http://waynesworldangelfish.com/automated_water_changes.htm
I'll be happy to answer anyones questions regarding this article.
-Wayne
I'll be happy to answer anyones questions regarding this article.
-Wayne
Automated water changes
- Thread starter WaynesWorld
- Start date
Very nicely done Wayne,looks like a good job.
I've only done single-tank automatic changes with the Meridian autochanger to date, but have been planning for ages to set a more complete system.
Carbon filtration will remove chloramines if the flow is low. I've gone up to 4 gallons per hour with full removal. My filters were different than the ones you used, but it should be testable on any comparable system. I had a bleed port (simple ball valve teed into the line, catch the samples in a plastic glass for testing) plumbed in between the two carbon filters, and tested the first filter output periodically. When breakthrough was seen from the first filter, discard that cartridge and move the fiter from housing #2 up to the #1 housing. In this way you always have the freshest cartridge in the last (critical) position. My water usage was not that great, only 12-16 gallons per day, so the cartridges lasted many months.
Part of my hesitation to plumb in this house is lack of a floor drain, I would have to use the sump technique as you have. Have you been fully satisfied with its function? Have you thought about backing it up?
I've only done single-tank automatic changes with the Meridian autochanger to date, but have been planning for ages to set a more complete system.
Carbon filtration will remove chloramines if the flow is low. I've gone up to 4 gallons per hour with full removal. My filters were different than the ones you used, but it should be testable on any comparable system. I had a bleed port (simple ball valve teed into the line, catch the samples in a plastic glass for testing) plumbed in between the two carbon filters, and tested the first filter output periodically. When breakthrough was seen from the first filter, discard that cartridge and move the fiter from housing #2 up to the #1 housing. In this way you always have the freshest cartridge in the last (critical) position. My water usage was not that great, only 12-16 gallons per day, so the cartridges lasted many months.
Part of my hesitation to plumb in this house is lack of a floor drain, I would have to use the sump technique as you have. Have you been fully satisfied with its function? Have you thought about backing it up?
Hi RTR,
I have been fully satisfied with my drain method and even more if I had a drain in the floor.
Not sure what you mean by backing it up. I did just replace the sump after 18 months of service as "preventive" maintenance.
-Wayne
I have been fully satisfied with my drain method and even more if I had a drain in the floor.
Not sure what you mean by backing it up. I did just replace the sump after 18 months of service as "preventive" maintenance.
-Wayne
Sorry, but I meant exactly what you thought I meant - backup as possible anti-failure insurance. I was considering a second tank, tub, or bucket behind the primary with a backup pump - just in case. I would like running the waste water through the wall to "rain barrels" out back so that I could utilize the waste water also. Currently I just am keeping the septic field well flushed.
With my single tank setup, it was no big deal to contain a day's water. For multiple tanks, it is potentially a big deal.
We can't, or shouldn't, do floor drains - this is a radon area, the pre-construction tests were marginal. We had the abatement piping, etc. laid down before the house went up, but they suggested we not use any floor drains to dry wells or seepage pits. We've never had any positives since we built, but we also have no drains other than the septic system.
With my single tank setup, it was no big deal to contain a day's water. For multiple tanks, it is potentially a big deal.
We can't, or shouldn't, do floor drains - this is a radon area, the pre-construction tests were marginal. We had the abatement piping, etc. laid down before the house went up, but they suggested we not use any floor drains to dry wells or seepage pits. We've never had any positives since we built, but we also have no drains other than the septic system.
Hey WaynesWorld,
I am very interested in the overflow siphon you made. I have a few quesitons about it for you:
1. Does the flexible tube draw water from the surface or the botom of the tank.
-- If it is from the surface, how to you re-establish a siphon after it is broken
-- If it is from the bottom, how would the siphon be broken in the event of a power outage / sump pump failure?
2. I would like to acheive all this without the use of a submerged powerhead in the tank. Do you think this would be possible / easy to build?
Sorry for all the questions!! Thanks!
I am very interested in the overflow siphon you made. I have a few quesitons about it for you:
1. Does the flexible tube draw water from the surface or the botom of the tank.
-- If it is from the surface, how to you re-establish a siphon after it is broken
-- If it is from the bottom, how would the siphon be broken in the event of a power outage / sump pump failure?
2. I would like to acheive all this without the use of a submerged powerhead in the tank. Do you think this would be possible / easy to build?
Sorry for all the questions!! Thanks!
Hello Jhong,
Does the flexible tube draw water from the surface or the botom of the tank.
I have it set at about the middle of the tank. If I do a major water change I am careful not to go below the flexible tubes input.
If it is from the surface, how to you re-establish a siphon after it is broken
If the siphon is broken, you will need to use a small pump to get it going again. I purchased a small hobby pump for under $10 just for this purpose. After a siphon is established, remove the pump from the tank. (this only takes a couple seconds) The siphon will never be broken from a power outage or sump pump failure.
Very easy to make this system work, with low maintenance.
-Wayne
Does the flexible tube draw water from the surface or the botom of the tank.
I have it set at about the middle of the tank. If I do a major water change I am careful not to go below the flexible tubes input.
If it is from the surface, how to you re-establish a siphon after it is broken
If the siphon is broken, you will need to use a small pump to get it going again. I purchased a small hobby pump for under $10 just for this purpose. After a siphon is established, remove the pump from the tank. (this only takes a couple seconds) The siphon will never be broken from a power outage or sump pump failure.
Very easy to make this system work, with low maintenance.
-Wayne
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Thanks for the reply Wayne.
So how do you stop your tank from emptying/sump from overflowing in such a situation? I assume your sump has enough additional capacity to hold half of the water in the main tank?
Originally posted by WaynesWorld
... The siphon will never be broken from a power outage or sump pump failure.
Very easy to make this system work, with low maintenance.
-Wayne
So how do you stop your tank from emptying/sump from overflowing in such a situation? I assume your sump has enough additional capacity to hold half of the water in the main tank?
Hi Jhong,
I dont think you are understanding the concept here...
Think of this device as a hang on power filter like an aquaclear 300. If the aquaclear pump stops working, water will remain in the filter box from the intake tube siphon. The water line equalizes between the two.
Now, picture this.... The overflow device "is the aquaclear filter box" the black elbow at the top determines the water level.
Look at the waterline in the tank, it matches the black elbow. If I lower the black elbow (overflow device) the water in the tank will go down and equalize between the two. If I raise the elbow, it will either overflow the tank or when the waterline matches the elbow, drain out of the elbow, once equalized, the water stops draining.
make sense?
-Wayne
I dont think you are understanding the concept here...
Think of this device as a hang on power filter like an aquaclear 300. If the aquaclear pump stops working, water will remain in the filter box from the intake tube siphon. The water line equalizes between the two.
Now, picture this.... The overflow device "is the aquaclear filter box" the black elbow at the top determines the water level.
Look at the waterline in the tank, it matches the black elbow. If I lower the black elbow (overflow device) the water in the tank will go down and equalize between the two. If I raise the elbow, it will either overflow the tank or when the waterline matches the elbow, drain out of the elbow, once equalized, the water stops draining.
make sense?
-Wayne
Nice designs WaynesWorld
Do you know of any way to do auto waterchanges just using a sink?
Im planning on building a tank, and Id like to have some way to change the water thats even easier than using a python.
Do you know of any way to do auto waterchanges just using a sink?
Im planning on building a tank, and Id like to have some way to change the water thats even easier than using a python.
When I read this, python was the first thing to popped into my mind.
If you wouldnt mind a drain hose to your sink and a fresh water supply line out of your sink all the time, you could use the same system as mine, scaled down to one. You could set the tank above the sink drain "plane" and use gravity for waste water drain. This will eliminate the need for a sump pump.
You could use gravity for your supply also. Put a 5 gallon bucket full of clean water above the tank. Fabricate a valve at the bottom of the bucket to open and close. Using hose or pipe, run a supply line over your tank. Open the valve slowly until there is a trickle of water.
Use the overfolw device for drainage. You could set an empty 5 gallon bucket under the device and simply hose it down into the bucket. 5 gallons comming in, 5 gallons going out.
I place the fresh incomming water on the opposite end of the overflow.
-Wayne
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