Aquasafe and ammonia

NotGumbel

NotGumbel

The Dude
Nov 5, 2004
216
0
0
Elkins, WV USA
My 20g goldfish tank has the following readings:
  • Ammonia - 1.0
  • NitrItes - 0.0
  • NitrAtes - 5.0
  • pH - 7.0
  • Phosphates - 1.0
These are from Aquarium Pharmaceuticals' test kits.

Ammonia, of course, should be 0, which is my reason for posting.

One post seemed to suggest that, depending on whether tap water contains chlorine or chloramine, that Aquasafe may cause a higher ammonia level for how it binds chlorine/chloramine (http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59848).

The tank did not get its weekly change for 2 weeks in a row, due to health problems for me. Starting this past Monday, I've been doing 20% water changes, and the ammonia has dropped from 2.0 to 1.0. Historically, high ammonia has not been a problem.

Since nitrItes are 0, I'm wondering whether the ammonia reading is at least in part due to having added AquaSafe? I have adequate filtration, and the gravel bed has been vacuumed with each water change. Of course I realize the waste generated by the tank inhabitants, so I'm not looking to point blame elsewhere for the ammonia reading.

FWIW the goldfish are getting a 29g in the near future, for cleanliness, stability, and swim room :)

Thanks in advance,
Bryant
 
If your tank is properly cycled, you should always read "0" ammonia.
I've never had an issue with AquaSafe over two years. Unfortunately, I don't know if there is chloramine in my tap water.

Two weeks w/o a water change could have caused a spike, but we'd need to know how old the tank is and what sort of filtering you use (just 2 bettas in a 20g? That's not a lot of bio-load.)
 
Galaxie said:
If your tank is properly cycled, you should always read "0" ammonia.
I've never had an issue with AquaSafe over two years. Unfortunately, I don't know if there is chloramine in my tap water.

Two weeks w/o a water change could have caused a spike, but we'd need to know how old the tank is and what sort of filtering you use (just 2 bettas in a 20g? That's not a lot of bio-load.)
Click to expand...

The tank has been up and running since March 2004. Filtration is a Penguin 330 w/biowheels, and polyfilter added to remove phosphates.

Ammonia has not previously been an issue.

There are 2 goldfish in the 20 gal; the betta is in his own 5g :)

Thanks!
Bryant
 
The tank has been up and running since March 2004. Filtration is a Penguin 330 w/biowheels, and polyfilter added to remove phosphates.

Ammonia has not previously been an issue.

There are 2 goldfish in the 20 gal; the betta is in his own 5g

Thanks!
Bryant
Click to expand...

unless something recently has been changed, Or the bio-wheel has somehow been compromised, I would guess at a faulty ammonia test kit.
Bottom line is bio-wheels are capable of handling huge loads, and they are positioned in an area that meets every requirement of the bacteria. I can't see ammonia reaching detectable levels in that set-up. I could be wrong, but I have handled far higher bio-loads on many occasions with a wheel. I'd at least have my test kit verified by comparing it to an outside source. Additionally if ammonia added via chloramine breakdown was the issue, it would be there immediatly following the water change and dissapear pretty quickly. So going two weeks without a water change may cause excessive nitrate reading, or other issues but would not tend to lead to an ammonia spike.
Heavy bio-loads will only show ammonia if the capabilities of the bio-filter are exceeded. Even two goldfish heavily fed are not going to exceede the capabilities of a bio-wheel IME.

The only other possibility I can think of is that you had a Ph crash during the time of reduced water changes and killed off you bio-filter. I would think though that you would have seen far greater ramifications than the ammonia readings. If you Ph really is that low, and is not being altered by some outside means it is cause for concern long term. and could crash quickly if you miss maintenance. I really don't think the tank would crash without some other big sign occuring though.
Dave
HTH
Dave
 
Update: today ammonia is .25, without any intermediate water changes.

Seems like the tried & true "change water repeatedly til things change for the better" method has worked well.

Before I stock up on a new bottle of Aquasafe, I'm going to check with the local water dept and ask about their chlorine/chloramine situation, and perhaps get another product for water treatment. Just in case.

Bryant
 
Bryant,
Check the manufacturing date on your Aquarium Pharm. bottles. For example, at the top it'll say:

LOT NO: 27A0406

The last four digits are the month and year they will expire.

There's a thread about this in the Aquatic Plants forum: http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59869

Just want to be sure you're getting the right readings. Dunno if an "expired" test kit would be accurate or not, but it doesn't hurt to be sure.

Roan
 
you can easly just get a small bottle of stress coat an see if you have the same problem with it.
 
I started using PRIME because it treats the amonia as well as dechlorinates your water.
 
None of product out of the market that I know of actually convert chloramine to ammnia. What most of the product including Aquasafe does is simply detoxify the chloramine and chlorine in the water.

I believe your NH3 spike could have being due to the fact that you didn't change your water. When a tank is established, certtain bioload is established. If this is reached or exceeded for some reason, your filter will take some time to established new bioload limit.

Rohn
 
AlbinosRule said:
I started using PRIME because it treats the amonia as well as dechlorinates your water.
Click to expand...
Be carefull when using that because it can starve the bactera in your tank and when it wares off you can get an ammonia spike
 
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