attempts to remove green hair algae

R

resk

Just Relax
May 31, 2003
85
0
0
46
tx
www.neverwill.net
i have so far been unsuccesful at removing the rapidly growing green hair algae.

my tank isn't overstocked and i don't overfeed

i made the conclusion that the tap water has a high level of phosphates

but even mixing the tap with 1/2 to 3/4 RO water, the green algae is still growing quickly.

i've also got "phosguard" in the filter, but it only had an effect for about 1 week

this algae is getting to me

what should i try next ?
 
water

dGH - 6
KH - 5
PH - 7.0
Amm. - 0
( i dont have nitrate test )
Nitrite - 0

Phosphates - 0 - .25 ?

The phosphate test kit makes it very hard to tell if the color is 0 or .25, or somewhere in between.

The hair algae is multiplying daily, this stuff is so long.

In 2 days it has connected from opposite sides of the tank.

I am suprised the phosphates were not high, it makes determining the problem more difficult
 
more info on the tank

I checked the phosphates from two sources, the RO water and the tank water.

The results are exactly the same - 0 ppm

The tank is healthy, the fish are happy.

I do reconstitute my RO with tap, this gives me a dGH of 4.

I have to add KH, and this is currently 5 dKH

This tank is 37 gallons, once a week I replace 5 gallons using the above method.

Lights:
130 watt Power compact 10,000k
go on at 11am, go off at 10pm

The filter is an eheim 2213 classic, I currently have phosguard placed between the two 'course filter' pads

I am using a high tech C02 setup.
This runs 24/7, because I found the PH swing is reduced to 1-1.5 compared to 2-3.5 when I turn the tank off at night.

This tank is stocked with:
24 neons
2 half dollar sized angels
2 red-eye tetras
1 syndontis cat

I dont know the names of my plants, I just went to the shop and bought as many as I could afford.

Here is a picture of the tank a week after planting:

http://aaron.neverwill.net/photos/2003-9/img_0739.jpg

These plants have all grown significantly, but I wonder if I have too few of them and as a result get the hair algae.
 
blackout phase

as a last ditch effort, I placed a towel around the tank and will leave the lights of for 72 hours

the hair algae is showing no signs of retreating, what can it be living on if there are no phosphates ??
 
This is probably going to just kill you, but the algae is probably the result of NO PHOSPHATES! A well running healthy planted tank will need phosphates, although in small amounts. You need your nitrates to be between 5 and 10ppm and the phosphates between .2 to .5ppm (and even a max of 1.0ppm is OK in an algae free tank). Your lack of phosphates may be giving the algae the upper hand in using the out-of-balance nutrients. Blackout periods are best saved for greenwater algae (pea-soup). You also have enormous amounts of light over that tank, and in the wrong spectrum, to boot!:( While your spectrum will work for plants, and it shouldn't be a big problem considering the problem is not that you don't have enough light, but that you have maybe too much light! Are you adding, and how much of N-P-K as well as micro-nutrients. N-P-K is: Nitrogen, Phosphate, Potassium.....so as you can tell these three "macro" nutrients are necessary for plant growth (notice phosphate).

Another issue not related to algae that strikes my attention is your pH swings.....WHOOOAAAHHH! 1.0 to 1.5 is still a HUGE swing, not to mention when you turn off your CO2. I'd try aiming your filter return pipe a little more up at the water surface. There is no problem with water surface movement, just as long as it's not rippling more than slightly, and not having surface breakage (bubbles popping/splashes). Mine doesn't move more than about .2 morning to evening. I'm sure you can get yours to a more stable level, such as .5 TOPPS! Even if you end up using more CO2 due to the extra movement, it's better than your erradic pH now! Since you have a "high tech CO2 System", you should have little problems adjusting to keep the C02 levels at decent levels (25 - 30ppm all day). I wish the best for you on this tank and the algae infestation. Just look at the "sticky" at the top of this forum for appropriate levels of each nutrient, and keep things in that range. Be patient, and let things slowly balance in your favor. Buy test kits if you don't have them now. You will need a minimum of pH, KH, Nitrate, and Phosphate kits.
 
ah

thanks,

i will double check the ph swing, like you said the c02 makes it easy to prevent this. if i need to i will increase the KH / c02

as long as the 10k spectrum isn't the leading cause for the algae, i would like to stick with the bulbs. they are a little pricey and if they get the job done for a year, i am happy with that

i will start adding these micro/macro nutrients and trace elements. in terms of iron, i believe since the substrate is pure flourite there should be ample iron for the plants.

i am also going to add a herd of clown loaches to the bottom. maybe this will help foster the nitrates / phosphates levels
 
Nitrates are easy to foster just by feeding the fish, but Phosphates are a bit trickier. I'd look at the ingredients on the food, and look for one that adds them.

Personally, I use Enema bottles and just add a few drops. Most people use Fleet Enema, but I use Equate Enema (cheaper, same ingredients). A few bucks will last many years.
 
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