Auto top off unit questions...

[mikelush78]

ok I am now thinking for a top of unit for my 90 gallon reef that i just built. Not sure how they work so I got some questions.

First off can anyone recommend a good one for a good price... I am not cheap but don’t want to pay lots and lots either (but I like quality) any suggestions?

I guess my questions is i would have to have the floating valve in the sump and set it up when my pump in my sum is working. I say this because when my sum pump is on my sump lowers about 4". so I would have to figure out when the pump is running, the point at which i want water to be pumped into the sump and the point in which I want it to stop? is that right? Also if I have my ro-di unit hooked up in the basement... can I run a long blue line to the sump and have one of those auto top off units that turns the ro-di unit out flow on and off? will the ro-di unit hold pressure like that? have the blue line go up to the next level and over about 20'?

It would be best to have the top off in the basement is all... Any ideas?

 

[burban94]

I can't help you with your RODI problem in that I have never used one :huh: , hopefully someone will chime in and be able to help you out. Now as far as the topoff goes I may be of some help. Simply put just DIY it, it will be cheaper than buying a store bought unit. I slappped mine together in about 20mins once I had everything together. My parts list is as follows:
[1] 24v ac relay switch
[1] Ac adapter [9v in my case, up to a 24v adapter will work also]
[1] extension cord
[1] float switch
[1] powerhead, or water pump [whichever is needed]
[1] casing for float switch [a camera film case worked perfect for me]
assorted wire connectors, electric tape, zip ties etc.
spare tank, bucket etc. to hold water
the usual flexible tubing

Most of the parts on this list you may already have lying aroung minus the relay switch with should be found at Radio Shack or some sort of electronics place quite easily.
NOTE: BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN WORKING WITH ELECTRICTY, IF YOU DON'T KNOW OR TRUST YOURSELF WITH ELECTRICTY DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS PROJECT!!!!
Didn't want to scare you away fron this as it is quite easy to do, but I just had to state the obvious.
The two wiring diagrams say it all the 240v in side plugs into your wall outlet or strip and the 240v out is where your pump plugs in , pretty much all that is left is to run your tubing from your pump to your sump and your all set. [my topoff bucket is about 4ft from my sump, and works perfect every time.

 

[fsn77]

A RO/DI unit won't push water up hardly at all (maybe a couple of inches, but even that typically isn't recommended).

Are you saying that when your return pump is turned off, the water level in your sump rises 4"? As in, that's how much water drains back into the sump from your plumbing and the little bit that continues to drain from the main tank before the water level stabilizes?

 

[burban94]

Oh btw, since I had to buy the extension cord, and misc. parts this DIY cost me appx. $15, and it's been up and running for about 2mos. now with no problems at all. 80g bowfront w/ 20g long sump, a 5g bucket lasts me about a week before I have to refill it. Hope this helps you out!!

 

[SaltTinker]

I like the Kent Marine Float Valves. I use two on different systems.

Drill a hole in your sump and position the valve where you want the water line to go. It is adjustable.

Run ice machine tubing to the back of the valve and the other to a water source. This is a gravity feed system, when the water in the sump goes down water enters the valve and keeps the level constant. You will want to keep the water line below where any additional water from the tank (When the power goes out) and not overflow the sump. The water source needs to be abve the top of the valve. I use a 5g bucket, drilled a hole in the side near the bottem, used a hotglue gun to seal the hole inside and out and its been working for 10 years now.

I have two 40 gallon brute plastic garbage cans on wheels feeding the makeup on my 180. I have the tubing submerged and coming over the side without drilling any holes. Taking all of the air out of course before hooking it up. I have a hose with a siphon keeping the water level the same in both cans.

I wouldn't hook your ro to the valve, since you would make alot of waste water when the valve is closed. Just make enough to refill the makeup water source.

The beauty of this system is no electricity and a slow steady stream for makeup water. A pump would change the salinity too much for me.

SaltTinker