tankful to equipment failure. So I have a bunch of spare parts. I have extra intakes and media holders for my ACs. I have gaskets and O-rings for filters, I even have a spare parts canister. I bought it for just that reason as they were discontinued many years ago but still run great.
I discovered early on in the hobby that two things happen when the stores are shut or you have to order something to have it yesterday (fish medications for example). First, essential equipment will fail- filters, heaters. powerheads etc. Second, you will discover a fish has become seriously ill in some fashion and you do not have the needed medication/cure on hand and cannot get it quickly.
I listen to the Boy Scouts' motto- Be Prepared
The AquaClear line is a very good line of power filters. But there is something nobody talks about with them. The impeller shaft is a user replaceable part you can buy all over the Internet and costs less than $10.00. The impeller shafts are made of stainless steel, and WILL wear our over time. When they wear out, then your filter will not start after a power outage.
If you replace your impeller shaft on a regular basis ( once a year, maybe? ) and lubricate the shaft and impeller with food-safe silicone grease, the thing will start up all the time.
The reason the AquaClear motor was so hot is because any HOB motor gets hot and cools by the water circulating into and out of the motor. If that water flow stops, then the motor has no way to cool down. If you start it up, and use something to force-turn the impeller, then it should spin up and you can re-attach the lift tube. It should cool down a few minutes after that happens. Once it's working again, I would recommend you replace the impeller shaft and lubricate it and the impeller.
If you replace your impeller shaft on a regular basis ( once a year, maybe? ) and lubricate the shaft and impeller with food-safe silicone grease, the thing will start up all the time.
The reason the AquaClear motor was so hot is because any HOB motor gets hot and cools by the water circulating into and out of the motor. If that water flow stops, then the motor has no way to cool down. If you start it up, and use something to force-turn the impeller, then it should spin up and you can re-attach the lift tube. It should cool down a few minutes after that happens. Once it's working again, I would recommend you replace the impeller shaft and lubricate it and the impeller.
While I respect your experience apastuszak, I've never lubed AC shafts in close to 30 years & many ACs. I have replaced a few Whisper impellers, but again, no lube.
I find that if the AC filter is angled slightly toward the tank during even slight power outages they tend to drain the filter box & need added water to get them siphoning again or even a full cleaning including the impeller. I may have "cooked" an AC motor (or maybe it was a Whisper?) 1 time after a vacation but usually cleaning & cooling fixes them.
I know I sucked up fine sand substrate 1 time & etched an AC magnent & had to replace the impeller, but as you said, it was inexpensive...& now I use prefilters & higher intakes.
I find that if the AC filter is angled slightly toward the tank during even slight power outages they tend to drain the filter box & need added water to get them siphoning again or even a full cleaning including the impeller. I may have "cooked" an AC motor (or maybe it was a Whisper?) 1 time after a vacation but usually cleaning & cooling fixes them.
I know I sucked up fine sand substrate 1 time & etched an AC magnent & had to replace the impeller, but as you said, it was inexpensive...& now I use prefilters & higher intakes.
I have had no AC filter drain back into the tank after a power outage. I had some power outages last longer than 24 hours and my AquaClear started right back up. I always make sure my AquaClear filters are level. I don't know if that makes any difference.
I know a lot of people don't lube their impellers and have no issues. But the impeller shaft WILL wear out over time. Lots of pictures all over the Internet showing that.
I know a lot of people don't lube their impellers and have no issues. But the impeller shaft WILL wear out over time. Lots of pictures all over the Internet showing that.
I think my experience with angling ACs toward the tank stems from bad angling toward the back away from the tank...& onto to the floor behind the tank. You know that angle-y plastic thing at the base that always breaks off?...at least mine always do...maybe I'm too rough? But it's never good IME.
I think it's my Rena canister filters I wish I could find the silicone lube for...I know I have some...somewhere... But I can never find it when I'm in the middle of cleaning...but not for ACs. A Q-tip impeller cleaning & I'm good to go.
I wasn't being critical of your way of doing AC things, just that my experiences over many years are different. I'm too cheap to replace every impeller every year without issues...& I've never had an AC shaft wear out...the plastic ends on Whisper impellers have needed replacing several times...& the AC sand etching I mentioned.
But that's why we post here, we all have ideas as to what's worked or hasn't in different situations.
A side thought, could it be hard water mineral deposits making the shafts die so soon for you? I've lived with pretty soft water the last 20 years...I don't know...just an idea...So many considerations that can effect things in different ways. When I lived in DE we had some limestone hard water! Your not that far from there...Maybe?
I think it's my Rena canister filters I wish I could find the silicone lube for...I know I have some...somewhere... But I can never find it when I'm in the middle of cleaning...but not for ACs. A Q-tip impeller cleaning & I'm good to go.
I wasn't being critical of your way of doing AC things, just that my experiences over many years are different. I'm too cheap to replace every impeller every year without issues...& I've never had an AC shaft wear out...the plastic ends on Whisper impellers have needed replacing several times...& the AC sand etching I mentioned.
But that's why we post here, we all have ideas as to what's worked or hasn't in different situations.
A side thought, could it be hard water mineral deposits making the shafts die so soon for you? I've lived with pretty soft water the last 20 years...I don't know...just an idea...So many considerations that can effect things in different ways. When I lived in DE we had some limestone hard water! Your not that far from there...Maybe?
It's possible that it's my water. But the shaft definitely wears out, at least for me. I've always had ACs that started out quiet and got louder over time.
You can't see the wear on the shaft unless you pull it out, and if you pull it out, then you need to put a new one in, because the pliers will leave marks on the shaft and it won't be smooth any more.
Here is a picture I found of some work AC impeller shafts:
I believe these are all AC110 impeller shafts.
But, as you can see, the damage happens below what is visible to the naked eye. My AC 70 shafts never get this worn. But they do wear out eventually and get pockmarked with rust. I think the AC non-110 filters have the impeller spin at a slower speed than the AC-110 does.
Most HOB filters I have used that have the motor on the outside of the tank, have the impeller and shaft as one unit. With Marineland or Tetra filters, that's what I see. The AquaClear does not. It has the impeller shaft in the motor.
Everybody's experiences are unique. If you gave AC filters that are a decade old, then I would say it's worth looking at the impeller shaft. Replace the one in your oldest filter and see what it looks like. If it was fine, then you're only out $6.00 and can leave all your other filters alone. If it's worn and you have Aquaclears, then you can set up a maintenance schedule for the others.
You can't see the wear on the shaft unless you pull it out, and if you pull it out, then you need to put a new one in, because the pliers will leave marks on the shaft and it won't be smooth any more.
Here is a picture I found of some work AC impeller shafts:
I believe these are all AC110 impeller shafts.
But, as you can see, the damage happens below what is visible to the naked eye. My AC 70 shafts never get this worn. But they do wear out eventually and get pockmarked with rust. I think the AC non-110 filters have the impeller spin at a slower speed than the AC-110 does.
Most HOB filters I have used that have the motor on the outside of the tank, have the impeller and shaft as one unit. With Marineland or Tetra filters, that's what I see. The AquaClear does not. It has the impeller shaft in the motor.
Everybody's experiences are unique. If you gave AC filters that are a decade old, then I would say it's worth looking at the impeller shaft. Replace the one in your oldest filter and see what it looks like. If it was fine, then you're only out $6.00 and can leave all your other filters alone. If it's worn and you have Aquaclears, then you can set up a maintenance schedule for the others.
